Aradun

I'm currently working on a JFO Scout and picked up a Kolossus Coverall for the build so I decided to do a comparison review of the Kolossus and the Red Kap Coverall which I used for my ROTJ Scout. For a ROTJ Scout or JFO Scout you’ll need an undersuit (or flight suit). If you're looking to build a Mando Scout, you'll need a TIE flightsuit so there's nothing to see here. Move along 😉. Comfort and Fit The Kolossus is the winner hands down here. It’s noticeably lighter weight than the Red Kap. It has a fitted elastic waistband that provides a more tapered fit than the RK, and the arms are a bit more tapered IMO as well. The upper portion of the RKs seem to run a bit small requiring one to be somewhat of a contortionist to get it off and on. Whereas the Kolossus slips on with ease. Some will order the RK in a long version to avoid the acrobatics some, like me, require to get it over their shoulders. If you do order the RK, I’d advise getting a regular and a long in your size and then keeping the one that has the better fit, but keep in mind that if you go with a long and want to shoot for Lancer (level 2 status) that the long version may require a bit more tailoring. Both suits have double zippers allowing the suit to be unzipped from the top or bottom. Pocket Removal As for pocket removal, both have two rear pockets that need to be removed. There is also a small side utility pocket on the Red Kap that needs to be removed and a much large side utility pocket on the Kolossus that needs to be removed. This is easily handled with a seam ripper or if you’re careful and go slow, you can use an X-Acto knife. There is a minor issue with the utility pocket on the Kolossus though. The one edge of the pocket is sewn directly into the outer leg seam, so you’ll have to cut that side of the pocket as close to the seam as possible if you do not plan on opening the leg seam. Tailoring the Legs If you’re going to shoot for Lancer with the ROTJ build (there is no Level 2 for the JFO), then you’ll likely need to tailor the legs for a more tapered fit. Both suits may be tapered without seam ripping the sides or cutting and removing any fabric. I left the excess fabric and original seams on both suits when I created a new tapered seam. I ran the seam on both suits from the bottom of the side pockets down to the bottom hem coming in 2” (for a total of a 4” reduction in the leg opening.) You will need to adjust your measurements for a custom fit. The RK and Kolossus use different seams on their legs. Both suits use flat-felled seams that have been overlocked along the inner legs (picture the thick double stitched inner seam on jeans). This is fine because you don’t need to seam rip the inner leg anyway. The difference in seams is along the outer leg. The Kolossus has flat-felled seams running on the outer leg too. Not a deal breaker, but that type of stitch it does make seam ripping a little more challenging. Whereas, the RK uses a simple single stitch seam that has been overlocked, making the RK easier to seam rip for riding patches than the Kolossus. What’s overlocking anyway? It that fancy zig-zaggy stitch you see along the cut edge of the seam. It’s a special finishing stitch that keeps the fabric edges from fraying, but it requires a special machine to do it. It’s nothing to worry about for your build, but it can be a pain to remove when seam ripping a garment. The good news is that you don’t need to have it when you re-seam the leg. Final Verdict For the JFO scout, the Kolossus is my pick. There’s no tailoring required save the removal of pockets, unless you want a more tapered look in the leg, which will then require nothing more than a simple seam. I find that the elastic waistband provides a better more comfortable fit under the cummerbund. For the ROTJ scout, you can use either, but each has its pros and cons. Kolossus pros: lighter weight, more comfortable fit. Kolossus cons: the elastic waistband is more form fitting which may pose a challenge when attaching the mud flap (leather doesn’t stretch – go figure); the outer leg seam requires a bit more work to remove so that you can add those riding patches. The Red Kap pros: easer to remove the leg seam for riding patches; no elastic waistband making the attachment of the mud flap easier. Red Kap cons: smaller fit for the upper body; heavier weight material under the flak jacket. As I said above, have the RK for my ROTJ Scout, but if I had to do it again, I’d go with the Kolossus because I find it much more comfortable. There you have it. YMMV, but that’s my experience from owning both of these coveralls.

Christina your armor builds are pure artistry! You’ve got mad skills when it comes to weathering. Amazing. Simply amazing.

Awesome! Be sure to post pics and ask any questions. You’re in good hands with our armorers!

The grainy texture your getting might be a combination of your weather in Portland or being too far away while spraying. The paint is actually drying before it hits the surface, which is giving you that sandy/grainy texture. Old paint will do this too, but you’re using new paint so it likely weather or technique. The crackling issue can also be due to the temperature or spraying too much at once. Your best bet is to try spraying indoors if possible or if that’s not possible then waiting for ideal weather (50+ degrees and less than 70% humidity).

Awesome Andy! Congrats brother! Well done!

Looking forward to seeing some photos once everything is in hand. BBB Day is almost here!!!

Congrats Scot! Welcome aboard!

Don’t sweat it Mike. If they feel too snug or uncomfortable you can always remove the inner lining and you should be fine. Some who buy WW gloves do that anyway for comfort because the lining makes the gloves a bit hot to wear during warmer and hot weather.

That’s what I did. I used a paper template attached it to the bund and then dialed it in with feedback from the armorers. Saves a ton of time and material. [emoji6]

Awesome Mike! Looking forward to seeing those pics. Hope the soft goods arrive on time for you!

Ditto Scot. #4.

Good luck Andy! Looking forward to hearing some good news and you joining the ranks!

Mike, great observation of the 2x. I used 2x flat black over a 2x metallic undercoat for my DLT19X and as it dried it left a crackling effect in some spots, not that the paint itself cracked but that it “shrank” as it dried exposing the metallic finish underneath. A very light sanding with 400 grit and an additional coat (or two) of flat black did the trick, but you’re dead right when you say that this stuff doesn’t react well even with itself. So definitely do a test run before laying any layers down on a kit or prop.

Awesome brother! Congrats. I’m working on my JFO as we speak. Thanks for the inspiration!

BikerScout007 gave solid advice as always. Don’t obsess over getting an exact match. Most people won’t even notice a difference in shade or sheen. They’re just all to happy to have photo ops with cool Star Wars characters. My RS armor and bucket are different sheens and shades of white and they do that deliberately. The difference is very visible to me, but no one else seems to notice (or care [emoji6]).

Hey Arne, great job on those boots. Fantastic in fact. Love the tip on the baking paper too. Never heard of that one. As for crumpling of the boots, many will sew an elastic strap to the inside of the boot with the holster which wraps around the calf and it keeps it from sagging under the weight. I also have an elastic strap on my undersuit that is sewn in so that it fits under the arch of my foot. That keeps the pant leg from bunching up in the boot by keeping everything taunt.

Dude! Awesome! You’re nearing the finish line. Keep it up Arne!

Congrats Dave! Welcome to the ranks of Lancer. Well deserved brother!

As KOTrooper said, you don’t want to leave PLA unattended in a hot car or store your armor in a garage or area that can get hot, as it could cause your armor to warp. PLA is pretty easy to work with. I like it a lot, but I too recently started printing with PETG when I wasn’t paying attention and accidentally purchased a spool from Amazon thinking it was PLA. I gotta say, I like it. I’m still trying to get things dialed in with Cura to minimize the stringing, but it feels much more durable and because it needs to print at a much higher temperature it has a higher heat threshold and will be less likely to warp in excessive heat. I also find PETG easier to sand and finish than PLA.

Awesome Scot! The finish line is on the horizon! Can’t wait for you to cross it brother!

Check out Wally’s Custom Creations. He’s a member of our garrison and makes great custom and personalized helmet bags. I have one of his bags for my TK bucket and it’s great. https://www.facebook.com/wallyscustomcreations/

I personally find the Tapatalk App the easiest way to post pics to the forum. They appear right in your post so no need to click on links and you can do everything from your phone. The app is free. While they do put a limit on the number of pics you can post each month using the free version, it’s a pretty generous allotment, which serves most users just fine. I didn’t know about Tapatalk until a few months into joining the Pathfinders as a recruit.

Thanks Glen! I was looking a some 5mm blue led diodes but was uncertain if they’d be bright enough. I was also looking at 194 led bulbs with T10 sockets, typically used as replacements for interior auto and dash lights, but I’d need to rework the opening at the base of the tip to make that work. I’ll have to see what I can dig up along the lines of a cheap saber. I think my son has one lying around somewhere, if he can find it.

[MENTION]gmrhodes13[/MENTION] Glen, you used the sound board from a old cheap saber. Did you use the LED from the saber as well, or did you source it from somewhere else. Sabers and sound boards are foreign territory for me, but I’m looking to do a similar set up with my build. If you or anyone else has suggestions on what to use for a sound board and LED, I’d greatly appreciate hearing them.

Congratulations Takahiro! Well done!