Aradun

I concur with Chopper. If you’re interested, I did a comparison of the two in the thread below. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22827-red-kap-vs-kolossus-coveralls-a-comparison/ Owning both, I prefer the kolossus for it’s overall comfort. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good luck Mike! Solid build! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a link to the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/187t2wg19chznig/IMG_3628.mov?dl=0 I've got a few more little details to add, like the silver potion on the one black button and the copper band around the main top piece of the staff. You can certainly put in a usb port to make it easier to recharge the battery rather than removing the end cap, module and battery itself. I thought about it, but decided simple was simply better for me with this being my first time working with soundcards and running electronics.

The baton was printed without any modification in PLA+. I used a Dremel to create a channel down the length of the ½” dowel used in the prod shaft to allow the wiring for the LED to sit in the dowel. The wider notch seen in the photo below was to allow for the connection of additional wire length to the existing wiring on the LED. The other option I considered was using 3/8” plex which has the same diameter as the ½” dowel. The benefit of the plex is that it’s hallow which allows you to run the wiring through the shaft with ease. The only drawback is that the plex is somewhat flexible so I opted for the dowel because it was sturdier. TIP: Make sure to run your addition wire through the small hole at the bottom of the shaft and then through the shaft itself before laying it in the dowel. If you don’t, you’ll just make it a bit more challenging to run your wire through that small shaft hole after the fact. TIP: Make sure to use enough wiring to allow for your shaft to extend and retract. I snagged a soundboard mount for a light saber from Thingiverse and modified it to fit the Sabercore sound module. I used e6000 along the edge of the sound module to secure it in the module mount. Once printed, it was roughly the same size as the battery housing so I used medium 3M Command strips to mount the back of the module housing to the back of the battery housing. I added a piece of pvc pipe to the main tip piece and cut out a channel to make the prod shaft retractable. The hard part was trying to figure out where to put the speaker and the tactile switch. I took the end cap and cut off the end using a hacksaw. Once removed, used a 1” spade bit to create a shaft in the bottom of the end cap itself. The speaker was about 1 1/8” and I didn’t have a larger spade bit, so I used my Dremel with a sanding band on it to get the hole wide enough accompany the speaker. For the cap that was removed. I drilled fine holes to allow the sound to radiate through. In hindsight, I would have preferred to have printed the entire end cap at 100% infill instead of 20% to make drilling, gluing and set up a bit easier. It’s not necessary, but I imagine that it would provide for a cleaner build process. Then came the tactile switch. I was trying to think of where the heck to place this thing. I didn’t want to use a typical saber switch because they are large and I didn’t want to modify the look of the baton or do something that might render it non-approvable by my GML. I thought I’d place it underneath the T-shaped detail greeblie on the end cap, as it was the perfect spot. Pressing on the greeblie would activate the sound module, but then realized that there was no way I be able to slip the end cap back over the PVC pipe due to the wiring. Then I realized that the switch was the perfect size to slip through the “sound holes” I drilled in the cap piece. So, I created a channel to run the wiring for the switch past the speaker and up into the end cap. Once the channel was cut, I carefully hot glued the speaker into place about 3/4” from the bottom. Forgot to snag a pic of this one. Then the wiring was soldered to the switch, I inserted it into the center hole of the cap and hot glued the switch in place. e6000 was used to reattach the cut piece back onto the end cap. I’ll paint the switch black to hide it better, but this really is a perfect spot because I can activate it with my pinky finger while holding the staff. Kids will love it. Big kids too! Then it was pretty much connecting the wiring for the speaker, tactile switch, LED, and battery to the board using the diagram provided by Sabercore. Easy-peasy. I’ll see if I can get a video uploaded soon.

Inspired by @gmrhodes13, and his wicked electronic mods for his Riot Baton, I thought I'd undertake the challenge myself. This build used @MrPoopie's awesome JFO 3D print files. Thank you Justin! Supply List 22 Gauge Electrical 2 Wire 18650 Rechargeable Battery (Looks like a AA but it’s much larger) 18650 Charger 18650 Battery Clip / Housing Saberbay 28mm X-Bass 4 ohm/3W Speaker 6mm Brass Tactile Switch Lightsaber Soundboard Module – Sabercore Viridian and Crimson Pre-Wired 5mm Blue LED Diode Lights Electronics Soldering Kit (if you don't have one) Note: Some people like to use different colored wires for the speakers, LED, switch, etc. that are getting wired to the soundboard. I just used black and red for everything because it was what I had on hand. I know absolutely nothing about light sabers or wiring electronics. This was a first for me, but it was a relatively easy learning curve. The most challenging thing was to find a decent soundboard that wouldn't break the bank. Glen used the electronic from a toy saber he had on hand, but the only toy saber I had was an old one belonging to my son and it hand Luke's voice programmed into it. The sound module from Sabercore was just $18.00 so I took and chance and was not disappointed. The module is pre-programmed so you cannot modify it like more expensive boards. It has has light side and dark side options for sound effects, and includes the following options: low/high volume, swing sensitivity, strike sensitivity, and LED options (pulse, steady, etc.). What more do you need? This particular module recommends the 18650 rechargeable battery. Other soundboards may have their own power source requirements so be sure to note that when planning your own build. The LED light came with a resistor pre-wired so that was one less thing to worry about. The tactile switch is used to power on the baton and cycle through the various options pre-programmed into sound module. That's about it now onto the build.

That link Chopper provided is the holy grail for trooping. Those tips and tricks keep everything locked nice and tight. Things don’t droop. They don’t shift. Your kit is tight looking from start to finish when trooping. Best of all, they are pretty simple additions to incorporate into your build. I highly recommend it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks great! Excellent job weathering it too! I should point out that if you have to run this by your GML for approval you may get flagged for weathering on the cooling fins on the barrel shroud. They were rubber and had no weathering. There should also be no weathering on the butt piece and the grips. I can’t tell from the photo is they are weathered or not. The former was wood (I think the black ones were Bakelite, but would have to double check), and the grips were Bakelite too I believe, similar to the E11 so there was no weathering on those parts either. Not all GMLs are that picky but just so its on your radar just in case. Again, fantastic job. Love it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude, that is wicked looking! I love it!!! What a collection! Who did you use to have your stickers made?

Using the plastic from the face shield was genius. The finished result looks great!

This is great Andy and will help future Pathfinders when weighing options. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s great to see you back at it Jenny! Glad things are progressing for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A regular sewing machine will be fine. They sell heavy gauge needles which will help you sew things like leather and heavy duty Velcro, but I was able to use a standard needle for most of my build. You’d be looking a needles specifically marked for use on denim or leather if you want to get a heavy gauge needle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As an avid paintball and occasional airsoft player, the concerns I have aren’t so much from the bb’s doing damage to the ABS, as the environment doing a number on the ABS. From knocking that plastic against rocks and trees, laying on the ground, I’d bet you’d be looking at serious repairs after every outing. Thinking about the scratches alone make me shudder! The ABS might hold, but what about say, the rivet on your knee armor, or strapping if it gets snagged. That will probably be your bigger issue. And I envision your tank taking a beating too depending on how you have it secured. Heck, I have minor repairs after almost every few troops as glue gives way, minor stress cracks occur and soft goods get snagged and all I’m doing is smiling and waving lol. Not to discourage you, because it sounds like an awesome idea, especially if you have your hands on the Airsoft version of the E11, and let’s be honest…you’d look badass, but for the price of the armor, I myself would be reeeeally hesitant. IMHO doing this in TK armor is pointless. There is barely any mobility or vision as it is. You might as well stand midfield and let everyone have at you [emoji1787]. That being said, if you go through with this make sure to do something about those TB lenses. You don’t want to lose an eye, and you had better post some gnarly pics! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude!!! It’s great to see you back at it Brien. Looking forward to seeing you complete this. Congrats on the weight loss too. That’s a good problem to have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Matt. I had some time during a break in the weather last week to get things painted. Now I just need some time from work to get caught up on the build and posting. I’ve got too many irons in the fire at the moment [emoji6]. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dude what a difference. That KriptonTop suit looks way better on ya. Good purchase. Nice Pathfinders tat too (see what I did there [emoji6]). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Man you killed it! They are sharp looking and the Crowprops soles are amazing. Great work. Good tips for those who use the Crowprops boots as a base too.

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Did that too [emoji6].

Cass, for literally deconstructing this coverall and putting it back together fully modded to fit you, you did an incredible job!!! WOW! And you made it look easy too. Looking forward to seeing the rest of your work as your build progresses. Keep up the excellent work.

I recently printed MrPoopie’s inserts for my pouches and just insert them backwards. They are four-sided, front, bottom, right and left side, but the back is open. By reversing them, so that the open back faces the front of the pouch, the pouch maintains its shape, doesn’t sag, but is allowed to bulge in the front once stuffed with my keys, wallet, phone, trading cards, etc. giving it a more natural look. Of course if you go the JFO route, you don’t need to worry about pouches and you get your next seal [emoji6].

We’re pleased to have you at the helm Mickey! You and the entire detachment staff do excellent work on behalf of this detachment and foster an awesome environment for veterans and novices to gather together for the good of all. Sounds like an exciting year and I for one am happy to be a part of the best dang detachment in the Legion bar none!

I actually had them listed in my materials for my build based on suggestions by others, but the big guns around here like Retrofire, the DL, and others just leave their boots untied, so I actually do the same. The boots really don’t go anywhere, as Retrofire noted above. I will tie them when on longer troops, because I personally like a snugger fit when I’m standing for long periods. The laces are pretty easy to access and adjust even with the vinyl. You can try them with the elastic and without to get a feel for what works best for you once you have your boots in hand.

Fantastic news! Congrats Jorge! You put together an excellent build which will be helpful to future scouts. Well done!

You might also want to consider adding an elastic tab that extends just below the Velcro closure of your bund. The tab has hook on one side and loop on the other and get sandwiched between the Velcro closure of the belt. This will help keep your belt from sagging with the additional weight of the wire wrapped TD. You can see the tab on the left side of my bund in the photo below.