Digger

SO i have 2 different helmets I started with a beautiful Altman helmet, but later i bought an RS props red label, they both have been painted white. The RS props is my 'go-to" costuming helmet, because it fits my tiny head best, soits been seeing a lot of sunlight, the other one however stands on display, not in direct sun, but it's a year older. The RS props however is still spanking white after 50+ troops in it, whilst the other one has yellowed quite a bit waiting in the dark. Is this normal with RS helmets, or is some other force at work? Howcome it hasn't yellowed out yet? are there special white paints that prevent yellowing out? While you're here, do you have any other tricks to prevent our nice white armour to stay white for a long time?

when you drill out a rivet, check a tutorial on youtube/etc. Metal on metal drilling heats up pretty fast, that's not only bad for the drill, it may heat up the plastic around the holes, don't want that stuff melting ever. put a bowl of icecold water nearby and put the drilltip in it to cool down for a few seconds, whenever you feel it may get too hot.

They do look nice though. Do you think it could be possible to adjust the length yourself? the stitching on the backside would be the biggest problem i think

The one used in the (pinned) Boots tutorial is the Kingshow Men's 1366 Water Resistant Premium Work Boots, Which is available on the USA side of Amazon

Greetings Pathfinders! Let's talk homemade boots! There are quite a few armorers now that sell completely finished Scout Boots, but if you like to make your own, there's a task ahead, for it is difficult to find the right kind of soles, ESPECIALLY if you want a proper 1 colour sole! Sometimes i scour the internets for those proper soles, (the boots i have now are not good enough for lancers) and at some point i reached the end of the internet, which bummed me out. So if you happen to run into proper boots, maybe note it down. One example on the boards here is the water resistant Kingshow boots which can be worked with but those do not ship to Europe, so shipping causes problems for some scouts and each region probably has different options. In some cases it's cheaper to buy finished scout boots, than a timberland that has to ship across the globe. So... if you find boots and think maybe these could be used for pathfinders, post some info here. a picture, or link, or just where to buy them, maybe if you can tell which region they are available would be great. Even if you are not sure wether they are ok, post it here, others could check it out and leave a review. Edit: - Dart suggested Crowprops, they sell the whole boot, but also the shoe with a proper sole. Finishing that by yourself might cut the price by a $100 - Onkelpaschulke suggests Kappa Boots from Europe. good colour sole and cheap

I have tried to find the right soles for a long time, but ended up with 2coloured soles in the end. The good ones that i found were either heavy on import or not imported to the Netherlands at all. These are some boots i considered, maybe they send it to your country: -- Men's 1366 Water Resistant Premium Work Boots -- Dickies Fa9001 Donegal Boot

No idea if your plans are going to work, but I want to say your stuff on facebook looks pretty dang promising! Good luck!

I think it was Cheesewhoopy or Pandatrooper that showed in a tutorial he used the lace-ties like these, so I wanted to use those too. Weeks passed by and I didn't find them in stores as i was looking in all the wrong places, until suddenly I found them on the rainjackets I was wearing all along xD (I walk in the rain alot) It's a lot easier than having to tie the laces inside a boot. I hardly ever use them though. The shoes fit just fine anyway. So if you want to use normal laces and zip em shut with these things, just check your old rainjacket and/or certain winterjackets. They will be there.

Sure, the screen used versions may have yellowed over time, but if so, why has the depicted helmet not yellowed in equal fashion? But keep in mind what info you have here. An auction site that gets paid to sell the helmet has posted pictures of it, note that even though it's the same manufacturing company, the depicted helmet is not the same as what they used in the movies. but yes screen accurate colours are a problem in SW due to lighting. Did you know screenused R2D2's were off white? try submitting an off-white R2 to the droidbuilders

The connection between the dome top and the dome backside. the originals were connected by joining two side halves together, filling it and then painted. SC and some others (kropserkel too?) are different as they are connected top and bottom instead, easier to complete because the seam is barely visible and doesn't need filling per say... This means that many SC users haven't had to paint anything so far. Finding the right kind of pain and colour and applying it in even layers is one of the reasons people could have gone for the SC bucket in the first place.

Maybe... the knees might not be a mistake Remember how they first had basic stormtroopers trying to ride the speeder in the 80ies? It looks as if they might have turned the knees around on purpose, because it now ligns up comfortly with the speeder he's riding. Also, the helmet is not properly closed, the knees only have the bottom strap... or should I say top strap? In the concept art the cumberbund was also missing, but the codpiece did extend all the way up, here they are not visible, the cumberbund is there, it just sagged down as if it is too large for the wearer... Maybe the wearer is not the original wearer.

Doesn't Altmann make complete kits now? With all the stories about AUS shipping costs i would think it's cheaper to order it from AUS based guys... (Not saying SC is bad, i have a one-piece SC belt myself) I'd love to see a picture of a belt with those pieces stuck together with E6000 . Is the rivet in the softbelt behind the Thermal Det? if so you could just leave it, otherwise... well stitch it or relocate it.

Yeah don't worry about it. I found that trooping in cold weather makes my cumberbund look alot more white/blueish, while being warm it looks more white/beige.

Very cool review! The det tubing is an interesting move, the "cabled" tube we use right now is so heavy it keeps me from properly finishing that bit. I am just using the vacuumcleaner hose. It's still not there yet, but dang is it a good set i would say so! That holster and those hipboxes are now on my wishlist Santa if you're reading this you know where i live.

Awesome! And that's looking good. Do you remember when you ordered? (Maybe they are working it First in first out).

The one on the bottom is a swivel. This particular one is a german version typical for WW2 weapon straps/slings for the MG's and the Mauser, in varying sizes. i think a replica is the easiest way; there are alot of replica sites with costs varying from 10 bucks to 100, even on Amazon. Replica sets will probably come complete with belt. Shipping costs will likely make U.S. based options cheaper than German ones.

I have done only 2 troops yet, however one contained 10 kilometer 'fun' run in rain and mud. After the marathon i came home to find out one of my two flaps is slowly letting go already, but that is possibly due to not adding enough glue at the edges. I will add new glue there, no problem. I used E6000, but before i did that, i tried get hold of some shoe glue and went to talk with the local shoe repair shop guy. The stuff he used was something that comes in very large bins and stuff like ShoeGoo and BargeCC is a lesser version of it that is available in smaller cans. My guess is that Barge works better than E6000, but E6000 does the trick well enough.

That could be adressed by the way the bad guys are listed. If there's a list of vendors that have been blacklisted or banned without making a clear distinction of the reasons in that list itself. Instead the list starts with some sort of disclaimer like this: "the following vendors/traders are blacklisted or banned by this detachment or a fellow 501st group for a number of possible reasons, including (but not limited to) unethical behaviour towards customers, unethical behavior towards fellow vendors, fraud, not providing promised goods, breaking contracts.. etc" -Luke -Leia -Solo & Pets Someone could still go around the forum and find out the reason why the blacklisting occured, but it would require more research and time to contemplate. If i was looking for a smuggler, i wouldn't get a good answer in this list

The spanish GCO noted that some detachments blacklist vendors after recasting. I don't know which detachments that are, but maybe it's worth checking out how they dealt with such situations. Is blacklisting an option?

I don't think you have to rotate the greeblie on the TD, do you? The screen used TD's had them both ways, some facing downward and some facing upwards. Not sure what the rule on this is...

Just a thought: You could also (in addition to above suggestions) make the soft belt-part do the heavy lifting, making one belt that goes all the way around your waist. Attach the plastic beltboxes to the real belt with snaps and velcro glued to the inside of the beltboxes. The broken rivetholes you can put snaps on the inside and just for the looks add rivet heads on the outside.

Looking at the pre production picture with the hip pieces, that one has the V-curve, just like RS. But it also has the little V-cut at the bottomcentre of the chest. Now Pandatrooper said this in his SC tutorial: Note that the RS also has this little V-cut. When you do this you also create a more V-like neck. In the Not Flat picture, it seems as if the return edges were folded back less than in the original on the right, but this would also be a visual side effect of bending the entire chestpiece. Pictures of a side view are really missing. I am no expert but i am guessing, that the RS one has been fixed to match it's wearer. Makes me wonder how much of this fixing is done during manufactoring? We will see soon enough

I guess there's actually a choice now for gloves. From now on you can ask a biker " nice gloves man. RS or WW?" The Biker Scout 'soft parts set' includes an ... Imperial Hat... hmmmk. I ordered a red label helmet. Here goes nothin'!

looks fine, yes. If you're stil not sure, you could put another blue tape line on the south side and see if the distance between the two tapes stays the same all the way across.

hard to make pictures of all the black pieces x_x It's not screen accurate, but i may aswell show it: I found a bag of small parachute clips at a local store, they fit nicely. - Made cuts in the sides of the helmet for the straps to go through, just like Stroker did (except mine are not in the correct place, Stroker's slits are more screen accurate) - Then i took the chincup and cut out the two slots for the straps with a dremel. - Inside the helmet i put small patches of hook velcro (the adhesive kind), and i sewed loop velcro on the strap so it can be attached, moved and removed from inside the helmet. - The parachute buckle parts are sewn to the other side of the strap. I tried it without chincup, but that caused problems as my balaclava started moving around and sometimes my chin became visible, not cool!. Chincups are good. Not sure if a parachute clip is a good way to go though. I cant unlock it with my gloves on. Maybe i'll go the same route as stroker next time. Good luck on yours! Digger