TB-1599

After losing some weight and having to redo all of the soft parts. I decided to take the extra step....s and decided to take the leap for lancer.. Thank you for your consideration. *Note I know some pieces may not be sitting exactly right.* Helmet is a Krop Circle Armor SC Soft armor, modified Redkap, cummerbund,pouches,cod (home made) Vest Max's sci-fi creation shop boots (cant remember) gloves (cant remember) hold out blaster DVH Bucket For level two certification (if applicable): Chin cup is optional. No mesh material mounted in the ears. Details are the correct color and placed as shown. Gray 3M bolts or replicas of in the helmet. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm). No visible seams on the dome. - Optional but recommended. For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, the join around the top of the dome must be as flush as possible. Best practice would be to fill this seam so it is not visible. The screen used helmets did not have a join in this area due to a different construction method. Flight Suit For level two certification (if applicable): Real black suede square/ rectangular butt patch attached to flight suit at the rear under where cummerbund will sit and resemble those seen on screen, size will adjust slightly from scout to scout, but correct scale must be noted, no external visible stitching. Shoulder Armor For level two certification (if applicable): Armor is secured around bicep with a 1/2 inch (20mm) black elastic strap. Bottom corners are rounded. Optional: Affix top of shoulder bells to shoulder bridge loops using zipties. Upper Arm Armor For level two certification Film-accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor. T-bit circle detail piece faces forward on each arm. Armor is secured around the arm with a 35mm ( 1.5") black elastic strap. Forearm Armor For level two certification Armor is secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. Gloves Chest Armor For level two certification Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 40mm (1.5") white cotton webbing. Optional: 40mm (1.5 inch) white elastic material is acceptable provided the color matches. Back Armor For level two certification Back and Tank must be two separate parts, no single part back/tank plates will be admissible. Only 1, 4 or 6 stripes on tank are acceptable Bullet tank on the back armor has film-accurate greeblie tank topper detail. Tank topper is a separate greeblie to the tank itself. Tank topper is secured with single metal colored rivet in the center of the greeblie. Rear tank has properly placed pin striping and a single bottom attachment rivet. The red square next to the left side of the tank topper, as seen on the MotM scout exhibit, is not acceptable (the screen scouts did not have them). Blinking lights or LED's on the bullet tank are not acceptable. For level two certification (if applicable): The cummerbund is separate from the flight suit and vest. There is no visible external edge stitching on the cod or pouch flaps. Pouches must have appearance of being affixed to the bund as per the originals. (holes are not visible when costume is assembled) Bottom edge of the pouch flap must be less than half the overall width of the pouch. Pouch Size to conform to individual size; should fit in gap between chest armor and belt with minimal overhang. Codpiece must conform to shape pictured in the CRL or Costumes book. Codpiece must not have excessive bunching around groin area. See full body photos at the bottom Optional: codpiece is separate from the cummerbund and attached to either the vest or the undersuit. Belt and Detonator For level two certification Belt ideally should be made from a one-piece construction with no visible gaps, and not separated with fabric in between sections, apart from at the back where the TD box sits. Making any joins in a 3 part belt seamless, is highly recommended. Drop boxes hang at the correct distance from the belt. See full body photos Thermal Detonator end caps to be concave and not flat. Thermal Detonator must have visible black clips attaching it to the web belt, as seen in the film. Optional:- Thermal Detonator tube to be wire wrapped and not ribbed tube. Knee Armor For level two certification (if applicable): Knee armor has two elastic straps: The first is 25mm (1") wide and passes through the bottom of the knee armor. The second is 20mm (1/2") wide and riveted to the top sides of the knee armor Rivet remain silver in color. [*] [*] [*] [*] For level two certification (if applicable): The boots have slots cut into the heels and toes as seen on film. The boot sole is a single color with no visible stitching. Boots that are constructed too wrinkled (i.e not stretched/fitted correctly prior to gluing) or poor in appearance will be refused. Holster For level two certification (if applicable): Attached with four silver colored rivets. (See above photos) Hold-out Blaster For level two certification (if applicable): The scope has lens discs cut into the scope for a more realistic appearance. No decals representing cross hairs or similar. No drilled barrels. The screen used ones did not have drilled barrels. It looks like I posted to many pictures so here is the link for my full body photos.. http://imgur.com/a/ejNn0

Took your suggestion... How do they look now?? Lancer ready?

All of my laces are still in...

Thanks.. I am inching closer...

I think I am done.. Comments and Constructive crit always welcome..

I went and picked up the paint from walmart several people have suggested. Once I am done. I will paint the soles one color..

Again. I just wanted to say thank you for all of the help everybody has provided.. I finished cutting the grooves for my first boot. (I know I still have to clean it up a little. I just wanted to make sure they were ok before I started my other boot.

updated for finished soft parts.

Finally finished all of my soft parts.. I threw a few pieces of armor on just to check a few things out. I think just a few tweaks and I should be good to go. Comments and constructive crit. Always welcome.

Started cutting last night. (This is going to be a long process LOL.) Going to take some sanding paper to the grooves to smooth them out when I am done.. Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

You actually just named everything on my check list LOL. The Horizontal groove actually goes from where the Pen mark is to where the two colors meet. That will actually be the line...

Ok so I started the process of upgrading my boots. Before I start to cut into them. I just want to double check my lines. (note the darkened areas is what will be removed) any advise?

edited for updated first post.

Right I know they have to be concave. To me they look slightly concave. Maybe it's just the reflection of the light. Any particular method for putting the dents in??

I wanted to make sure these TD end caps are ok for Lancer status. These are SC endcaps. It looks like they are slightly concave..

Is the whole snout painted black and then the greeblies are attached right on top?

They are a standard size. You should be able to find them at Jo Ann's, Michaels, or Tandy Leather.

This...

That's exactly what they are.... Ok so hack off an inch...

ughh I was worried somebody was going to say that... That will have to be a final purchase...

I thought somebody was going to say that. My vest is on order. I am hoping to have it by the end of next week.

I have been wearing these same shoulder bells for a while. But no body has ever said anything. Now I want to get a definitive yes or no. Are these ok or should I shorten them? Ignore the rifle hanging off of my back.

mod please delete post

The rifle is a Nerf Acustrike Alphahawk. Here are a few more pictures. I attached the mounting bracket to the inside of my junk hump. sorry for blurry pictures my son was taking them for me LOL

Forgot to post an update. I got everything in the mail. All was perfect. There is a slight difference in the white, but it's not to bad considering they are about 10 years apart. I think after I wear it a few times outside in the sun everything should begin to match a little better.