stasz

I started to notice that ridge as i went through the multiple heating/stretching/pinning cycles, and made sure to stop short of it becoming very prominent. You can notice it just starting a bit on the right boot in my pic. Just watch how the vinyl is molding as you're stretching. I didn't do anything special, just kept an eye on it. One thing I wish I had done would be to swap out the original round laces with a flat, sneaker type lace.

I used the same boots. Pretty happy with the result (for my first attempt):

Yahoo! Congrats, Ronnie! Well done, Brother.

Thanks for sharing, Mickey! It's amazing how stuff like this still pops up after all these years. The internet is crazy, man.

Such a sharp lid. Nice score, Isaac!

Dude. It's so nice! What are the Altmann's made out of? It's such a bright white. I'm surprised how soft the rear indent lines are though. I thought they were soft on the KS.

I think your post is missing a link or pic.

pm sent And welcome to bs.n. Stop over to the Member Introductions and tell us a lil about yourself!

Thanks, Isaac! Dang. There's a significant difference. The Altmann's definitely looks better on ya. I think it's the way the cheek is sculpted, since it doesn't seem a lot taller. Great lid, brother.

Do you still have the KS for a side by side shot?

Score! I think this lid fits your frame really well.

Looks great, Brother! You might loosen the shoulder bell elastic just a bit to keep the vest sleeves from flaring out. I had to adjust mine too, having done all the strapping before I finished the vest. Nothing that would hold up approval I don't think - I'm a rookie too I totally second the top knee strap, whether you're going Lancer or not. It makes a huge difference keeping the knees up. Great work man. Congrats! (I know you mentioned it before, but that's an SC lid correct? It looks great!)

I let mine rest right on the "ledge" of the actual sole. Kinda hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like it could come down.

This is from the SC website. I'm not sure if it's their old or new knee, but it should give you a ballpark idea: I was worried about the boot height without the knees myself, but I ended up just going for it and luckily it worked out.

Man, the V3 is sharp! Did you get it assembled?

You bet! I would recommend sizing the stirrups standing AND while crouched or kneeling, and choose a measurement in between. I first measured mine just standing, and when I knelt down they pulled so tight one ripped off

As far as I know, the T-strap was something that SC came up with as an effective way to mount the shoulder bell and hold the chest/back shoulders together simultaneously. Not specified anywhere, just convenient. I talked to a guy who sewed magnets into his flight suit and corresponding magnets glued to the bell. But the strap at the bottom of the bell is required.

I haven't seen a complete beginning to end video for armor, but there may be one out there. Did you get the instruction sheet? It took me a little bit, but I was able to discern what was what with the parts diagram and a measuring tape. Re Velcro: "hook" is the rough side, "loop" is the fuzzy soft side. The shoulders, knees, and biceps have 1.5" elastic with black hook sewn to the ends, and attach to white adhesive loop inside the armor pieces. The forearm has 1" elastic with the same Velcro setup: (The top strap on the knee is 1/2" elastic that's riveted in place - not included in SC kit) The thigh boxes use the 1.5" white cotton (instructions call it "web", but it's the cotton strap: The back of the belt uses the 2" web (nylon type strap) with non adhesive white hook and white loop sewn to the ends: The chest and back armor use the 2" white elastic with white hook (non adhesive) sewn to the ends, and attach to white loop inside the armor: The shoulders use the T-Strap. SC instructions use the 1.5" black hook to make the strap, but I switched to 1.5" elastic with hook sewn on the ends. Either way. This attaches to white adhesive loop on the underside of the shoulders, and the inside top of the shoulder bell:

Looking good! I don't think it would hurt to take in the legs a bit. I took in the legs (and arms) on my redkap. I also added stirrups to help keep the legs from poofing up over the knee armor. Only thing that jumps out to me would be to level out your thigh boxes, but that's one of those things that'll need to be tweaked every time you suit up. Nice job, brother!

Check out Panda Trooper's build thread for great instructions on those shoulders http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781

I highly recommend the top knee strap. It made a huge difference with keeping my knees in place. Also, though it's not required, rounding the bottom corners on the shoulder bells really looks sharp. Nice job!

Looks like it would work. Seems pretty Comparable to a redkap. The applicable mods are listed in the CRL, basically removing the pockets, adding the suede thigh patches and thigh bands and mudflap, and possibly tailoring for a less baggy fit. The collar bit you mentioned is a modification for the mandarin style collar. Most troops use one of the removed pockets to make a flap closure something like this:

My application has been marked "Ready for Duty"! Just waiting for my numbers. Thanks again for everything, brothers!

I ended up taking in the arms on my redkap coveralls (similar to Dickie's) as well. About 1.5" tapering to 1". Think about where the armor elastic will sit and potentially cause the material to bunch up.

If you're going to Jo-Ann Fabrics, sign up for their coupon thing. They text you coupons and then they can just scan it from your phone at the register. New deals every week. Good deals, too. I saved a lot on this whole project with that.