stasz

SC or KS would likely be the quickest turnaround to get to you, as Chef is UK based and Altmann's is coming from Australia, but patience is crucial in this hobby and either of the latter helmets are well worth the wait. By the sounds of it, RS is finishing their pre order obligations and do not intend to offer the Scout Helmet again. All are approvable, and price will vary as well. There are a LOT of comparison threads and details in the helmet forum to help you make an informed choice. If you have the opportunity to be a Non Costumed Support (aka Handler) for an event with your garrison, you may have the chance to check some different buckets out in person. Northern Darkness Garrison covers Northern Indiana (obviously ) and Bloodfin Garrison is in southern Indiana. If you haven't, sign up for the Garrison forum for your region and say hello!

We're going for screen accuracy here You're right though, in the book as well as the Magic of Myth exhibit, the suede gloves patches are much lighter - But not the buck skin brown of the gloves as they originally were. My guess would be the dye faded with use and age. They are clearly black on screen and that's what we are after costume-wise. I agree though, that they look really cool the way they are.

Spike has a sale thread in the trade forum for Altmann lids.

There's nothing against it from an approval standpoint as far as I know, but I highly doubt it would hold up after a few troops, honestly. I initially used a product called Ultra Bond on mine (essentially makes it an iron on) for the same reason, but was advised against using solely that. So I ended up sewing my patches on by hand, and the Ultra Bond definitely helped keep everything in place during that process. I know there's mention of certain needles that work well if your machine has the "horsepower", but doing it by hand wasn't terrible...

Hot dang! Those might be real deal Esprit. You may have to dye the thumb and finger suede patches black.

I can definitely say don't just go straight across from point A to point B. Did that my first go on the knee armor and could barely bend my leg!

The Lancer Spec thread gets into the nitty gritty on elastic sizes, etc. You can find it here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12081 **added bonus - Your strapping will meet Lancer. Might as well do the whole build that way! **

If you have a chance could you throw up some pics of the new snout, Randy? Really curious to see it. Thanks for the blow by blow on the new KS kit parts. It'll be nice to have things that much closer on such a readily available bucket.

Note where I said "basically". The Sierra IV is all but confirmed as the original base boot, but image searches for Hi Tech (a.k.a. Inter) nearly always return a boot with the sole I previously posted. Now, from the Magic of Myth exhibit, and screen shots, we see the thin horizontal line bisecting the vertical cuts: I don't know if it's something that changed from the early 80's through the early 90's when they discontinued that boot, or if it was a slightly different model (Sierra III? Something like that?) But I've seen it both ways on our home made Scout Boots. I have the horizontal line on mine, but my heel cuts aren't very accurate. Going to be making a new pair if my hunt for real Sierras doesn't pan out...

I don't know of a template per se, but between the boot builds here and screen shots, you can get the gist of it for sure. This is basically the original base boot: Paint color and sole shape look good to me. And yes, I think the Blade of Exact Zero is the easiest way to chop 'em up. A few different blade styles help too, like the chisel tip.

I asked this early on when these were announced and back then it was "possibly". Who knows now, though...

The rank stripes and and grey bar ARE on the right. In the scenes in ROTJ where they appear on the left, the film negative had been flipped in post production. (Usually to make a character look the other way or exit the "stage" from the opposite direction that was performed on set)

Recast. And if that's their assembly job, it's not very good. The visor is really wonky, the details are soft... Move along.

That sounds familiar

Sounds like it's one of those things that isn't particularly set in stone, but for what it's worth here's the vest section from the CRL: Vest For 501st approval: Made out of black, matt finish, heavy weight cotton fabric. Sleeves are padded and contain ribbing similar to the front of the cummerbund. The sleeves end just slightly longer than the bottom edge of the shoulder armor. Vest has a much wider neck opening than the flight suit. Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener. In hindsight, I'm not sure where I got the "under the armor" from, but I remember being really stuck on making sure it wasn't showing in the front while I was making the vest...

In the front, the neck line should be under the chest armor. In the back, the vest will extend up beyond the tank for a few inches.

Jeff is the man. That site is a great resource. I can't get a good picture of my measuring tape on the box by myself. Can't hold everything and take the pic :/ But eyeballing it, everything seems to be at least 2-3cm bigger than his biggest measurements in the drawing. Might have redone his bucks after this drawing was made? It's ballpark though for sure.

Tandy Leather is a good source for suede. The TIE collar point might be a deal breaker for Lancer, but I doubt anyone would kick up a fuss over it for basic. Practically under the bucket, and black on black with the balaclava should make it very discreet. Might want to check with your GML though to be sure. That being said, I don't think it would be terribly difficult to lop it off and stitch 'er back up.

Not sure why the text doesn't jive with the picture I'll double check my actual SC boxes this evening...

I can't take a pic right at the moment, but this is from SC's website: The Thigh Boxes The thigh boxes are approximately 11.5 cm deep, 17.8 cm wide in the front and 19 cm wide in the back along it's base. The front wall is 5 cm tall and the back wall is 9 cm tall. The top surface is 14.5 cm wide in the front, 16.5 cm wide in the back and 7.6 cm deep.

I've noticed a lot of the character designs in "Rebels" give a nod to early concept designs. Chopper is very reminiscent of that first McQuarrie droid painting, and Zep looks a lot like an early Chewie sketch. Very cool stuff. Hopefully they don't use that garden gnome style Yoda though!

Yes, you can use a pocket to make the mandarin collar neck flap closure which is also required. *edit - just realized if it's a TIE flight suit it probably already has that neck flap. Nevermind

Nice job! You can go ahead and bring the sole cuts all the way around the toe.

I have this pic on hand if it helps. Left is WW large, right is WW Extra Large: The L is definitely more snug, but I like them for the winter...

Looks like a nice suit! You've hit the nail on the subtraction. Throw down the additions and I think you'll have a solid flightsuit. If you put your belt over the belt line/bunched elastic in the back, it will be sitting where it should and cover that bunchiness up as well.