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Retrofire

Armoury Team
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Everything posted by Retrofire

  1. Agree with wookievader drop the wire and go with adhesive on the t-bits. You can also add elastic to the bottom of your flight suit for your feet, like a stirrup, so it's nice and tight when you pull your boots on. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  2. The stock looks like something off a Biathalon or a competition .22 rifle. I would agree with Chef though and drop the original E11 stock piece at the front of the barrel. The FISD board has an excellent E11 reference guide for those who are interested and it's worth a look see. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  3. I picked up a set of Scout decals from Trooperbay. I went ahead a picked up and Altmann's from Spike but I am replacing the trapezoid decals with the Trooperbay ones. I am also going to replace the snout and I can PM you where I picked that one up from if you would like just let me know. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. Look forward to seeing the GML approval message! Great work! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  5. A minor nit but the left rear buckel looks too low. I think it needs to be moved more towards the center of the webbing. It looks great! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  6. Pathfinders lead the way! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  7. Check over in the furniture fabric section. If remember that's where I found it. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  8. I can send you a PM of who did my suit and vest if you would like. Just let me know. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  9. I got my vinyl from Hobby Lobby but I'm sure you can also find it at JoAnne's or other fabric store. Also, get yourself a tube of shoe goo and a box of pushpins for stretching. The boot tutorial is really helpful. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  10. But behind the Dewback Ridge TBs:) Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  11. Well you have the webbing that's going to pull it together. Maybe put on your suit, bund, and vest and use some tape on the webbing to get the fit just right. Then check your fit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. If you want Lancer then the riding patches and mudflap have to be real suede and make sure the loops around the thighs are 2" elastic. All the visible pockets will have to be removed and most of us use on to make the mandarin collar show in this thread: http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10779 and here for the CRL description: http://forum.bikersc...?showtopic=9898 I would recommend taking pictures of the flight suit to your tailor to help explain how you want the suit modified/fitted. I would also recommend adding elastic to the legs of the suit so it doesn't bunch up above your boot. You can find the patterns for the riding patches and mudflap in the soft armor forums. I'm sorry I don't know exactly which ones. I hope that helps a little.
  13. I went with the Texas Steer Men's KMAX2 5-inch Wheat Suede work boot from Kmart. They run about $20 they have a solid color sole and are easy to mod for Lancer. Just remove the upper grommets and mod the soles with the notch cuts. I modified a pair for my build. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14026&hl=&fromsearch=1 Let me know if I can help in any way.
  14. Welcome to BSN! Tons to learn here so dive on into the trees! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  15. Maybe use a collapsible type of bag like those in a Camelback? Keeps it light and you can place a hole in the back armor plate and string the drinking tube around your bund or over your shoulder? Just a thought. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  16. Yay! Another kiwi build! Check out Oblivian's thread. Waiting is the worst part. I'm waiting for my bucket to come in and it feels like it's taking forever... Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  17. Can you provide a pic of the inside of your holster? I have a Hyperfirm and I'd like to try this method before I cut into my blaster. Thanks! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  18. Thanks very much Jim that means a lot coming from you. Appreciate any feedback on what I have so far. Now I just have to hunt down the elusive sewing machine to get all my strapping completed. I would hold off on doing anything until you get the whole package together. I have to keep reminding my self that there is still a bund, vest, and flight suit that is going under the armor and it all has to fit together neatly. I'm not going to do my front and back armor without my vest on at a minimum since I know it has to fit over that and not just my t-shirt.
  19. No. The vest is required for basic 501st approval. For Lancer the vest must be separate from the cummerbund and flight suit. 4505Marcel broke out the CRL here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9143.
  20. I completed the T-bits for the bicept armor. I separated the top and the bottom parts of the T-Bit using a razor saw and then shimmed the bottom with a piece of spare ABS from my build. From there I filled in the edges with putty, sanded them flush and then painted to match the top portion. The height difference is a little more subtle than I was hoping for but overall I'm ok with the result. I glued and installed the second side box on the belt and I was really happy with how strong it is structurally. The technique is something that's going to go into my toolbox for sure. You can see the "tab" in this picture. The boot holster was completed as well. I used the 1/8" by 1/8" steel rivets along with a piece of backing ABS that SC includes in the kit to give the boot a little more support once the holster is attached. For the bottom two rivets I added backing washers to ensure it doesn't pull out of the boot fabric. Here's a closeup of the backing ABS inside the boot.
  21. Thanks so much for the kind words Redbird. It's really been an experience. I know building a TK isn't a walk in the park either and I hope your build is going great. More pics to come for sure
  22. No, I didn't touch the drop boxes at all except to sand the edges to a clean finish. I trimmed the belt side boxes on the rivet side before gluing them in. I think I only took about 1/8" of an inch on both. I'm only 5'8" with a 31" waist (jean sizing not tape) so I needed to draw the belt in a bit like Pandatrooper did. For the belt webbing I'm thinking of adding some loop to the inside of the belt side boxes and add hook to both sides of the white webbing. I can adjust it from there for the best fit then rivet it in. I've even thought of doing a blind rivet and just using the velcro but I'm not sure how that will look. More research is needed on the drop boxes before I tackle those. I'm looking for some better pics of the screen scouts to see how they installed their cotton webbing.
  23. I tackled the belt today and busted out my new heat gun. I sanded the side boxes and trimmed the edges down to one inch (2.54cm) and drilled a single rivet hole for the belt closure strap. This was the first time I used a heat gun and it does take some getting used to. I found that the best technique was to make several passes test the bend and then continue to heat it a little at a time so it took me a little longer than usual to make all the bends. I sanded down the mating parts to create a stronger bond and applied the adhesive and clamped it tight. I only have four clamps so I can only do one side at time. Next up are the slots for the drop boxes and the second half of the belt assembly.
  24. It's hard with the detachment being world wide so I'm doing the same thing with asking questions in my own build thread. It's funny that we're looking at the same thing with the drop boxes. I need to get a little further with my belt so I can fit those properly. I'm going to bend the edges tonight with my new heat gun and hopefully not turn it to slag. My OCD keeps telling me to ask you to fix your garrison spelling and can you send me a link to your thread? I can't seem to find it.
  25. It doesn't really feel that way to me. I feel like I am moving slow and that's ok. Although I'm very excited to have my armor built I didn't want to just "slap" it together I really wanted to craft it to fit me and look as best as I can make it. It's almost like earning the right to called Pathfinder by building your armor like a Jedi building their lightsaber . It wasn't until I set the shoulders upright on a level surface that I really noticed the "lean". I took some measurements and used my trusty masking tape to set the level line and trimmed them then did the side cuts. You're right though they both were around 5-6mm off on one side. If I'm picking nits I also noticed that the right box on the main belt (as you're wearing it) is also low by 5-6mm on one side. I guess it's just my OCD wanting the belt boxes to be perfectly level . You can always go back and trim up your shoulders if you want and if you take it a few small cuts at a time I think there is little risk of "boobing" it up. You can always go to the "ask an armorer" forum too and ask questions. You'll get responses from Pathfinders way more experienced and they can give you the hint and tips to do any task!
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