Retrofire

No worries Scout! We all take it a step at a time. Just focus on one thing for the moment and take it to completion and move on to the next one. Right now I'm focusing on my returns and the pile of sandpaper to go through to get it as smooth as you mention in your build thread. We're all behind you brother so be encouraged and know that we're here for you when you need.

That what I used. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Hey Chris, Have you had a chance to look through these threads? There might be some helpful info. Best to you! http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14023&hl=cleaning&fromsearch=1 or http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=8254&st=0&p=65416&hl=cleaning&fromsearch=1entry65416

Woohoo!!! What a great feeling it is when the armor arrives! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

You need to find a balance between thight and too tight as the did will roll over and look like a thong. In think in going to go with a plastic insert like Pandatrooper and some other scouts have to avoid this problem. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I worked today on the back armor and now both sides are complete. I filed them down and started sanding with 110 grit so there is much more sanding to come. Here they are together. and another one side by side: It was scary but I'm happy with the outcome. It looks a lot worse right after you get done but after cleaning it up with the file and sandpaper it starts to look better. Patience is a must with this process mostly due to the curve in the armor. You just have to take it a little at a time and just keep moving.

Ok so here's the results of the front armor returns. Love you know what you all think and don't be shy if they look like pucky Here's a wider shot. I used the method prescribed by a certain trooper of the Canadian ORS. It takes patience and a little practice to get the method down but once I got going it wasn't so bad. Most of my time was spent getting the temperature right on my iron which turns out to be almost max on the dial. I did both sides in a little over an hour. I don't think the angle came out as defined. I think it's about 30 degrees or so. I am happy with how the return edge makes the armor look much more "solid".

Started sketching my lines for trimming the front and back armor and for the returns. I picked my heat sealing iron and I'm ready to give it a try. Need to watch PandaTrooper's tutorial a few more times and practice on some scrap before I give this a shot.

Troopers helping troopers is what it's all about!

On those WW gloves did you order a size up? They tend to run small so most of us go up a size to make sure they fit comfortably. Just a heads up.

PM sent. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The archived posts sometimes lose the connection to the images or the images have been removed. The one I provided a link for does have the images. Give the search function a try at the top of the forum and just thumb through the posts that relate to the DP. We're more than happy to help that's what we're here for. Troopers helping troopers!

"That's not the bucket you're looking for.......move along, move along" Add some more posts (you'll need five) and get access to the trade forum you can find higher accuracy buckets for a lower cost than that one.

"This isn't the bucket you're looking for.......move along, move along"

I use the plastic weld for low stress area and to hold parts when I'm going to rivet them in. So far I've used it on my knee armor where I need to put rivets for the 0.5" (1.27cm) elastic. I've also used it on the thermal detonator to help secure the belt loops along with the zip ties and to help hold the tab in my back armor before I riveted it in. It's good for areas that don't need the strength of a strong adhesive. The E6000 on the other hand is a really tough adhesive and can withstand the rigors of trooping. This is the stuff you use for all your greeblies and I also used it for my belt assembly. The Stormtrooper detachment swears by it. It's like the duct tape of the 501st . It's also very forgiving (unlike zap a gap) so if you made an alignment mistake or need to shift a part you just glued a smidge E6000 gives you time to work with it. It's best to start out with if this is your first build. Just make sure you have some ventilation when you uncork it as it can get rather stinky like spray paint. I think I called out where I used the plastic through my build thread. I hope this helped a little. Please let me know if I can be of any more help.

Fear not my friend! It shouldn't intimidate you at all! Besides we're here to help whenever you need. That's why we all post build threads. It gives your fellow and the more senior Pathfinders a chance to jump in and give you advice when you need. I had collected most of this for my TK build so I already had most of it on hand. I would say the tools you will really need to have on hand are: clamps, lexan scissors, E6000 adhesive, rivet gun and rivets, washers for rivets, sandpaper (I've been using mostly 400 grit to clean up mold residue and flash), file set, straight edge, and plastic weld. The optional items that I collected are decals and helmet liner from Trooperbay, 1.5" white cotton webbing, snaps, extra greeblies, and all sorts of Velcro (never have too much Velcro ). Please feel free to ask any questions about what I have on the table and I'll be happy to expound

I installed the tab and riveted it into the back armor. Once I got the tab in I drilled through the tank topper and tab and riveted the tank to the back armor I drilled another hole through the bottom of the tank and set another rivet in place. It's nice and tight. A word of caution is in order here. I went through something like five rivets trying to get the top part of the tank installed. The first time I didn't use a rivet long enough. It was a 1/8" x 1/8" and it just didn't engage the tab. I ended up drilling the rivet out and being thankful it didn't damage the tank or topper. I moved a size up to 1/8" x 1/4" and missed the tab twice. The third time I hit the tab but again it didn't engage....too short. After drilling out (yet) another rivet I decided to move up again to a 1/8" x 3/8" rivet and this one finally engaged and locked the tank into place. Happy days! In all cases I was using a backing washer but I just didn't figure on checking the length needed for the rivet. Just wanted to share and suggest that if you go with this method that you take a minute to check the clearance to ensure the rivet will engage the first time. Trust me it's scary to have to drill out a rivet on your nice finished tank.

Welcome to BSN! This is a great place for all things Pathfinder! The folks around here are just great and have loads of great advice and hints to make your build look great and go a little easier on the builder. You'll need five posts to access the Trade Forum so head out into the forest and get engaged with the folks here. If there is anything you need or any questions just feel free to ask. Again welcome and it's great to have you.

Welcome to BSN! Great to have another in the forest! As far as the lid is concerned run..run far away and don't look back. That lid would require a significant amount of modification to get anywhere close to applicable. Check out the armor forums for helmets to get an idea of what's out there for you. I hope that helps and again welcome to BSN! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Welcome to BSN! This is a great place to learn about all things Pathfinder. I would recommend heading through all the areas of the forums and learning all you can. Sounds like a good place for you to start is over in the armory. To start you off here's a thread regarding the Don Post lid that might be of help. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=13116&hl=%2Bdon+%2Bpost&fromsearch=1 Good hunting and again welcome!

Brian, I was looking at your pics above and wanted to ask if you were wearing your vest underneath your chest armour and shoulder bells? I couldn't tell from the picture. The reason I ask is that you might want to make sure that you're sizing your upper armour to include your vest or it might be a little tight.

Thanks Cheyenne! I didn't have the vinyl that Pandatrooper used for his rectangle so I went with the Humbrol dark grey that I picked up for my TK build. The decal that comes with the SC kit seemed a bit too light to me.

I guess RS stands for "Rarely Shipped" I sorry you folks have to go through this. What a bummer. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I'm finally getting back to my build after getting back from a business trip over to the Garrison Tyranus area of operations in Virginia. It was good trip but I'm happy to be back in the Dewback Ridge Garrison with my family. I've started back with some minor work on my front and back armor. I masked off the front armor rectangle and painted it with Humbrol dark grey. I moved onto the back armor and started by creating a tab for the top portion of the tank to rivet into. I used a piece of scrap ABS trimmed it down and sanded it smooth. I also trimmed my drop boxes for the webbing. Still need to file and sand them a bit to clean them up.

I think if you look through the build threads you can find some mods. Try Battswhatsup, pandatrooper, and wookievader's threads. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk