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Retrofire

Armoury Team
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Everything posted by Retrofire

  1. I got my vinyl from Hobby Lobby but I'm sure you can also find it at JoAnne's or other fabric store. Also, get yourself a tube of shoe goo and a box of pushpins for stretching. The boot tutorial is really helpful. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  2. But behind the Dewback Ridge TBs:) Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  3. Well you have the webbing that's going to pull it together. Maybe put on your suit, bund, and vest and use some tape on the webbing to get the fit just right. Then check your fit. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  4. If you want Lancer then the riding patches and mudflap have to be real suede and make sure the loops around the thighs are 2" elastic. All the visible pockets will have to be removed and most of us use on to make the mandarin collar show in this thread: http://forum.bikersc...showtopic=10779 and here for the CRL description: http://forum.bikersc...?showtopic=9898 I would recommend taking pictures of the flight suit to your tailor to help explain how you want the suit modified/fitted. I would also recommend adding elastic to the legs of the suit so it doesn't bunch up above your boot. You can find the patterns for the riding patches and mudflap in the soft armor forums. I'm sorry I don't know exactly which ones. I hope that helps a little.
  5. I went with the Texas Steer Men's KMAX2 5-inch Wheat Suede work boot from Kmart. They run about $20 they have a solid color sole and are easy to mod for Lancer. Just remove the upper grommets and mod the soles with the notch cuts. I modified a pair for my build. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=14026&hl=&fromsearch=1 Let me know if I can help in any way.
  6. Welcome to BSN! Tons to learn here so dive on into the trees! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  7. Maybe use a collapsible type of bag like those in a Camelback? Keeps it light and you can place a hole in the back armor plate and string the drinking tube around your bund or over your shoulder? Just a thought. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  8. Yay! Another kiwi build! Check out Oblivian's thread. Waiting is the worst part. I'm waiting for my bucket to come in and it feels like it's taking forever... Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  9. Can you provide a pic of the inside of your holster? I have a Hyperfirm and I'd like to try this method before I cut into my blaster. Thanks! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks very much Jim that means a lot coming from you. Appreciate any feedback on what I have so far. Now I just have to hunt down the elusive sewing machine to get all my strapping completed. I would hold off on doing anything until you get the whole package together. I have to keep reminding my self that there is still a bund, vest, and flight suit that is going under the armor and it all has to fit together neatly. I'm not going to do my front and back armor without my vest on at a minimum since I know it has to fit over that and not just my t-shirt.
  11. No. The vest is required for basic 501st approval. For Lancer the vest must be separate from the cummerbund and flight suit. 4505Marcel broke out the CRL here: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9143.
  12. I completed the T-bits for the bicept armor. I separated the top and the bottom parts of the T-Bit using a razor saw and then shimmed the bottom with a piece of spare ABS from my build. From there I filled in the edges with putty, sanded them flush and then painted to match the top portion. The height difference is a little more subtle than I was hoping for but overall I'm ok with the result. I glued and installed the second side box on the belt and I was really happy with how strong it is structurally. The technique is something that's going to go into my toolbox for sure. You can see the "tab" in this picture. The boot holster was completed as well. I used the 1/8" by 1/8" steel rivets along with a piece of backing ABS that SC includes in the kit to give the boot a little more support once the holster is attached. For the bottom two rivets I added backing washers to ensure it doesn't pull out of the boot fabric. Here's a closeup of the backing ABS inside the boot.
  13. Thanks so much for the kind words Redbird. It's really been an experience. I know building a TK isn't a walk in the park either and I hope your build is going great. More pics to come for sure
  14. No, I didn't touch the drop boxes at all except to sand the edges to a clean finish. I trimmed the belt side boxes on the rivet side before gluing them in. I think I only took about 1/8" of an inch on both. I'm only 5'8" with a 31" waist (jean sizing not tape) so I needed to draw the belt in a bit like Pandatrooper did. For the belt webbing I'm thinking of adding some loop to the inside of the belt side boxes and add hook to both sides of the white webbing. I can adjust it from there for the best fit then rivet it in. I've even thought of doing a blind rivet and just using the velcro but I'm not sure how that will look. More research is needed on the drop boxes before I tackle those. I'm looking for some better pics of the screen scouts to see how they installed their cotton webbing.
  15. I tackled the belt today and busted out my new heat gun. I sanded the side boxes and trimmed the edges down to one inch (2.54cm) and drilled a single rivet hole for the belt closure strap. This was the first time I used a heat gun and it does take some getting used to. I found that the best technique was to make several passes test the bend and then continue to heat it a little at a time so it took me a little longer than usual to make all the bends. I sanded down the mating parts to create a stronger bond and applied the adhesive and clamped it tight. I only have four clamps so I can only do one side at time. Next up are the slots for the drop boxes and the second half of the belt assembly.
  16. It's hard with the detachment being world wide so I'm doing the same thing with asking questions in my own build thread. It's funny that we're looking at the same thing with the drop boxes. I need to get a little further with my belt so I can fit those properly. I'm going to bend the edges tonight with my new heat gun and hopefully not turn it to slag. My OCD keeps telling me to ask you to fix your garrison spelling and can you send me a link to your thread? I can't seem to find it.
  17. It doesn't really feel that way to me. I feel like I am moving slow and that's ok. Although I'm very excited to have my armor built I didn't want to just "slap" it together I really wanted to craft it to fit me and look as best as I can make it. It's almost like earning the right to called Pathfinder by building your armor like a Jedi building their lightsaber . It wasn't until I set the shoulders upright on a level surface that I really noticed the "lean". I took some measurements and used my trusty masking tape to set the level line and trimmed them then did the side cuts. You're right though they both were around 5-6mm off on one side. If I'm picking nits I also noticed that the right box on the main belt (as you're wearing it) is also low by 5-6mm on one side. I guess it's just my OCD wanting the belt boxes to be perfectly level . You can always go back and trim up your shoulders if you want and if you take it a few small cuts at a time I think there is little risk of "boobing" it up. You can always go to the "ask an armorer" forum too and ask questions. You'll get responses from Pathfinders way more experienced and they can give you the hint and tips to do any task!
  18. I spent some time working on the beginnings of my belt assembly. I marked off the areas to trim out for the side box webbing and drilled pilot holes. From there I set three more holes for a total of five and used my lexan scissors to trim out the rest. from there I used my small flat and round files to clean up and shape the openings. Finally I went over everything with 400 grit sandpaper to get the finish I wanted. Then I used some scrap plastic and made two snap plates and installed them. Next I plan on working on the two belt boxes using Pandatroopers method to make it all one piece as well as make the cuts for the lower side boxes for the cotton webbing.
  19. Welcome to BSN! This is a great place to learn about all things Pathfinder! If you haven't had the chance make sure you also go to the Spanish Garrison website. www.legion501.com. Dig in and learn all you can this place is full of extremely knowledgable folks. Best to you! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  20. Can't wait for mine to come in either! There will be pics for sure! Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  21. I would think that the mouse's Imperial Lawyer Corps are ruthlessly efficient they may not have shown up on the radar yet but I fear they will and probably soon. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  22. Stanley makes a nice roll around system that's more like carry-on luggage. It's smaller an narrower. I just need to make sure my back plate with tank will fit. I can use the top box to keep my emergency repair supplies in. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  23. I would PM Spike. He can hook you up with an Altmann's. That's where I got mine. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  24. Wow! Can't image how you'll react when your lid arrives:) That's awesome I've been looking for a trooping chest for my TB as well. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
  25. Tonight I worked on the knees and the shoulders. I sanded down the edges of the knees and cut and sanded some shims to add for the top strap of the knee assembly (yes, I want to go from Lancer at some point). The shims were glued in using plastic weld to reinforce the joint when I attach the elastic. The shoulder armor was not exactly square so I measured and set lines to square up the bottom and cut them using my trusty lexan scissors. If you don't have a pair go out and get one they are invaluable! I then moved on to trimming them a la Pandatrooper. I measured up from the bottom 4.5" (11.43cm) and 0.5" (1.27cm) from each side and drew my guidelines. I then used a 1.75" (4.45cm) circle guide to layout the curves at the bottom of the armor pieces. After cutting and sanding I was real happy with how they came out.
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