Retrofire

The snaps are assembled using a setting tool. The method, in this case, was to drill a 0.125" hole in the tab, push the post end of the snap through the tab, put the male/female connector on, then use the setting tool and a hammer to push the post metal down over the connector. Then imagine there is a piece of material between the post and the snap. You then hammer the post into place over the connector. You can use a rivet to make this connector as well but you will need a washer sized to the inside of the fitting. Tandy Leather has snap kits and setting tools that you can pick up pretty inexpensively.

Good question! The reason is structural [it's the engineer in me]. Metal doesn't bond well directly to ABS (SC armor) and the function of snapping and unsnapping can cause a lot of strain on the connection. Using the ABS tabs gives the part a larger area to bond to and makes it much stronger. The adhesives also work better in an ABS to ABS bond rather than dissimilar materials. In my build I used plastic weld for these connections which needs a plastic to plastic connection to bond correctly.

Oops sorry about the double post. Not sure how that happened....

Yeah that's the one. I went over my shoulder joins with a heat gun, a la' Pandatrooper, on low and curved them down to fit my frame a little better. I used my eye to get both sides even then put them front to back to make sure the halves met. I think it looks a lot better. If that's what you do just go slow with the gun on low and keep testing it to see if it's soft enough to bend. When it is gently pull it down and hold it until it cools enough to hold the curve. I cannot express enough to be patient if you end up doing this. Just do a one at time and move to the next one. I have a couple of side views in my build thread if you would like to take a look.

Yeah that's the one. I went over my shoulder joins with a heat gun, a la' Pandatrooper, on low and curved them down to fit my frame a little better. I used my eye to get both sides even then put them front to back to make sure the halves met. I think it looks a lot better. If that's what you do just go slow with the gun on low and keep testing it to see if it's soft enough to bend. When it is gently pull it down and hold it until it cools enough to hold the curve. I cannot express enough to be patient if you end up doing this. Just do a one at time and move to the next one. I have a couple of side views in my build thread if you would like to take a look.

That's a good looking kit so far. Here's a few things that might help: 1.) Roll your bicept and forearm armour over a bit more they're a bit too far back. I was told that they should line up with the center of the shoulder bell. 2.) Agree with you in regards to the pouches. For my pouches the tab folds over the back of the pouch and the loop Velcro is sewn on the "top" part of the tab. I have the hook on the bund so when I attach my pouches you can't see the tab. Not sure if I made any sense with that. 3.) Not sure what's going on with your side view picture but from what I can see the connecting tab needs to come forward a bit to cover the front and back armor tabs. It's looking great and you're getting so close! Look forward to seeing pics with your Spike bucket on!

Adam, don't worry about your lid. There are a host of folks here who can help you with assembly and I know you can do it but if you are concerned there are options to purchase pre-built ones via the Trade Forum. SC offers one and so does Spike & Chef. You'll need a least 5 posts to access the Trade Forum section so keep asking those great questions!

I would have to agree with Tim. Shoe Goo is the way to go. Just coat the boot and the vinyl let it tack up a bit and then stick it on.

That is some good looking armor! The rounded shoulder bells look great. I really enjoyed building the updated SC. Look forward to seeing the belt. Great job Cheyenne!

Our world famous Chef has a good pictorial on scout building here: http://kgbairsoft.com/wordpress/?page_id=122 If you haven't had the chance Pandatroopers tutorial is also really well done: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=9781 There are a few of us that have based our builds on that thread. Another good idea is to browse through all the other build tutorials, in the Biker Scout HQ section, as they are all good references of what does (and more importantly does not) work when building. Hope this helps!

You should save her autograph in case she is famous someday and make a new pouch:) Maybe she'll star in SW ep14 or something. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I was wondering about that. When I looked at those boots it looked like the dogbone was upside down. Am I just seeing things? Another item is that I thought only boots build with the boot tutorial were acceptable for Lancer. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Ben I responded to your question on your boot thread. Let me know if I can help any further

Good choice! My white armor lid is an Altmann's but my Shadow will be a Chef. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

No need to apologize that's what we're here for😀. I would add some small modeling files to clean up your cuts before you sand. You will also need a pair of lexan scissors for cutting and trimming your armor. They are an invaluable tool for that task. You might be able to also find all these items at a Hobby Lobby or a Michael's as well. I used 200 and 400 grit and some higher grit such as 600, 800, & 1000 it just depends on how shiny you want your post cut armor or look. For the drill bits I mostly used a 1/8 and a 5/32 to cut out my pilot slots for the strapping. I would suggest taking a look through some of the build threads that are located in the Biker Scout HQ and that should help narrow down exactly what you need. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Darn Texans Your knees are looking great! I ended up cutting the 0.5" in half and sewing on some Velcro to make it easier to put them on over my flight suit. Now i just have to find a way to pad the lower curve of the armor as the return edge really digs into the bottom of my knee.

I firmly believe that there isn't a "Lancer" approved or even "501st" approved anything. Please do not be drawn in by anything that claims this because 9 times out of 10 it isn't. It's a matter of how the armor looks and is made to fit YOU. We use the CRL(s) to find out what is needed then it's research, research, research, and yes more research to find out what works and what doesn't. That's why BS.N and your local garrison are such an invaluable resource. This place is the place for all things pathfinder and these folks are here to help dorks like me, who initially didn't know snot, how to create a 501st approved set of armor. The short answer is that while all of those are great lids they will need to be gone over to ensure they meet the requirements. The Lancer requirements are found here:http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12081 If the lid meets those requirements then you are good to go.

Oh I see I have to rip my TD apart and change the color but nooo not you.....it's a Texan conspiracy Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

There are two flavors here. You have a canon and non-canon event. If it's a canon event only the hold out blaster can be carried. At a non-canon event you can carry usually whatever you want as long as your garrison CO/GML ok's it. We usually leave the E11s for the stormies so I haven't seen a Pathfinder carrying one in any pics (and it just doesn't look right IMO) but I have seen the DLT-19 carried and Hyperfirm even has a DLT-19 with scope for the Scouts. Some folks even take the Nerf guns and mod them and troop with them. Here's the thread for the Nerf mods: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=13852

Ok. Just wanted to save you extra work:) Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Cheyenne you might want to check on the TD tube color with Grif. I ended up having to disassemble mine and paint the tube a darker grey to match my snout and chest rectangle. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

I think Spike had dimensions in his sales thread. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

Isaac has one for sale in the Trade Forum with pics. I don't think they are for larger skulls:) Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

You won't go wrong there my friend. My vest is solid and it should last me a long time and it looks great. It's made of stronger material than a tee so it should last you many troops. I would recommend taking your measurements with your flight suit on. Mine is excellent but I measured a little under, I was wearing a tee shirt at the time, so it's a little tight over my flightsuit.

That's good stuff. Remember that you will also need a vest to go on top of your bund. Looking at the bund on the website it doesn't look quite right. There should be a series of 5-6 seams down the middle of the abdomen part and I couldn't tell if the rounded chevron was on the cod piece. You also might want to change out the thigh boxes with ones from SC as they look much better. James (JimmyFilth) is building a set of KS if you want to take a look. Here's the thread: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=15135 Can' wait to see your build progress!