lonewolf

Hi Alex, the Humbrol No.5 grey , the commonly assumed colour for the Stormtrooper frown and indents is not necessarily correct for even the Stormtroopers. The Biker Scout noseplate and engine detail is most certainly not Humbrol, the Biker Scout helmets were made and assembled in America, the nose detail is not a gloss paint, judging by the original helmets on Star Wars helmets and BS.N gallery. Yes the 3M bolts are very light grey, the colour match is not necessary as the originals did not match either. Do not paint the bolts! I use a grey undercoat to paint the nose detail and snout piece, all the different greys will look fine. If you don't like the MC decal grey I can supply a set in a light grey. Unfortunately I don'y know if the MC grey is any lighter or darker than mine.

Wet and dry paper can go up to 3000 grit, it feels as smoothe as newspaper. Any carbody repair shop will have this stuff. The finish of the paint job will always only be as good as the preparation work. Always a light sanding and some panel wipe between coats. When the final coat of paint is completely dry , about a week, cutting compound then T Cut will take off the "orange peel" effect for a flawless finish, if that is what you want. As a helmet liner I would recommend the 3M 9000/9001 series Speedglas headband, very comfortable ,not sweaty, adjustable and exactly the same type as the original helmets. If you are going to the trouble of buying a headband then this is the one.

And it is from a company in the UK, but I am sure there will be similar racing suits in USA. The expensive racing/kart suits are fire retardant, double layered, etc , what you need is the cheaper thinner lighter version. Maybe look for pitcrew overalls or something like that. Most versions are multicoloured or have a colour piping around them.The cheapest versions are all black. I have looked at lots of racing suits,military overalls, boiler suits , flight suits, swat suits, this is the best in my opinion. I have always been a bit uncertain what the original was , even having read Witness's verification! I am now certain the MOM costume is a racing suit .

I am not sure I am allowed to post the link? Look up racing suit overalls on Ebay.

Lovely build, look forward to the finished helmet.

I have just bought a new undersuit, a black pair of racing overalls, very good fit and much less adjusting compared to the multi pocketed flight suit. The pockets are very similar to the MOM exibit, square bottom and the only modifications, apart from the 2" straps, riding patch and mudflap, I removed the 4 brand name patches and knee pads, a ten minute job. I am very happy with this suit and would advise others to go this route.

Great work so far, nice comparison shot. As with everything, this kit should go together well if everything is measured well and you don't rush. Kits will hopefully be made available shortly.

Suit looks a bit baggy still, I have just sent a racing suit back last week, it sis very difficult buying without trying! Use a wee rectanglular grey sticker for the chest detail, it will always be neater than trying to spray it on, there will maybe be a bit on the helmet sticker set you can use. Regarding size of chest detail,the SC chest has too big an indent so just make the rectangle a bit smaller so it appears more accurate. If you are really fussy then change the forearm black elastic to a thinner size, the originals were thinner than the biceps, the knees actually had two equally thin elastic strips to secure them to the legs, top strap connected via rivets on the return edge.

Looks great Nate, you wear it well.

Good luck on the build, I look forward to seeing how you manage.

White gelcoated fibreglass looks great, slight knocks to the finish can be buffed out and it can be very robust , depending on the no. of layers. As the originals were all plastic this is my preferred material, but even plastic can be damaged, the overall look will be the same whatever it is made with. Rob, tell the kids it is Plasteel, very advanced Imperial issue!

If you look closely the ends of the elastic are folded over and a staple is used to secure the end together!

I fitted a chincup and strap because the originals all had this feature. Apparently this could have been a possible scene until GL decided against showing Stormtrooper faces. It is actually quite comfortable and holds the helmet well when I find any BMX bikes to play on! The 3/4" black elastic is fed from the inner bottom slot at the side of the helmet outside then back into the helmet, through the chincup, back up and into the inner top slot then back into the helmet though the bottom slot. I fold the ends back on themselves and use a drop of glue to hold the elastic together, I am guessing this is the same method as the originals. I also think this should be a Lancer requirement as it is another fact about the costume, easily replicated.

Cut about 1" off the back of the belt taking away the rivets. Use one rivet in the centre, if you are a bit bigger in the belly region this fix may not be advisable. The drop boxes are fixable, no need to buy any more. The very best way to join the belt together is by ABS glue, the originals may have also been a three piece belt , like SC. The close ups show a warp at this point, maybe glued, maybe not. Google 1.5" cotton webbing, or tape, the herringbone stuff is ok but you are looking for a plain stitch.

Great advice as usual Dave, I prefer Moncal's greeblies over Don Jarr's version, this is why I changed them. At the minute we haven't got a good reference pic on what they actually look like, there may be variations in the originals as well, and we do know there were screen used Biker Scouts without any greeblies on the TD.Maybe fell off! George Lucas apparently was the first to call any Star Wars detail a greeblie, a term that means nothing to anybody but Star Wars costumers.

I would fix the "slot" you cut with a piece of white ABS plastic glued behind the tiidied up hole. This only needs to be a slot no bigger than the 1.5" webbing material. The rivets are too many, yes it will be more troopable but please ask questions before you do any more. I always always refer to the gallery with the close up pics of the real deal, it is brilliant. Studio Creations also has some great close ups of the original stuff. There is no rush, do each piece as nicely as possible, as Marcel has said, please do not use the 1.5" nylon supplied with this kit, upgrade to cotton, off white stuff. I am still working on my kit, two years later, I keep finding out more accurate ways of doing it. Even pm me if you have any problems.

Well done John, looking good!

Thanks Dave, sound reasoning, I asked the question in case anyone had any definitive measurements or any new pictures had been found.

The one on the right look exactly like a Don Jarr version. He is still selling this type and various other bits and pieces, actually a very reliable seller. The aerator is too big unfortunately, the Moncal is the most accurate of the two.

Use gloss paint, or if the gloss "bloomed" this can be further polished with cutting compound, then Tcut, then car polish. A coat or 6 of car lacquer will give a superb shine, make sure it is compatible with the previous paint. Any runs or flaws in the initial paint job, leave it to dry fully for at least a week then use wet and dry sandpaper to buff out the imperfections. A light coat of paint then a light rub down between coats will alway work best. I have used "two pack" paints, very hard wearing and very shiney, maybe this helps.

Yes I know this, I also believe it could be incorrect.

The originals were a racing suit type thing, the pockets on the MOM exibit certainly look the same as the standard style pocket of a racing suit, at least what I can see of it. Many racing/cart/motorsport/pitcrew/mechanic overalls/suit have a wide range of sizes and not just s/m/l/xl etc. This type of suit is what you want to try to get, the arms are tighter fitting by the looks of it and try to get as light a material as possible, cotton preferably.

Yes this subject has been talked about many times, if it is agreed that the drop box straps are 1.5" then the leg thigh straps are at least wider judging by the MOM suit and the pre production Biker Scout pictures, as seen in Star Wars Chronicles. I believe the actual size is closer to 2" , guess work unfortunately. Anybody ever measured the two different straps for a definitive measurement?

Here is a picture of a black boot in progress. Wow David, you must show us how you make the toe so neat, superb job.

I am 5ft 9" with a 34" waist and used a large flightsuit, it is not roomy! With all the modifications you might need to do maybe a black boiler suit/work suit would be an option, they have more room in the belly region for big builders!