lonewolf

Brilliant build Hrvoje, this is looking great, and very fast work as well , top notch so far.

I think you are right, I can't remember how I did it now.I will hoke out a few pics.

Hi Mark, Leave all the plastic on this part, what is there is almost wide enough as it is. A good idea is to actually just round off the bottom corners and maybe add a strengthener to the inside of it as well. Yes the dome is in the correct position, just make sure you put a mark on both centres to keep it lined up as you glue the parts together. The eye cut out is quite good, more to be removed at the sides to be a bot more accurate.Look at the original helmets on Jez's site, Star Wars Helmets, there are several different original helmets to look at. With the KS it is better to keep away from the helmet side as it has a very shallow ear recess, I would cut more towards the outer edge, judging by the pencil mark I would go about another 7-8 mm out. Most guys dont bondo/ silicone the gap. if you are very careful you can actually get the two parts completely joined without a gap, time , sandpaper and patience.If it has a gap it will look ropey. Good luck,

The pic above is quite good, you can see the left eye side edge is more rounded, the right eye a little bit straighter and wider. The eye area is tricky to pin down, they were all trimmed differently, the "STUNT" helmet has very big eyes, maybe to assist the stuntman to see where he was falling. The Star Wars in Concert lid has reasonably big eyes but the smallest eyes are the Steve Sansweet/ now PropStore of London lid. There are other LFL archive helmets with a nice eye cut out area, but none look so like a W if you can understand what I mean. The tiny amount you could take off will make a big difference imo.

Much better Juan, a flat piece of 600 gritsandpaper to smoothe off the edges will help. The eyes could do with a bit more shaping, top line is good, around the nose is good but the two sides are a bit too straight. The eye area should be a bit more rounded. Sorry my computer doesn't seem to want to post up pics atm.

Looks good, I would cut the visor a bit more, almost until you lose the inner return edge, This will stop the visor looking so heavy, do not remove too much! I spent quite a while making sure the gap was tight.

The last pic shows clearly the material neckseal, same as the Bluray 360 version. I am definately making one as part of my upgrades.Lancer standards or not. Cummerbund and flakvest one piece, this is very possible, as you say the velcro closure is the same way round etc. The practicality for a troopable cossy is trying to wash black with white. I am trying to upgrade my stuff at the minute but things are still a bit of guess work, even after the Blu ray appeared, the 360 degree Biker Scout could have had a complete costume on at least. The Biker Scout costume is pretty complicated still, good luck Paul.

Hi Rich, after trooping as a Royal Guard the Biker Scout cossy will feel brilliant! I tried on a RG helmet for all of two seconds, not a nice troopable lid, beautiful design however. Ok read as much of the forum as possible, use your own judgement on just how accurate you want to be and if you can get a friend to sew things you can save a few quid. Cummerbund, flakvest, pouches,modifications to your racing suit and boots are fairly easy to do yourself. Sith armor gloves, Undersuit, the best imo is a racing suit, kart overalls,pitcrew overalls whatever, try to get a thin cotton, or cotton mix material, cheaper the better,avoid flame retardant, fancy piping, double lined versions, plain black if you can. Armour, five main sellers, Moncal, Chef[uKG] StudioCreations,Kropserkel, and one other? accuracy best Moncal , follow list down to worst. I would have a look at the helmets to see which version you think looks right, Kropserkel has the best look imo, MLC V3 is a superbly built helmet but there are a few more inaccuracies compared to the KS. Rubies can be very good but ven they can sell for a lot more than they are worth. I have made a few kits myself, may make more if life allows it. Blaster, hard rubber versions are best for trooping, Doopy Doos, do a very accurate version,resin, original single point scope casting, no modifications required. I use a very thin silk balaclava to avoid sweating too much, but you know about this hazard already! Ok save this post now, start out sourcing the smaller pieces to inspire you to keep going and all the very best on this costume, a costume I have become very attached to.

Yes spray paints can work really well, I use this method on Biker Scout cummerbunds, pouches and boots.I have darkened down a member's Gammorean Guard costume with spraying it with blacks etc. A Rebel Commando in the EG used this method to great effect to show dirt etc. My Yoda puppet was sprayed with black matt, grey and matt browns to get the grimey look, it also had the bonus of emphasising the pucks and texture on the little kimono. Ok here is the method, always shake the cans well, you don't particularly want a pile of large droplets of paint on the item. Spray from a big distance initially to see exactly how the effect is working and to get a bit of confidence with the technique, Using your artistic vision try to capture where dirty marks would likely be, or not be! If you "think" too much about the weathering you start to "balance" things up, eg. a dot here a dot there, it ends up looking so unnatural, the real costumes appear to have been lined up and sprayed without much worry. Avoid tea, water dyes real dirt etc as this style of weathering is so unpredictable as to the outcome. Or just stay Death Star pen pusher!

I like the Death Star clean look, I spend my "real world" life in dirty clothes I have however weathered two Biker Scout costumes , and a couple of Clonetroopers for Emerald Garrison members, The Biker Scout original costume was dust sprayed with black and grey, with accentuated "spots", yes it can look unnatural if done badly but photograph, camera etc capture it much better than smearing dirt etc over it. Spraying from distance really can make your kit look screen accurate.

Hi Leo, I don't know the brand for the helmet, my wee brother used two pack white, a quality car paint, it is sprayed from a professional sprayer, rattle cans are not just as good. The black is a spray tin of black matt, from the local Halfords, goes on nice and if you want to you can polish it to be a bit more shiney.Gloss black is too shiney.

This seems to be a problem for some, hand painting will most likely end up a bit wobbly and getting that sharp line is unlikely.Also some helmets have a very small flat section which makes things even more tricky. I use 3mm good quality masking tape and just try to make a smooth curve to match the nose curve, one piece of tape throughout the whole section, if it stretches or breaks do another try. This is my new helmet kit.

Mask the surrounding helmet off with newspaper, use a good quality masking tape, spray with black matt paint and use the gallery pics to gauge the way the originals were painted,

This is my latest helmet build, I took a few pics to try to show how I paint the nose section,

Yes,I used ABS glue to hold the three pieces together, cut the gaps first to get a similar gap between the boxes as the originals. Overlap can be either way but I overlapped it front over back if you understand. Cut a small amount off the back lip,checking the size of the original, and please use only one rivet in the middle to secure the nylon 2" belt to the plastic. Any problems pm me. Studio Creations have the best pics of Biker Scout belts anywhere, the closeups are great.

I had this same problem with the Kashhyyk trooper boots I was doing. The paint has worked quite well, but if I were you I would buy a different pair of boots for the Biker Scout with a decent brown sole.The difficulty with the Clonetrooper was we had the correct rare boot but it was in black. You could pick up a cheap pair of desert boots for little more than the price of the paint you would use.

Thanks Lou, I am certain this will help others build this kit. Yes it is tricky and certainly not the easy option for a Biker Scout lid but I tried to get it as close to an original as I could. I think the original prop builders had the same problems as the original helmets were all built slightly differently. Great wee vid.

Looking good Lou, I am sure you had a bit of head scratching to do but you seem to have figured it out very well, hope you are happy with it.

I am sure the KS and MLC V3 are bigger than your lid, the SC is a bit smaller than these but easily flexes to allow a head to get into it.My lid is a bit bigger than the KS.

Yes Berry , I have a very small amount of these in kit form, pm me if you are interested. I really need to get my finger out, work keeps getting in the way.

Nice clear pics Dave, yes as most of us will agree, the Lancer standards should match with all the new details we discover about the original costume. I will definitely be upgrading to the latest requirements.

Looking good Lucas, the SC lid looks very nice, is it a waste to zombify this kit? Maybe an Endor hardened trooper would be an idea? Ewok battered ?

The webbing should hold the belt in position, eventually it will stay in this shape[ or crack] A heat gun could work, or put the belt in the oven for a minute or so at 150 degress approx. and watch it start to bend, take it out and hold it round your waist for a minute until it cools down. It will then be a curved shape and won't crack with prolonged bending and straightening.

Having looked at the Blu Ray 360 degree Biker Scout I now think the boots were vinyl, still not certain.

No, the whole left half[as you look at it] of the Rebel soldier's greeblie is the part which is on the Biker Scout TD. Same part as the top third rectangle on Admiral Ackbar's chest greeblie. I think pics of the Blu Ray Biker Scout are needed,