StudioCreations

Here are the other 5 still shots of the Scout Costume as seen on the Blu-ray bonus disc. I highly recommend everyone to buy these Blu-ray discs as soon as they can. Every Star Wars fans should have them, and it's a must for any Star Wars Costumer! There is just so much information in these Bonus Discs!!!!

Get your speed dialing fingers ready for the presale too. EFX claims the Vader Legend edition sold out in 4-5 minutes. http://www.efxcollectibles.com/p-111-anh-darth-vader-helmet-legend-edition.aspx

Click to see larger 1080p size screencap...

The closest thing to identifying this greeblie as the accurate one is from this screencap from the Blu-ray.... Everything is deep in shadow, but you can make out the single divit in between the two box areas of the greeblie. Looks like the Zip tie is very close to the greeblie in this particular thermal det too... This is the best lit screencap of the thermal det greeblie I have identified in the blu-ray.

Here's a raw 1080p image of the TD image captured directly off the Bluray. Captured for educational and instructional use only, of course. Click on the image to view FULL SIZE!

Bah!... any of these kits are good, IMHO. SC, KS, MC, EP or MLC... did I forget anyone major? The point I am making is... "Get into some armor." Nothing beats running around in costume and acting like a kid again. A good looking costume will take 'time' though, especially if you are a newbie to this hobby. I wonder what the hardest part of the costume is for a newbie to tackle? I am thinking the boots, but it could be attaching that back hump too.

If I read your question right, you are wondering how long it will take to complete the costume once you get the armor kit in hand. Is this correct? If you purchase an armor kit that is precut (or even "rough" cut, an armor kit that you need to sand the edges smooth) , you still need to get the white cumerbund and pouches made, find a proper fitting black flightsuit/under suit and black balaclava, get boots (either buy them or make them), and acquire gloves. This means you are probably looking at anywhere from 10-42 hours of work to finish out the costume. I could be a little off in my estimates, but this is how I see it breaking down from a 'novice' skill level, someone who has very little if no costuming experience... 6-12 hours = Assemble the armor parts for fitting 1/2-3 hours = researching and ordering the black undersuit and balaclava 0-2 hours = seam ripping pockets off the black undersuit that shouldn't be present. 1/2-10 hours = boots (buying online through a vendor, or making the boots yourself from the bikerscout.net tutorials) 1/2-10 hours = Cummerbund and Pouches (again ranges from buying online to making it yourself) 1/2-2 hours = Gloves (research and buying what fits your budget) 2-5 hours = tweaking the costume to get it to fit right once you have it on and take your 4-sided-pose photos Like I said, I could be off in my estimates. Anyone else care to chime in on time estimates on how long it takes to do some of these? I did not include a blaster in my estimates. I think, and I could be wrong, that one does not have to have a blaster for the scout costume in order to be accepted into the 501st, correct?

For the thermal det greeblies, we probably won't see much extra detail. But, on the T-bits, I've laready spotted details in the 1080i version that I have that have not been identified here on the boards (that I know of.) Mainly because the t-bits get more screen time than the Thermal det too. -jeff

I think that line inbetween the two pieces on the bicept t-bit is a sunshine highlight from the top of the squarish area. I've been researching the t-bits too, and the Squarish area is about 1.5 times thicker than the top of the Tbit (the VaderTie part.) BUt, that's another discussion thread all-together.

This is the best screencap image I could get of the Thermal Det Greeblies from the side. The Scout Trooper is moving in this shot, but it does show the general 'height' associated with the greeblies.

Thanks, Lonewolf. I don't think the square greeblies are the bottom parts of the t-bits, those items are probably 10-20% larger than what we have space for in that indention area of the thermal det. But I see where you are coming from. The image below shows a good size comparison for the t-bits and the thermal det greeblies. The more I research the thermal det, the more I wonder if the two square greeblies are not connected with a bridge of some sort. Something like a cannibalized part from a model kit or something. I can never find a screencap that shows a definitive gap between the two square black areas. This is only SPECULATION of course, and might be a good research topic for the guys over at thepartsofsw.com

I hunted down one of the elusive Germany "Fry" 1080i copies of ROTJ and grabbed this screen grab from it. This is the best screencap I have found to-date that shows the thermal det bits. I hope the Bluray DVD in September is 15% better in quality.

It looks like shenphong bought a set of armor that someone was working on piece-by-piece to make ELITE worthy. Most of the parts look to be Factory Second armor parts of an SC kit, combined with MC parts that probably replace the worst of the defective pieces. SC sells factory seconds kits from time to time, when we accrue enough slightly-defective parts to make a a kit. Generally we offer these to only High School or College students, who just do not have the funds to afford premium quality armor. That tank toopper is a factory second vacformed piece that we were putting with kits way-back-when. "MASTER 02/17/02" HAhahaha, how quality improves over the years. I think we changed that back mold in Feb 2003.

The thread topic is a little harsh, but gosh darn it, if these prop makers would spend a little more time looking at their molds and fixing them in a timely manner, then maybe threads like this would not crop up. I blame the video game series: Call of Duty: Modern Warfare (1 and 2) on my current costuming slackness.

Looking at the backs I have cut and on hand right now. Our mold trim lines do run the left curve in a little too tight. I think just starting at the center of the back and trimming the inner left curve a little wider (1/4 inch), then you should be able to fix the curve line a little more. Stop the trim at the corner edge that is already cut into the part. No need to trim a 1/4 inch in that corner, that corner is correct. The image below shows what I am talking about, adjust your cut line as need be. I drew this blue line really quick so it's a little jagged. We'll adjust the trim line in our plug mold this weekend. Good eye, thanks for pointing it out. -Jeff

For the shoulder tabs being longer, press the chest and back plate to your body, mark where any overlap occurs and "trim to fit" keeping in mind where you want the front and back to meet at for the seamtape. I need to run home after work and look at a backplate. Right off the top of my head I know that the bevelled edge in question has a slight twist to it and we trim the bottom edge to make the back lay flat on the wearer. The distance on the left and right in your photos is pretty glaring, but I think we are talking 1/4 of an inch. I am not sure if trimming 1/4 inch off the inner curve of the left side will fix things, or make them worse. Give me a couple hours to get home and check. How does that back plate look when standing up right? Can you see the differences of the two lengths along that bottom edge? -Jeff

I'll be at Dragoncon, probably hanging out in the Marriott Lobby almost every night shooting video.

BSN recently cleaned up their computer servers, and moved a lot of info into the archives... click below to see years and years of discussion info about Biker Scout Helmets. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showforum=6

Nice solution to the single rivet issue. I do plan on adding extra height to our "riser plate" to allow for an easier riveting for the Elites. Right now the mods are scheduled for November/December. Doesn't help the fans in the meantime, but it is something that I am aware of. I wonder if I can create a makeshift wooden plate solution in the meantime? Just thought of that... hmmmm. -Jeff

The one concern I have about the SC armor and height challenged females, is the width of the chest plate. The female rib cage generally is slimmer than the male rib cage and a few women in the past have mentioned that they had to trim a lot of the SC chest and back on the sides of the armor, to get it to not be flared out so much. I believe Jedijennie went with the Glover/Casters Armor because of this, correct?

Congrats on this guys. It's awesome to see! You all worked hard on making this a possibility.

Whoa! Who recast Mike's armor? We'll all hunt the $&*%# down and recast his head!!!!! -jeff