StudioCreations

Sure, I'll take a straight on photo today and try to post it tonight. Chef... Oh, yes, please post images of what you are referring to. A longer back tail? or a deeper bevel? Images explain so much more than words, when it comes to props.

BSNers, We just pulled the first plastic off the vactable of our elbow mold upgrade. From what you can see in these two pictures, are there any tweaks we need to make other than sanding the mold smoother? Any feedback you have is welcome. We've been looking at this mold for too long and we have lost all objectivity on the subject. Thanks, -Jeff

I like your idea of removable ear parts. You can get a deep draw into those areas, and still get the plastic off the mold. Can't wait to see the first pulls!!!

Congrats on your new bouncing baby girl! We expect great things from her.

Darts suggestion of using 220 grit sandpaper and some wood/plastic files is a solid recommendation Round off any sharp edges where they might poke you while wearing the armor, sand any sharp edge smooth for the same reason, and use the files to clean up any distortion in the webbing holes.

Dude, that is awesome! Send me a Private Message here on theBSN and I'll hook you up with a free resin Tank Topper, Thermal Det Greeblies and Bicep Tbits! You deserve something for all that hard work you put into making this costume. YAHHH!!!!! Fantastic job!!!!!

This Lancer spec has baffled me since it was put on the books. I would love to know where this 1 3/8 inch measurement came from and why the CRL deems this size as accurate. My own research and blueprinting says the strap should be 37.875 mm or ~1.5 inches. I've taken multiple bluray screenshots and compared the Vader-Tie model section of the T-bit to the web strap as it comes out of the armor hole. They all come out to be 1.5 inches, (and in some screencaps, possibly bigger, as there is a fold that happens in the elastic strap) I can post picts tomorrow.

These parts look fantastic!!! Kudos, Dude! I agree with you on the HIPS... it's not as accurate or durable as ABS, but it sucks down much easier and takes heat way better. "Use what works," is always my motto when it comes to propmaking.

Dude, you are killing me, putting all those plastic edges and tools on that nice felt pool table. Please , please, put down some cardboard and protect the pool table surface. Oh, by the way, good job on the mods to the costume.

Here is a simple tutorial on how to use a rivet gun. http://studiocreations.com/howto/rivetingbuttoning/riveting.html

You can expect a 3% color shift in color between propmakers parts, as propmakers do not usually buy from the same sheet plastic manufacturer. And, even if they did, each batch of ABS plastic is a slightly different color than any other batch of ABS plastic, because ABS is not naturally white in color,. They have to hand-add a white pigment to the manufacturing process when they make the sheet plastic, and this causes variations in batch color.

Darthzemog, Oh, wow. This costume looks awesome!!!! You've done a bang up job with your build, I'd like to see the costume go up one more a notch! We updated the Kneecaps to be more accurate a month or so after you received your kit, and I would like to upgrade those parts for you for free. Send me a private message with your shipping address.

Excellent modifications to the suit, Panda! We are planning to add those return edges to the elbows, but not until the winter. For the T-bits, I recommend adding a 'raised rectangular bar' near the bottom of the T-bit "flat area" to take it to the next level of accuracy... see screencap below.... ...but... the 'raised bar' could be two raised bars side-by-side, as seen in this SW Bluray 'Behind the Scenes' image....

My Brother and I are partial to using a Coping Saw for cutting out visor windows. Drill a hole about 1/8 inch inside the cut line, thread your coping saw blade through the hole, connect it to the saw handle, then saw away. Takes about 10-15 minutes, and not as nerve wracking as a dremel tool.

OOoo, I see a Sandtrooper Armor in the background. Traitor!

I'll try to get a clean one , but ultimately I'll take whatever I can get. Price is of no concern. They can charge $999.00 and they'll get my money. It's by the far the most accurate Scout helmet released to date... cast from parts that came off the ILM molds. You can only get closer by casting a screen used helmet itself. Them using Fiberglass just means it will last longer than an ABS helmet.

You are doing a fantastic job on this helmet. i am blown away by the work that's been put into this already. KUDOS!

Because this is the bottom of the hump when it's sitting on the back plate, no one will notice the non-symetry of this area. Coupled with the fact there will be no Black gap happening because of the riser plate, you are doubly covered. The hump does sit tight on the raised area, and you'll have to hold it down with one hand (or a second set of hands) when rivetting/bolting the bottom of the hump to the back plate.

I've been so swamped this summer that I have not had time to assemble the new Scout yet. You still need that Strap sewing video, or are you beyond that now?

Ace, Send me your address via private message and I'll send you a thermal det box free of charge. Can't have you running around with no greeblies!

This image should help you.... http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/images/scout-back-leftside-chronicles.jpg ... notice how the back side connection point for the side box straps are not in the middle of the belt, but about 2-3 inches apart. The thigh boxes are not directly on the side of the leg, but just slightly towards the front.

I have a 23.5 inch head around the brow area and the helmet fits me, but I am known to wear small sized Motorcycle helmets. A deciding factor when contemplating a SC Helmet is: How tall is the top of your head?

The SC bucket is on the smaller side of things, so keep that in mind. We think it's because of the height of the dome more than anything, and we plan on dealing with that issue in the winter.

There is a low area in the mold in the left-side 'cheek' area, and we are addressing that now. The low area does not hinder or detract from the final look of the helmet, as it goes inward, not outward, but I totally see how it's distressing. I am not happy about it either. You look at this stuff for months on end, get weary and you miss things. As for the gap, we are assembling 3 helmets this weekend and we noticed that if you do not sit the dome perfect into the side divots of the temple areas of the back plate, when you go the glue the center back of the dome to the back plate, you will get a slight gap on the side of the helmet that is not seated perfectly. We are tweaking our instructions to reflect the need of watching this area when gluing. I think that is what happened with Kaltb's helmet, the dome is probably 1 mm off center and not lined up perfectly into the back plate,and it's riding high in the temple area, causing the back plate to be pushed away from the dome on that one side. I would have to inspect the helmet more to confirm though.

It will be showing up to D*C. Probably as a walk around costume on Saturday. We actually debutted the test pulls of this last year at D*C's 501st mixer. I'll probably add the armor kit to the DH2 site next week (early August).