StudioCreations

Congratulations. 400 troops is quite impressive!

Studio Creations scout armorer, Superkrates, ponied up the money to acquire a vintage 1980s Tamiya 1/6th scale FXE1200 SuperGlide Model and it is in our hands now. August is rather booked for both of us so we think September will see us adding resin copies of the #18 part to our Scout Kits. Urethane Rubber greeblies can be available on request, but you'll have to email us and coordinate their creation. That is a "special order" request. -Jeff

Amazing find. Thank you for letting us know of the grace period. Should vendors supply three T-greeblies for the next 6 months (2 rights, 1 left)?

Glad to see it arrived safely. That box-inside-a box design has been alife saver with these assembled armor shipments. No broken parts yet. How's the belt fit and/or curve around you??? We used the new "small belt" mold and it has only had a few people use it so far. -Jeff

Troy, Can you post a photo of the area in question? i am not sure what part of the costume you are referring to when you say "outside and inside of the top hole". Thanks, -Jeff

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Depending how you attach your two metal belt clips to the Thermal Det Pipe, you might need two (2) more Medium Length Rivets. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rivets used on the ROTJ Scouts are 1/8 inch Pop Rivets. Pop rivets come in two sizes in the USA, small 1/8 and large 3/16. They come in 3 lengths too: SHORT, MEDIUM AND LONG. I recommend using medium length rivets for the back hump and belt. and short length rivets for the knee armor. You will want to buy a small box of Rivet Backing Washers too. The washers keep the metal rivet from ripping through the soft plastic.

The SC Helmet is a Medium to Large helmet, and is considered only small in the “height” of the dome. That’s where it gets into trouble. If you have a head with a TALL crown, then the SC helmet sits too shallow on your head and is not easy to look out of. Those with tall crowns usually know that they have tall crowns, i.e. they are the people that always have to try on 20 baseball caps to find the 1 that fits right. The RS, Lonewolf and Kropserkel helmets all have taller domes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Send me your shipping address. I have a spare helmet decal sheet sitting here in my desk. No guarantee they will fit your back helmet indents, but never hurts to check. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I second the use of Novus Plastic Polish. Probably 1 or 2 is all you need. 3 is for super-supreme buffing of the surface. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't HAVE to paint them, as the rubber is black in color already. BUT, if you want a consistent sheen across the entire prop, it's best to paint them. I have not had a chance to finalize my paint job on this prop either. Maybe Wednesday or Thursday I can get around to painting them. It's been that kind of hectic summer for me.

I received in the mail this week a Polyurethane Rubber Scout Blaster from PolymerArmory.com . I was super psyched when he agreed to pour me a PU rubber blaster, as his hard resin Scout Blaster has always been one of my faves. The entire kit weighs in about 15 ounces. The rubber is solid throughout and rather hard. In this "barrel tip test" image you can see how much pressure I have to exert with my fingers (whitening finger pad) to get it to bend as much as I did. Notice how little the scope bends with one hand pressing it to the table. This replica will take a holster drop with no problems. The solid rubber means the screws will set into the walls with no fear of tear-outs either. I am very happy with this kit. No more fear of a shattered resin blaster. I'll post images of it painted (probably Krylon Fusion Satin black) once the weather clears and I can paint on my back deck.

I agree about the variations in shades from can to can, but I don't think it should be excluded because of that. For some Scout builders, Krylon might be the only paint they can find. Tamiya is definitely the most consistent paint that I can buy locally.

I have an extra set of tank stripe decals in my filing cabinets that I could send you for free. PM me your address. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Corey, It's possible that it's left over trimming from cutting the parts off the flashing, but that lip is really consistent, like it was molded into the part. I think CatfoodRob is onto something with the reinforced lip theory. The scene where Han Solo fights with the Biker Scout would be a great time to use a rubber stunt suit, but unfortunately the action doesn't allow for that many 'in-focus' shots of the armor... so determining an edge lip on that costume has been difficult. Another image of the 'lip' visible , this time from the front. Possibly this particular set of shoulders was only used on these close up "green screen' scenes???

This screen shot is from the close up when, during the speeder chase scene, the Biker Scout fires his blaster at Leia. I’ll have to upload the uncropped image to my website to show the full screen cap, this forum only allows 500k image uploads via their ‘attach image’ feature. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For years I have been looking at the Bluray of RotJ and have been thinking that there was a raised lip around some of the Shoulder Bells in certain shots. With the release of the fan-funded Star Wars 4k83 film, I think I have confirmation of this elusive raised lip. What does the hive-mind here think?

I’ll look on Amazon for a color bar. Thanks for suggestion. [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Paints came in faster than expected. Here’s the paint results shot side by side using some Scout Snout Greeblies. Left to right: - Krylon Colormaxx Gloss Classic Grey - Tamiya AS-11 Medium Sea Grey - Testors FS-36251 Model Master Navy Aggressor Grey - White Paper 20# - 96 Brightness Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran over to the hobby store that I’ve been going to for 20 years and low-and-behold they had closed their doors and are out of business. I mail-ordered my Testors and Tamiya paints today. All Paints should be in my hand by end of next week.

I’ll see if I can find some of this Krylon locally and compare against the others. I will post my results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am building a few scout helmets this week and I had to run out and get more grey paint for the Snouts and Hinge bolts. A couple people on these discussion boards have used TESTORS Model Master Navy Aggressor Gray and TAMIYA Dark Sea Grey. Both those colors look dark to me. Does anyone else have other recommendations for Grey Paint to be used on the Scout? I am looking for multiple views/ideas on the subject, because the more input, the better.

A while ago, my local HomeDepot stopped carrying the backing-washers for the 1/8th rivets so I started buying my rivet supplies from Lowes Hardware. The backing washer keeps the rivet from flairing through the plastic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk