Tarok Posted January 1, 2023 Share Posted January 1, 2023 Never before have my kids watched a SW movie or episode and said, “Dad, you have to do that costume next”. That is until they saw the Imperial Remnant Scouts in Mando. So, because I don’t have enough unfinished projects on my workbench I figured, what’s one more… This is my WIP thread, no guarantees on speed or duration of costume build… Hard goods: Helmet: Manufacturer: Altman Pre-weathering photos: here Weathered: here Armour: Manufacturer: Creative Studios Shoulder Armour: build and weathering here Upper Arm Armour: build and weathering here Forearm Armour: build and weathering here Chest Armour: build and weathering here Back Armour: build and weathering here Belt: Build and weathering here Thermal Detonator: build and weathering here Knee Armour: build and weathering here Holster: build and weathering here Soft goods: Flightsuit: Manufacturer: Imperial Boots Out of the box photos: here Balaclava Manufacturer: Under Armour Photo: here Neck Seal: Manufacturer: Darman's Props Photo: here Cummerbund, Codpiece and Pouches: Manufacturer: Kriptontop Out of the box photos: here Weathered: here Gloves: Manufacturer: Wampa Wear Photos: here Boots: Manufacturer: self Build and finishing: here Optional Parts: Messenger Bag ("Tote Bag"): Manufacturer: 1138 Replicas Out of box photos: here Weathered: here Hold-out Blaster: Manufacturer: To be printed using 3D Props NL’s files (probably) Weathering techniques: I’m a fan of Christine’s approach to using oils for weathering. As former scale modeller and having using the techniques on a recent prop, I’ll likely take that approach again for the scout. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 1, 2023 Share Posted January 1, 2023 Awesome! Looking forward to seeing things come together. If you have any questions, just ask. The armory team is here to help you succeed! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted January 1, 2023 Share Posted January 1, 2023 Fantastic to hear! Take your time and go at a speed that is comfortable to you. We'll be here should you need us. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted January 6, 2023 Author Share Posted January 6, 2023 Helmet: Manufacturer: Altman (Aka Spike on PFD) Received: December 2022 I intend weathering all hard parts at the same time, which will be a later in the year and a subsequent post. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted January 8, 2023 Author Share Posted January 8, 2023 Flightsuit: Manufacturer: Imperial Boots Received: December 2022 I haven't to date seen any Remnant Scout builds posted here featuring the IB OT Tie Pilot flightsuit (admittedly I may simply have missed them), so hopefully these photos will be of use to others. That said, several pilots in my garrison wear the IB flightsuit. According to the IB size chart, I fall somewhere between Medium and Large. Whilst the Medium theoretically would fit me, I tried a suit from a garrison mate which he claimed to be of that size, to find it too small. In speaking to another garrison mate about his large size, at 1.8m (or 6') but with the beanpole frame of a gangling youth, he felt it a tad too big. As I'm 1.76m (about 5'10"), that would be rather baggy on me, and as one wants a more fitted suit for a scout, I took a chance and ordered the Medium. The suit arrived late December 2022, and I was relieved that it fits properly. It's not too baggy, there's no "wedgy", and most importantly I can sit! I'll post up photos suited up in future, but for now the below address how the suit meets the CRL. The CRL appears to be missing some text in regards to the dimensions of the cargo pocket. A legacy of copy & paste from the OT Tie CRL (which is also missing the text). I've assumed it refers to the length of the pocket. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FogOut Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Looking forward to your weathering work!! Welcome to the Remnant community, forgotten warriors of the empire.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted January 10, 2023 Author Share Posted January 10, 2023 Thanks @FogOut. Your WIP is one of my "go-to" references for this build 🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 28, 2023 Author Share Posted August 28, 2023 Gloves: Manufacturer: Wampa Wear Received: March/April 2023 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 28, 2023 Author Share Posted August 28, 2023 Cummerbund, Codpiece and Pouches: Manufacturer: Kriptontop (also know as CB Props - I think) Received: June/July 2023 Amazing work by CB. Quality is fantastic, and the turnabout is really quick. As before, weathering will follow later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 28, 2023 Author Share Posted August 28, 2023 Tote Bag: Manufacturer: 1138 Replicas Received: January 2023 Bag still needs weathering (i.e. a tea bath... Earl Grey... Hot.... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 28, 2023 Author Share Posted August 28, 2023 Been a while since I updated this thread - apologies for the above spam 🙂 Armour has been received too, however no point in photo'ing a BBB, is just a brown box LOL As the strapping on the Remnant Scout is different to that of ROTJ, I've ordered new webbing and elastics from a couple of local places. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 30, 2023 Author Share Posted August 30, 2023 Helmet: Manufacturer: Altman (Aka Spike on PFD) ...... @BikerScout007 @Chopper Could I get please an opinion from a staff member or armourer: The L2 requirements for the helmet reads: Optional: For the 'Back and Cap' style bucket constructions, fill the seam around the top of the dome so it is not visible. Is that to say for "back and cap" style helmets filling the seam is optional? Or am I required to make it appear seamless? I'm a bit loath the have to paint unnecessarily but I reckon, given that area will be covered by weathering, I could potentially get away filling it with a paintable, flexible caulk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 30, 2023 Author Share Posted August 30, 2023 @BikerScout007 @Chopper Another one I wouldn't mind getting a L2 opinion on: 1.5" Poly Pro webbing and 1" ribbed elastic. The box says it's the right stuff, but will it pass the CRL? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted August 30, 2023 Share Posted August 30, 2023 Your decals are ok Filling in the helmet seam is optional for Level 2 The webbing you posted in the photos is ok 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted August 30, 2023 Author Share Posted August 30, 2023 Thanks @Chopper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted September 4, 2023 Author Share Posted September 4, 2023 Looking for some feedback from the brains trust I’ve done a first pass of an Earl Grey tea dye. Do you reckon it needs another dip? The colouring is very subtle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 The tea weathering on the mando scout soft goods is mostly just to take the edge off the brightness of the white. From your photos, I don't think you need to do more. The rest of the weathering comes from applying the sand coloring to it, same as with the armor. See Christina's build, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21567-scout-trooper-the-mandalorian-approved-christinas-build/page/2/ and the screen suit at SDCC, here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/topic/21147-sdcc-mandalorian-scout-reference/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted September 4, 2023 Author Share Posted September 4, 2023 Thanks @Chopper . That’s what I suspected, but then the self-doubt crept in. I figured easier to ask now before laying down the oils Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted October 8, 2023 Author Share Posted October 8, 2023 My posts from here forth aren't necessarily in chronological order, as I'm trying to keep them per costume part. Thermal Detonator I decided to start my favourite part of the build, namely weathering, with the thermal detonator. But first, the build. I started by gluing the end caps to the ribbed tube using e-6000. I wanted a bit of working time to position the caps if they shifted. I found the easiest way was to position the tube upright in my bench vice, apply the glue, and tape the caps in place while the glue set. The TD greeblies were CA'ed into place, and given a quick spritz of Zip Kicker. Those were left overnight before the tube was fixed to the box via the cable tie. While I was at it, I decided to fit a pair of clips. They were pretty tight, and needed some stretching out. These were screwed into place using a couple of wood screws (thanks for the tip [mention=78054]BikerScout007[/mention] ). Onto the painting. My preferred medium is artist oils. I'd previously used these on a B1 droid prop, but seeing [mention=82250]TKZombie[/mention] 's build made up my mind. The entire part, including the tube, was given a good coat of Raw Umber. To be honest I wasn't sure if the tube should be weathered, but it made sense that it should. Once the part was coated, the paint was then wiped off using paper towel. I went softer in places I though dirt might gather. Once I was happy with the amount of paint remaining, I proceeded to dab, or stipple, the paint with the paper towel, removing any obvious wipe marks or streaks. I thought I'd give adding some Burnt Sienna a go. I added it in select spots and blended it in. To be honest I'm not a fan. It looks too red. I'll see how it dries through the week and make a call. I think the paint surrounding the greeblies can do with a bit more stippling (with a clean brush). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted October 8, 2023 Author Share Posted October 8, 2023 Knee Armour The knee armour is definitely one of the easier parts of this build. The SC parts didn't need much more than a cursory sand along the edges and the elastic slots cut, which were done quickly with a Dremel cutting disc. Thereafter, I glued the black 25mm ribbed elastic into place. I decided to hot glue the elastic as I wasn't in the mood to wait for e-6000 to dry before gluing an opposite end Fast forward a week, and time to paint. Once again, the part was lathered in Raw Umber before being wiped down and dabbed. However this time I added a bit of Burnt Sienna in key spots first. By doing it this way, the wipe down served to blend to a certain degree - or at least that's what I told myself lol... sigh.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted October 14, 2023 Author Share Posted October 14, 2023 Forearm Armour The SC forearms seem to be styled for Popeye, or at least someone who's seem the inside of a gym more than me After cutting the elastic slots and giving the edges a quick sand, I put both forearms into a jig and gave them a quick heat with a heatgun (one definitely wants to be careful one doesn't overheat parts). Once warm enough I gently closed the jig until I got to my desired width. Once they'd cooled, the 25mm ribbed elastic was once again fixed using hotglue. Fast forward to today: painting day! The same "wax on, wax off" technique was used applying the Raw Umber oil paint. However this time I used a sea sponge to stipple the paint in the gathered areas. I am however concerned that I may have removed a bit much this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted October 14, 2023 Author Share Posted October 14, 2023 Upper Arm Armour: (aka bicep armour ) The SC biceps don't have pre-marked slots, so after having a look at various references (other builds on this fine forum, screen grabs and the SDCC mannequin), I finally guestimated a point, closed my eyes and cut (not literally, but you get the idea ). Being somewhat chuffed with my jury rig jig, I used it for the biceps too, curling them in a couple of centimeters (that's about an inch, or about 1/8 of a standard banana if you prefer that unit of measure). The greebles were once again super glued into place and given a light spray of Zip Kicker to accelerate the curing process. The method for painting these 2 parts was pretty much the same as the forearms, although I appear not to have removed as much paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted October 14, 2023 Share Posted October 14, 2023 Nice work! Just be mindful that the elastic will be under tension while trooping, especially when pulling on the elastics as you put on and take off the armor. Hot glue will fail eventually, especially if stored in really hot or cold environments. If you’re looking for quick adhesion then consider using CA glue and hitting it with some accelerator like NCF quick aerosol spray for an instant bond. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted October 15, 2023 Author Share Posted October 15, 2023 Nice work! Just be mindful that the elastic will be under tension while trooping, especially when pulling on the elastics as you put on and take off the armor. Hot glue will fail eventually, especially if stored in really hot or cold environments. If you’re looking for quick adhesion then consider using CA glue and hitting it with some accelerator like NCF quick aerosol spray for an instant bond. Thanks @Aradun . In retrospect I should have stuck to my tried and tested approach of e6000, but I wanted to give this a go. Lesson learned though about the hot glue: a webbing snap plate pulled out when I was testing something else this afternoon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarok Posted October 18, 2023 Author Share Posted October 18, 2023 @Aradun @Chopper I noticed that the WTF (I think that’s what the CRL model’s are) and SC hip boxes are a bit different. I’m specifically referring to the side, where the SC box features a rectangular indent whereas WTFs indent runs from the top (see image). I have the SC kit.My question is 2-fold:1) where should I be making my webbing slot cut? At the top or the bottom of the rectangular indent?2) does this difference in the boxes prevent the SC kit from being approved for L2?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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