Aradun Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Using the plastic from the face shield was genius. The finished result looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 Thanks - I was quite pleased with the result as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 13, 2022 Author Share Posted March 13, 2022 Question on the boots: what does the CRL mean by: "Dogbone ends above the toe strip on both sides." Is there a good visual for this? I am currently following this tutorial: Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 13, 2022 Share Posted March 13, 2022 It means that the dogbone should be glued like, or close to, this: And not glued over the toe strip or onto the sides of the soles, like this: (Example is from a Lancer app where it came up) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 13, 2022 Author Share Posted March 13, 2022 Gotcha - makes sense to me! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreeHuggerMatt Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 On 3/7/2022 at 3:48 AM, AradunFF said: Using the plastic from the face shield was genius. The finished result looks great! yeah it was. thats gone on my little notebook of tips to steal..I mean borrow 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 Boots time! Thanks to @cheesewhoopy's great tutorial and @AradunFF's WIP + the handy tip about how to glue the dogbone from @Chopper - I made the boots! Thanks y'all! Got the dogbone positioned above the toe strip. The glue is still drying - but I am anxious to try them on soon. Looking back at the pictures I shared vs the originals, I noticed that my marine vinyl/leather has some texture to it. I hope that won't be an issue. (sitting on pins and needles now) 😕 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 Alright, with the other soft pieces in place, I am finally circling back to the riding patches. Based on a combo of the dimensions from: and I was able to made some templates for myself. Before I cut into my suede - I wanted to see what y'all thought. Are the front and back thigh patches correct? I pinned the templates in place to help get a good visual. Front patch (ends just above the knee): Back patch: The "butt flap": My gut feeling on the butt flap was that it was a couple inches to wide and ok on length. However, any feedback would be great. To help see it all together, I also put on the codpiece and cummerbund: Front patch is rounded, so it disappears under the codpiece without leaving an edge: Back flap/back patch: Any feedback/suggestions are welcome - thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 19, 2022 Share Posted March 19, 2022 Nice work. I'd say there's a bit too much material on the back riding patches, so I've marked in green about where it should be. The butt flap is a little tricky to judge without the belt as a point of reference, but I've again marked in green about where I think it should get trimmed down. The butt flap wasn't very big -- see screenshot below. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 Thanks for the feedback @Chopper! 32 minutes ago, Chopper said: Nice work. I'd say there's a bit too much material on the back riding patches, so I've marked in green about where it should be. The butt flap is a little tricky to judge without the belt as a point of reference, but I've again marked in green about where I think it should get trimmed down. The butt flap wasn't very big -- see screenshot below. Thanks so much for drawing on the pictures - that helps a bunch! I'll make some corrections and re-post updates here. Also thanks for the reference picture - I was having a hard time finding a good picture of the back that showed a good angle. Did my earlier post of the boots look alright (sorry to jump thoughts here - been worried a bit about them)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted March 19, 2022 Share Posted March 19, 2022 You did a really solid job with the boot construction. My only real concern is the amount of pebbled texture on the vinyl -- this is something that's come up recently in a few builds. And to be clear, that's not a basic clearance issue, it's more to do with Level 2. But yeah, that's the only real item that I can see. I'd encourage you to keep going with your build for basic clearance and you can worry about that sort of thing later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted March 19, 2022 Author Share Posted March 19, 2022 10 minutes ago, Chopper said: You did a really solid job with the boot construction. My only real concern is the amount of pebbled texture on the vinyl -- this is something that's come up recently in a few builds. And to be clear, that's not a basic clearance issue, it's more to do with Level 2. But yeah, that's the only real item that I can see. I'd encourage you to keep going with your build for basic clearance and you can worry about that sort of thing later. Awesome - thanks! Good to know - glad it won't be an issue for basic clearance. I plan to go for Level 2 eventually, but I will cross that bridge later as recommend. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jennyruth Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Hi, @Cpt_Chops! I was looking browsing for some butt flap sizing tips and found your WIP. I'm in Alabama and working on a 3D Scout too. It looks like you're making great progress. I look forward to seeing it all come together! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted April 17, 2022 Author Share Posted April 17, 2022 Thanks @jennyruth! Best of luck with your 3D printed Scout! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 Finally got back to take another look at this. Based on the CRL and your suggestions, I trimmed up the mud flap and butt flap quite a bit. I think it is looking good now. I don't have the belt completed, but I tried to hold it roughly in place. Is this what you had in mind @Chopper? Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Yeah, that mud flap looks about dead on. Nice work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 Fantastic - thanks @Chopper! Now time to cut into my suede and make the real ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 The suede patches are on! Thanks so much to @Chopper, and some great WIP's: I tried to stand in the light, but they are still a bit hard to see. With that - I think I am done with the soft parts! Woohoo! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Fantastic work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted April 25, 2022 Author Share Posted April 25, 2022 Thanks @AradunFF! Question: would it be acceptable to "fake" the rivets for the knee armor (and likely the other rivets as well). Since I 3D printed my armor, I am worried that actually putting the rivets into the armor and then expanding it will cause the print to crack down a build seam. So I was wondering if I could either: 1) Cut the rivet stem off and glue the rivet head in place (to give the appearance of the rivet without the stress on the joint) or 2) Expand the rivet outside of the armor such that the stem breaks off, then drill out the knee armor hole to fit the enlarged rivet and then glue the rivet in place. Both methods would give the appearance of the rivet without the risk of damaging the 3D printed parts; however, before I went down either one of these paths I wanted to confirm that it would be acceptable. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Hmm yeah I can see why that might cause some concern with 3D printed parts. In this instance, as long as we can't tell the difference from the outside, and as long you're using a real rivet head, then it should be ok. Of your two options, I think #2 is the better one. Metal to plastic adhesion isn't terrific, so having the hole will definitely help. The strapping will need to look like it's riveted at those two points on the knee, so you'll likely need to glue it in place along with the rivet head as well. Measure twice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kayelbe Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 8 hours ago, Cpt_Chops said: Since I 3D printed my armor, I am worried that actually putting the rivets into the armor and then expanding it will cause the print to crack down a build seam. 2) Expand the rivet outside of the armor such that the stem breaks off, then drill out the knee armor hole to fit the enlarged rivet and then glue the rivet in place Thanks! It will crack. Ask me how I know I did your option 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 For option #2, why compress the rivet? I’m fairly certain that you can tap out the mandrel stem, which will leave you with a perfect shaft rather than one that is bulbous due to being compressed. You’ll also know the right size drill to use so you’ll get the hole diameter right the first time, and that hole will be a much smaller diameter than one for a compressed rivet. Lastly, choose the smallest pin head possible so that when you insert it into the hole and glue it in place you don’t have much sticking out on the inside of the knee armor. I suspect that it will rub and wear the strapping if the strapping is glued over the pin to give the appearance that the rivet is actually functional. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt_Chops Posted April 27, 2022 Author Share Posted April 27, 2022 Thanks @AradunFF and @Chopper - that method for the rivets worked great. Very happy to not crack one of the prints Now I am happy to share some armor updates. Thanks to some nice weather, I finally got the last coat of white on and a few layers of clear coat as well. Completed Knee Armor: Forearm armor: Belt Boxes: And shoulder armor: 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted April 27, 2022 Share Posted April 27, 2022 Good news. Good plan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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