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chilledmilk's Kashyyyk build


chilledmilk

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do you think this sticks out far enough from back plate, from what images i got off site i think its about the same distance/size of tank on backplate.

IMAG0137_zps91530fb2.jpg

 

 

and from what iv been able to get from the ABS/HIPS goo its toothpaste consistency. not really pourable. i might be doing it right, his looks like the plastic and acetone mixxed together, mine is just a liquid blob in bottom of jar full of acetone, am i doing it wrong? ie over saturating plastic in acetone

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@ chilled - yep looking good. would like a side view though

remember that the bikerchick set is based on pghfett molds - mikes sculpt was based on limited screen grabs, MB version is fatter and stouter - as per the later high res pics available.

 

Bikerchick

3799b49b-3f00-4223-8018-f8e52ac89027_zps5d7fe363.jpg

 

MB version

241020091407_zps3005781d.jpg

 

screen grab

41stelite_zps2c0f1838.png

 

@ bwatssup - the consistency I would recommend is more like peanut butter or toothpaste as mentioned earlier. I 'spoon' mine on with a ice cream stick. The moment the goo leaves the acetone it almost immediately starts to "skin" . USE GLOVES guys. Problem with pouring it in and using large volumes of the goo - remember the solvent ie acetone - will also soften your native plastic. No it does eat it like acid, but if you are using it at edges where thin plastic is, it can warp it.

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wow that looks pretty good

is that how BC is recommending you put it together? My pics were the MB version of the armour.

 

heres how mine looks from the side (base coat of paint is already on) - taking into account the differences in the tank shape, think its pretty good approximation!

 

IMG_20110114_080009-1_zps1fbf85c5.jpg

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no think she recommends shaping the tank and getting it to stick to backplate, i just assumed cutting a hole and slipping it through was easier, i guesstamated the distance it gota stick through from that reference pic of the troopers on the ridge shooting down, it gives a good shot of that top greeb and how far it is away on neck line and such. now i know that is about as good as its gonna get ill tape it down and trim off the trash on inside and get it mounted good and tight.

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- its outlined in the Mr Bungle and My build threads mate - but a quick run through

- you can weather in 2 ways - topical (ie base coat then add the silver) or layered (as the pic above)

- from a distance, the 2 probably dont look that much different, and topical is less time consuming

- for a layered method, you prime your armour, then paint on your chrome layer.

- once thats dry, you apply masking fluid. there are actual products in model shops; and its usually a latex based fluid. Apply and let it dry. then you spray the next layer on. A cheaters method some cloners use is to use a viscus fluid like mustard. This doesnt have to completely dry, before you apply the next coat of colour. Once all paint is dry, you rub off the masking fluid/mustard. The paint actually lifts off more at the margins, giving you that extra uneveness, that looks very nice up close. You can apply in masking fluid in blotches, but then I streak it a bit too, to give it that scratched and scrapped look

- lastly, and you DONT need to do this, but picked up this little trick from Fett painters, you can see that there is some dark outlines on the edges of my scratches, that is applied sparsely, but with a brush. Its dark grey. It not continuous and less is more for this effect. It makes the scratch 'pop' out

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alright, do you guys suggest attaching the knee straps and arm strap on armor now before i paint so when i paint the rubber strap the paint is dried in shape it has to be or wait to attach it after all is painted? and how would you attach them? E6000?

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I was gonna use something like "pasti-dip for the greebs... It's pretty much just coloured liquid rubber, then once it's dry it's still flexible.

 

http://plastidip.com/whats_new.php

 

Performix Brand 11 oz. GunMetal Gray Plasti Dip Spray

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I haven't found a great way to attach the rubber straps for the forearm armor. I'm using two black elastic strips on each for now. I do plan to print off some housings out of ABS to slide the rubber straps into and lock them down with screws. I just need to do the cad work.

 

It took me several attempts to get the knee straps to adhere. If they fall off again I'm doing the same thing I plan to do for the forearms (build housings). I took my dremel and scuffed the bejeezus out of the sides that I planned to attach to the plastic. Once significantly rough I spread some e6k on the rubber surface and waited about 5 minutes. I then clamped it down onto the plastic as hard as possible. On the third or fourth try it finally stuck. I also got out some RTV caulking and sealed up the edges to add some extra strength to the bond.

 

I did all this after painting.

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If these are the BikerChick greeblies, could somebody post a few pictures of them? (Elbow and knee straps.) I haven't seen them yet. I'm used to the MrBungle version.

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same here, the MB version as a polyurethane rubber

 

i scored my rubber with a scalpel and ca glued velcro onto em

e6000 should work just as well.

 

my mb straps took grey primer pretty good. painted than stuck on

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i dont know what the black square is for. so i posted that too.

 

 

The black square goes on the inside of the left bicep. You can just see in this pic (it's all I got for right now). Click to expand.

 

th_drew.jpg

 

It's best to attach that and then trim the rubber straps to fit. I used e6k and the rtv to get everything to stick right. Again, scuff the back surface to Mustafar and back and then clean with rubbing alcohol to prime the surface for the adhesive.

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Ha! That's great.

Blend it into the camo on the backside of one of your shins. Nobody looks at the shins or feet, except us. B)

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