Jump to content

MrMike

PFD Recruit
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

7 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California

501st Information

  • Name
    Michael

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This design seems new. Before, the bolt used to be attached to the visor part and there was a hole on the back part where your current bolt is (Image 1 for reference). What I did to make mines functional was drill a hole and put in a screw with a washer to keep it tightened so the visor doesn't keep falling down and did the same for the other side (image 2). Since I drilled through the visor, I made a fake circular cover for it (image 3).
  2. Congratulations!! Do the Empire proud! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Hey everyone, latest update! These pieces below are completed and painted. Going to use a Dremel soon to cut a slit for strapping on the upper arm armor. A forearm armor piece is missing from this picture because the painting is not yet completed. As for the one in the picture, I put in the strap and it fits great! The knee armor pieces are strapped and have been tested, they also fit great. Going to add in the second straps using rivets soon. Finally, I forgot those drop box strap slits are too big. Probably going to add in some styrene to make it appear smaller. I decided to do these parts first since they're easy sand up and paint. Here is what I've got next: - New DLT-19 prop just arrived earlier today, going to be working on that tomorrow. - Ordered some work boots and marine vinyl to start working on DIY scout boots. Also ordered a balaclava, new parachute buckles, and some black decal tape to put on the back tank. These things also should arrive tomorrow. - Going to try and use a heat gun to make the shoulder bell appear more rounded since it came looking pointy. I will be working on the above in the meantime until I get my new helmet and front chest pieces, will update you all soon!
  4. Here's my first finished knee armor piece. Forearm, upper arm, and drop boxes should be finished tomorrow. Current method I'm using in order: Sand base piece with 80, 100, then 150. Applied bondo using bondo/acetone method, also used bondo by itself to fill difficult lines/cracks. Sanded bondo with 150, 220. Sprayed Rustoleum filler primer on piece, wet-sanded with 1K grit. Sprayed Rustoleum gloss white on piece, softly and gently wet-sanded with 1K grit on areas with runs or other imperfections (still learning how to use spray paint without making runs!). Finally, applied Rustoleum clearcoat gloss. Let me know what you guys think how the final piece came out. Any advice or suggestions to the final piece or my method welcomed!!
  5. Hey everyone, currently on the sanding and painting portion of the build. I’m sanding up and spraying painting the arm parts as well the knee parts. Going to hold on the helmet part and chest parts since I’m getting the new approved parts for stickers. Will send update pics soon! Since these are 3D printed parts, I thought of a question while painting: will very small print lines or small paint runs affect approval? Are close up pictures of each armor part also included with the approval process? Of course I’ve been trying my best to fill and sand down print lines but as I was painting, there were some of the smallest print lines you can only see if you put your face up to the part.
  6. My current update: I'm getting a new 3D printed chest piece with the gray rectangle box area. Also thinking about getting a new helmet back-piece since the current one I have comes with 3D printed vents 👎 Though as mentioned in my first post, what didn't come with my kit was the chin strap and thermal detonator parts. I was thinking about buying those pieces plus a new holster from MonCal Props but what came up to my mind was: Would it be approvable to have some ABS plastic parts on your armor even though the rest of it is 3D printed? Thanks for all the recent help guys!
  7. I ordered my kit around that time it got updated which makes sense why I have the older version. Just asked if they'd be willing to get me the new version and they said yes. Thanks for your suggestion for making the indentation! Thanks for the suggestions on how to cut through for the indentation. I'll be looking forward to getting a newly approved holster model as well. I also left some questions for the assessment you made I hope could be answered Thank you guys for the help, will update progress soon!
  8. Correct, its 3D printed just not printed by me. I also found it odd its not there as well but that's my fault for not noticing it when looking at GA's storefront image for the armor: If I were to at least try and carve the rectangle box any suggestions on the best way to do it? If I mess up I can just buy a new chest piece anyway. Thanks for the help!
  9. Howdy everyone, I'm ready and excited to start building my scout trooper! I've already done some research and taken notes from other posts, as well gotten some questions answered by other members on the forum but I still have a few more questions! To begin, my armor set is from the new Galactic Armory files. Sadly I don't own a 3D printer so I purchased the kit from 3Dcauldron which they made to fit my body size. However, when I bought it the assessment made by MrPoopie wasn't out yet and I didn't do enough research to see that the armor will require some modification for approval. Picture 1 is the entire set I got, just missing thermal detonator, tank top greeble, and chin strap. So far I've only got two questions for modifying this kit: 1. Since the entire armor kit was adjusted and printed to fit my body size, I'm 5'5" and really skinny so my belt pretty much shrunk to a small size. I watched the armor build video and noticed that 1.5 inch webbing is supposed to go through the front belt slits but since my belt shrunk it fits only 1 inch webbing. Is my belt too small/shrunk to be approved or will it still be acceptable? (Picture 2) 2. I don't know how I missed this but the chest armor is missing a grey box area! I was thinking about making a box area by carving one into the armor with something like a drill press then filling/smoothing out with putty. Would it really be a good idea to go this way and if so any suggestions on the best way to carve a box area? Just trying to see if I could go this way instead of getting a completely new chest armor plate. (Picture 3) I can go for ordering new armor parts to be made that would be approved, its just that I want to see if I can save some money by modifying and adjusting these parts first. Sorry if these are dumb questions!! Any input would be appreciated!
  10. Hi! I have a few questions: 1. I can't notice the slight wavy curve mentioned for the helmet and was wondering if there is a visualization to compare and see where that sneaky curve is 2. I think you forgot to include the H-04 figure/picture, it seems to be missing from the link you sent 3. The GA tank seems to even/align itself with the top of the back armor, is that OK for approval? 4. The back armor also comes with holes so the tank can fit itself in. Should that be kept or is it best to go with the back-straps instead? Thanks for this assessment!!
  11. Thank you guys for the information!
  12. Hi Dom, I also have a Galactic Armory scout helmet I'll soon be working on. Mines came with molded vents but I noticed you were able to remove them in this picture. Any suggestions on the proper way to remove them? Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...