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jennyruth

501st Pathfinder
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Everything posted by jennyruth

  1. jennyruth
    Thank you so much! It was an enormous pain, so I'm glad to have it out of the way. Not too far from being done with my soft parts now. Also, thank you for documenting your RS helmet modifications. I will be doing the same and will be using your WIP. Even if not for getting close to Lancer specs, I need air flow in there! I will have to add a little padding inside to align it better with my eyes, but I was surprised it wasn't overly large for my head, like the rest of their armor was on me.
  2. jennyruth
    Are there better options or is this a good way to go?
  3. jennyruth
    It was kinda hard to get a good picture. There’s some there for sure. Not too bad but may be too much?
  4. jennyruth
    If I never have to do this again, I’ll be a happy person. So, I want to make sure I’ve for some durable vinyl. Is the white marine vinyl I bought from Joann Fabrics gonna be good enough, or do I need to get something else?
  5. jennyruth
    Not gonna lie, this is barrels of fun. (Sarcasm ) But, the weather wasn’t too bad for wearing a respirator and goggles in the garage in summer, so I tried to get as much as I could done this evening. How does the depth look? Any other tips? For anyone wondering, these are the Dremel bits I am using. Somehow I missed getting the number of the conical shaped one on the picture. It’s 953. And, it’s super helpful for me to use the flexible shaft attachment.
  6. jennyruth
    It’s the difference in tanning/dyeing the leather. Chromium and other chemicals and salts are used in the chrome method and not in the other. Typically chrome-free is considered a more natural process and less harmful to the environment. But the leather pieces themselves are pretty much the same to our eyes.
  7. jennyruth
    The cow suede is nice and soft, but it is thicker and heavier than the pigskin. It will be more difficult to sew and to move around in. It does look like Tandy’s black is sold out at the moment in the chrome free, but there are some black hides available with the chrome processed. https://tandyleather.com/products/pigskin-suede You could also call a Tandy that may be close to you and see what they’ve got in stock. My local store has always been good to ship when needed.
  8. jennyruth
    I hope it works for you!
  9. jennyruth
    This grinding/sharpening but was what I had on hand that worked. I’m gonna pick up some smaller ones in the same line to help with the smaller spaces and corners. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-Aluminum-Oxide-3-8-in-Grinding-Sharpening-Bit-Accessory/50015926
  10. jennyruth
    I have a leather burning tool that came with a hot knife blade attachment. Perhaps not the best one or my shoes just don’t want to be cut. Regardless, it was not promising. So, I grabbed my Dremel. I vote it “Most Likely to Get the Job Done.” It will take many, many sweaty hours in my garage, but I think this is the best chance. I need to clean up the corners somehow, but I think it could work.
  11. jennyruth
    Yeah, these are a high quality boot, so that may be working against me right now. I have seen someone say they used a hot knife for theirs, like @DarthSnark said. I may see what my dremel will do, but I think I might get cleaner edges with a hot knife. Fun times Thanks so much!
  12. jennyruth
    Yes, that’s pretty much how I was doing it. I did try just the regular one and got farther with it, but I just can’t get the chisel to really make much of a dent. I might as well be trying to sue a butter knife. I even got my husband to try and help. So, this one is looking bad at the moment, but I picked one on the inside to try first in case it didn’t go so well, which proved to be a good decision 😂 It can be cleaned up, though. But now I can’t really go back.
  13. jennyruth
    Ok, so, cutting the boot soles. Exacto knife cuts but not efficiently or prettily. I got a chisel blade as I saw suggested somewhere. I can really only get it to push the rubber. What am doing wrong? Is there a better way? Surely there’s a better way. A way That’s probably even safer than me digging into a surface that’s not intended to be cut with an extraordinarily sharp blade that could easily send me to get stitches.
  14. jennyruth
    I get that! The ones I got on Poshmark were used, but barely. Check out those two sites, or eBay even, and you might can find some used ones.
  15. jennyruth
    It’s a challenge, right? The work boots most use don’t come in my size and neither do the completed boots that are sold. I found some Timberland boots that are a little older style and have a solid color tan sole. I think they are called Timberland women’s originals or something like that. I had to order them off of Poshmark to get the one-color sole. So, I don’t have a link But that was a while back, so I don’t know if they’ve changed any new styles. It was the most successful boot I’ve found. I don’t know what your shadow scout boot is supposed to look like though. You can always paint the sole if you can’t get it exactly right. But try a search in Poshmark or Mercari and see what you can find. I had to be patient to find my size. And goodness knows, I’m terrified of messing up by cuts or having to replace them one day because who knows what I can find then 😂
  16. jennyruth
    We're Pathfinders. If I can help clear a path for others, I'll do whatever I can But, for real, people have been so gracious to me here. No costume is easy. If my struggle can help anyone else, I'll post anything I can. If it's not here, just ask. It may not be the best way or the easiest way, but I'll always share.
  17. jennyruth
    OK, I just made a post on my WIP in case it helps others too. Let me know if you have questions.
  18. jennyruth
    I've been asked about the pattern I used to make my jacket. It was actually a shirt pattern (and likely two shirt patterns) that I modified for the jacket. The one I noted on my pattern that I modified was this one. I believe I had already made a shirt modified from this for my Endor Leia, so I knew how to make it fit. However, this pattern is one I used for a previous project, and use a lot for shirt bases. I carried over a version of the bust and waist darts from it to give the jacket some shape and a tailored look. So much so that I want to make myself an everyday jacket to wear in real life. Here is what my pattern pieces ended up looking like after a mockup or two. You can get an idea of the size by the 1" grid squares on my cutting board. I used 1/2" seams. Sorry my pencil marks are hard to see, but I tried to get close-ups on important instructions. I made the overlap on the same side as my pants and the same as the other flight suits for sale so that the neck wrap would look like everyone else's (but if I made pants again, I'd probably just do an elastic waist because . . . lessons from Covid eating). That's why there are two different front patterns. Basically, I just took the neckline up so that it came to the bottom of my neck so that when the collar was attached it would look like the Mandarin collar style. You could also probably find a jacket pattern with a mandarin collar. That may be easier. But I had already modified these patterns to fit me, so it was less work than starting all over. Jacket Front Right side (as I'm wearing it) Right size zipper instructions (You will want a SEPARATING zipper, so it can separate at the bottom like a coat, instead of staying closed.) I just found the length of jacket I wanted and then got a zipper that size, or close and adjusted my length a tiny bit. This is what the right side looks like when finished. Left Side Front Left side zipper instructions. The zipper teeth were placed 1" from the turned edge, and I stitched it 1 1/4" from that turned edge. Here's what the left side zipper and collar looks like finished. Back pattern (to be cut on the fold) Sleeve pattern. Yep, that's a lot of pattern changes you see That's why I spend a million years doing mock-ups. For the sleeve finish, I just rolled it and did an elastic band. To be honest, I got this inspiration from one of my running jackets. It seemed the easiest way to make the sleeves easy to put on without being floppy and without needing to sew a tab. But it's not super tight so that it will smush my arm with the gloves on. And, the collar pattern, to be cut on the fold. the length of this one will really be determined by how far it needs to wrap around your neck after completing the neckline the Velcro on it was the last thing I sewed. I also used a slim profile Velcro so that I didn't have a lot of bulk around my neck. Just make sure you leave yourself room in the collar for the balaclava. It seems small, but it takes up some space, and you don't want to feel like you are choking. And, if you have long hair that may be in a ponytail down your neck, that takes up more space. So just use care in planning. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm not an expert seamstress by any means, but I can try to help wherever I can.
  19. jennyruth
    Perfect. Yes, I have some Barges from my previous leather (and foam dabbling) work, so I'll go with that. And, yessss, it's already so hot and humid here, so that's a great thought to consider. It's basically hot for 9 months of the year, less hot for 2 months, and chilly for maybe one. haha
  20. jennyruth
    Awesome! Thank you! Any preferences of glue? I have heard Barges does better than Shoe Goo, and that’s what I’m used to with leather work.
  21. jennyruth
    I actually used a shirt pattern I had used before and modified it. Let me see if I can round up some stuff for you.
  22. jennyruth
    Thanks! My thoughts exactly with the rivet. I see that the Sierra’s are different around the toe too. I’m guessing the heel would look the same? I found a link to pictures of the shoe in cheesywhopper’s tutorial, but I couldn’t access it. At some point I found a post or section of pictures of original costumes, but I can’t find it again to save my life. This picture is very helpful. Maybe I’ll go stalk Crowprops pictures of his boot. Thank you!
  23. jennyruth
    While I’m waiting on more pouch fabric to come in, I decided to start on my boots. All the new fancy boots with the accurate soles don’t come in my 7.5 women’s size foot, so I get to make them the old fashioned way I’ve been staring a boot soles on the screen and then at the ones in my hand for what seems like days. So here’s a first attempt at penciling them on my boots. Thoughts? Also, the toe and heel areas of the boot don't have any notches. Do I just keep going around with the pattern as if they do? I noticed some people put rivets in their boots near where the upper vinyl and lower toe part overlap. Is this necessary?
  24. jennyruth
    I’m a couple inches and about 20 pounds heavier, and I’ve had quite a difficult time finding small parts of anything to fit me. I’m still working on my costume because of that reason. But, I decided that since I’d have to do a whole lot of modifications anyway, I’d just make my own. If you can sew well, you may give it a shot. I did mine in two pieces, pants and a jacket. The frustrations are real, but be patient and you can do this!
  25. jennyruth
    Before I make another one of these pouches and post for sizing, I have a couple of questions that I haven’t seen the answer to, but possibly I wasn’t looking in the right places. Does it matter how large the Velcro piece on the front closure is? Is there an exact way to sew it on, with the diagonal stitching, etc? I saw this way on Strider’s lancer post but didn’t see anything definitive. Is it OK to make the pouches kind of sturdy like this? I’ve seen pictures of squishy/floppy pouches, but I know people also use boxes/inserts to fill them out and make them nice and crisp.
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