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jennyruth

501st Pathfinder
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Everything posted by jennyruth

  1. jennyruth
    Thank you so much! Most of us with smaller frames find kid sizing too small and the “regular” sizes too big. So, while it’s a lot of work, this way has been a good option for me, and if I can help anyone else, I’m all for it. I would have loved to go for lancer, and that was my original goal. However, the downside to reducing the size of armor is that almost all of my strapping is now 1/4” more narrow than lancer requirements. I’m at peace with it. I got close for my own preference, and I can live with that
  2. jennyruth
    Update: got my numbers an hour later. TB 24368 at your service! I am approved! I just have to wait for my numbers to come through from the 501st. I’m excited to be a Pathfinder soon! I'm a little bit of a patchwork Scout, so I thought I might list where all of my parts came from. Soft parts made by me: Flight suit trousers and jacket Flak vest Cod and cummerbund Pouches Boots (Base is Women's Original Timberland Boots) Gloves: Wampa Wear Armor parts from RS Propmasters: Helmet Thermal Detonator Holster and blaster Armor parts from Studio Creations: Belt (their smaller pull) painted by me Tank topper (painted by me) Tank decals Rest of Armor: 3D printed from @MrPoopie’s files at 85%. Except the chest, back, and tank. Tank is normal size, and he graciously customized the chest and back to make it more narrow, as it didn’t need to be shrunk overall. Sanded and prepared by me. Bicep greeblies were resin printed at 85%. Painted by me. And now I’ll be able to chase myself around some trees.
  3. jennyruth
    Thank you so much for all of your help!
  4. jennyruth
    Sure, here ya go! Let me know if you need more. Full disclosure, this is one-off the RS pieces that I kept, and it came to me already built. They are also doing a build series for the Scout on the RS YouTube channel. Pretty helpful!
  5. jennyruth
    Thanks for all of your invaluable and timely help and encouragement! It was priceless.
  6. jennyruth
    Thank you so much! This has to be the best detachment. I’m incredibly grateful for all of the help, direction, and for others leading the way.
  7. jennyruth
    A few more finishing touches to add, but otherwise, I think I’m mostly done.
  8. jennyruth
    So, the shoulder situation—looping the zip tie made the shoulder bells look like they were levitating. Plus, all that bulk under the bridge made them stick up a bit too. Nothing I tried helped that. So, then I tried just putting Velcro on one end and sticking it under the bridge. I’ll spare you those pictures because it was not working well, and they wanted to fall off. So, trouble-shooter some more and went back to my tiny loop idea. This time I sewed it into a loop seam—just enough to stop the bit end of the zip tie from coming through. Then, I cut off the big end of another zip tie and used that to anchor it through the mount in the shoulder bell. It’s working great.
  9. jennyruth
    I still have to add the holster, and I ran out of elastic for the top of one knee. Also definitely need to make some adjustments and trouble shoot some issues. But, wanted to check on the progress so far. I think the flap may be a little long.
  10. jennyruth
    Thanks, it seems ok so far, but we’ll see how it actually plays out in real life trooping
  11. jennyruth
    Is it ok if the zip ties are connected to the shoulder bridges by something other than one of the traditional mounting bases? I saw this idea of extending the Velcro on the bridge elastic to kind of keep the sides together. (I will look up that WIP to give credit.) And then it wraps around and velcros to itself. With this being 3D printed, the pieces are not as flexible, and therefore need as much stability and security as I can offer. That’s why I appreciated the extra length of velcro. I may play with the exact setup, but so far it seems ok. The problem I had, then, was how and where to attach the zip tie mounting base. Then, I thought that maybe I could use something else and make a little loop—like this white cording I had on hand. It seemed like it might eliminate problems and still be very functional.
  12. jennyruth
    Figured out how to use the rivet gun and got the first two set. Not gonna lie—there was much trepidation, and it feels like they will all be that way 😂
  13. jennyruth
    Instead of trying to tape off the black and paint the circle, I decided to try something different. I cut a circle the size of the opening out of adhesive white vinyl (actually, multiples in case of mess—ups) and then painted them with my armor paint. When dry, I put it it in the hole. I feel like that made life a lot easier.
  14. jennyruth
    Checking on the placement and look of these pin stripes and bars.
  15. jennyruth
    I’ve tried to look at pictures, but I want to make sure what I think is right is actually right. Does the red stripe on the tank topper go (1) up the front and along the top long side like this? Or (2) does it go up the front, along the top, and down the back like this?
  16. jennyruth
    When I was comparing parts, the button part on my printed tank topper was much larger than the button that’s on the thermal detonator. It just seemed really large overall, although otherwise a pretty good print. I decided to get a different tank topper from Studio Creations. It seems to be more in line with the correct sizing. I’ve been wondering is the pre printed hole in the tank was off-centered on purpose. I tried to look at pictures but had trouble seeing them straight down on the tank. So, is the topper supposed to be a little off set like this one? Or more centered like this one? Also, are there any specific kinds of tips or measurements for placing the pin stripes? It seems most are near 1/3 to 1/2 on the little side bumps, and the top one is maybe around halfway?
  17. jennyruth
    I hope it works out!
  18. jennyruth
    I got my semi gloss clear coat from Crosslink on yesterday and today, and I’m pretty pleased with it. My bucket and thermal detonator aren’t too glossy, so I went with the semi to match better. Not sure if this is helpful, but here ya go if it is.
  19. jennyruth
    Semi-gloss clear coat from the same company seems to have gone on pretty well this afternoon. So, another week of curing and assembly can begin. Am I correct in thinking that the tank topper is the only rivet that has a visible washer? There can be washers in the back in other places, but they aren’t seen like the tank topper? Also, is it better to paint the little gray rectangle in front or use a sticker?
  20. jennyruth
    There are so many good tutorials for how to make and sew up soft parts that I didn’t need to repeat most of it. But if there are some tips that may be helpful, I’ll add those. These two products have been valuable to me as I try to sew on all the copious amounts of Velcro or place suede, etc. Sometimes pins (or the little clips) aren’t the right tool, and sometimes they are just difficult to use on certain materials. So, I offer these sewing hacks in those situations. For the spray, just be careful how you spray because…overspray. I used this a lot when making my friend’s JFO harness padding things and the battery holder with vinyl. The basting tape on the right is what I use most often, though. Great for zippers, Velcro, and all kinds of similar items. It’s basically double-sided tape. This one is water soluble, so it will disappear after washing, but there are permanent ones too.
  21. jennyruth
    I got their semi gloss clear coat too, but I have a few more days of this to cure (a series of unfortunate events led to some repainting) before I can get it on. But it looks good on the test piece.
  22. jennyruth
    Thanks! Is that the same thing used on the thermal detonator "button"?
  23. jennyruth
    Gotcha! OK, I can paint that! The button should make contact, but it seems like it's too short. I thought it looked like it was a decent bit taller than the rest of the topper, but this one is barely not flush with the top. Am I seeing the pictures incorrectly? Is it OK to just glue it as is?
  24. jennyruth
    With all of this white, I almost forgot I had greeblies to paint black. A friend printed these in resin for me, so a lot less sanding. The bicep pieces look pretty good, but I have a couple of questions about the tank topper. 1) I have seen in some pictures where this smaller circle (arrow pointing to) is either a cut out or is white. Others are black like this one. Does it matter? 2) It seems that the black dot that sits in the open oval space may be too short. I have seen on others that it kind of sits flush with the top and has a white piece underneath it. Is there a best practice?
  25. jennyruth
    Thank you so much! It’s been a long journey (and a lifetime of sanding). And now I impatiently wait for paint to cure before I can do anything else 😵‍💫 What part of Alabama are you in?
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