Aradun

Chris, looks like your pouches still need to be switched. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your corners are most likely square. They just needed to be “pushed through” when you fold the pouch from inside out after sowing the pouch and especially the flap before sowing it closed. I used a screwdriver to gently push the corners out. If that makes sense. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Same case with me. Perfect fit.

Wampawear has great gloves. Solid quality. Their sizing chart is helpful too when ordering. I found it spot on in my case. Gloves are snug (which I prefer) but not tight or restricting. Some elect to remove the lining to keep their hands cooler while trooping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Stroker! I was thinking the same about the butt patch. Just ordered RS armor and their red label bucket today! Can’t wait for it to come in (about 8 weeks)! Once in hand I’ll be able to fine tune the soft parts and tighten up the build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here is the finished undersuit. Legs tapered, suede riding patches applied, suede butt flap with no visible seams attached, and 2” wide elastic band around thighs. Hopefully you’ll be able to see the patches and thigh straps. If not, I’ll repost pics on a sunnier day. I received my material for the CB and cod piece in the mail yesterday from Joann. It’s heavy enough and the 100% cotton sateen has a light sheen to it. Not an exact match to polished cotton, but I think I’ll work nicely. I hope to get the cod piece and CB done in the next two weeks (busy schedule) so that I can check the front patches and adjust as needed per Chopper’s suggestion. I’m also toying with the idea of taking in the sleeves (maybe an 1” or so) but will wait until I receive my armor so I can see how it looks. That’s an easy adjustment if needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Added that to my Amazon Biker Scout wish list! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Glad it helped, but to be honest I didn’t catch that in your photo until you said something LOL. Glad you caught it now before putting the other pouches together. And technically you just need to take off the flap, turn the box around, and reattach the flap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Scouts, I am taking the plunge and will be placing an order for a set of RS armor and an RS red label bucket by the end of this week. I’m stoked because I didn’t think I’d be able to make this purchase until the end of the summer. I’m making the soft parts myself and having the armor on hand nearly six months ahead of schedule will make my build way easier when assembling my soft parts. I’m going to order it “dirty” as their weathering looks absolutely fantastic in every instance I’ve seen. So, as this is a huge investment, I’m wondering if those of you who own a set of RS armor and/or bucket can chime in on the following: 1) Is there anything I should be aware of or request when placing my order? 2) I’ve read some threads where scouts have painted their RS buckets to better match the color of the RS armor because of a coloration variation between the two. So is there really that big of a difference in coloration between the bucket and armor? No sense in ordering a weathered bucket if I have to repaint it. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct. You can see how and where to attach it in the best practice guide below. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19259-undersuit-mods/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can always go simple with a light weight cardboard too. Check crafts stores and mailing supply places for 6x5x2 mailing/jewelry boxes. You’d need to modify how the box opens (i.e., from the side as opposed to the top) but it would be a simple solution. Amazon has the boxes but only sells them in quantities of 50.

I’ve thought about using plastruct .060 abs plastic sheeting. This is the same stuff modelers use for constructing the houses on train sets. You can cut the plastic sheet to size and use plastic weld to “glue” it together. The plastic weld actually melts the plastic so that when it dries it is “welded” not actually glued. More durable. If I do it I’m thinking about only doing an insert for the very bottom of the pouch coming up no higher than 2”. I think it’ll be just enough to keep the pouch from sagging and still allow my hand to get into the pouch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Peter, Way to persevere brother. The pouch looks good. I too broke several needles trying to attach the flap to the pouch and realized the key was not to stitch to the end where it became very thick with folded and seamed fabric. While you could just make the back and front one continuous piece and only have one seam to stitch, I think the reason it is pieced together currently as two separate pieces is because the seams on either side of the pouch’s front are clearly visible in photos of scouts on set and so the goal is to be as screen accurate as possible. I don’t see anything in the CRL that stipulates that both seams have to be visible but I’m not sure how that would effect a Lancer app. Maybe someone more well versed in these matters can chime in as to whether or not it would make a difference. Also, I steam pressed my seams with an iron once completed to give the pouch nice crisp edges all around and it does help the pouch hold its form. Looking at your flap, consider running an iron over it. The one edge where it is angled looks very rounded in the photo. Ironing it would help it lay flat better and remove some of the wrinkles. Nice job!

Thanks Björn! And thanks for posting photos. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, below are photos of my pencil drawings to carve the soles of my my Kingshow 1366 Boots. I tried to match the pattern of the originals, by measuring things out as best I could from photos of the original boots, but doing so results in the cutouts not exactly lining up with the tread groves (which is to be expected). I also included the line that breaks the cutouts into a top and bottom portion like the originals. I’ve seen some Lancers do a rather simple pattern that ties in with the tread spacing, and that looks clean. So, I’d like to get feedback from Lancers on whether this looks okay before taking a knife to it. Am I overthinking my attempt to match the originals? Should I go for a more simple pattern that better matches the tread of the Kingshow? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Anytime!

Correct. However you finished off the top front and two sides is how you’ll finish off the back. Make sure you stitch the excess and don’t just fold the excess inside. Then the top flap is attached as shown above. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Zugar, In your second photo, the part that extends up in the back should be folded flush with the remaining three sides of the pouch so that the rim of the pouches top top is flush all around. To attach the flap you should fold the piece like in the photos below. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Corey. I hoping my estimation will allow the cod to cover the top of the front patches completely so that it doesn’t show. I’m waiting on material I ordered for the CB and cod piece to arrive. Once I get the CB and cod finished, I’ll be able to make any adjustments to the suede if needed. Rounding the corners will be an easy fix if needed. One thing I want to point out is that I’m not working off of the CRL photo, but the photo below. I noticed that the suede on the original comes up much higher than the suede in the CRL photo. The lines for the top of the suede in the CRL photo almost blend in with the arched stitching of the cod piece. Whereas in the photo below you can see that the left side riding patch goes up to the band on the drop boxes before disappearing behind the cod piece. The right side looks lower but I think that’s just due to the way it is sitting on the mannequin. You can see in this Magic of Myth photo that the suede also appears to comes up higher than the CRL photo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Undersuit Mods Seam ripped the legs of the undersuit so that I could attach the suede riding patches. I tapered the fit from about a 1/2” at the waste up to 4” at the ankle and marked the stitch line with chalk. Front Riding Patch Then worked at creating a front and rear template for the patches. I sketched out the patches using chalk. Following some feedback I added about an 1” to the length of the patches and then worked on creating a template for the front using a brown paper bag. Here’s the final measurements for the front patches template. This template will vary from one scout to another based on height and build so you can use it as a guide, but you should adjust measurements for your own fit. I added 3/8” of material for a seam as indicated on the template in two spots where the patches would be sown together along the inner thigh (front patch to rear patch) and then in the crotch where all four patches would converge. Rear Riding Patch With the template for the front done, the undersuit was flipped over the the design for the rear patch was sketched out in chalk. I went through a couple of iterations to get the right curve at the top of the buttocks and settled on the template below. I’ll get the Mud Flap and final photos posted soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mandarin Collar Velcro attached to the undersuit. I removed the back pockets from the undersuit, and rather than cutting the back pocket to the exact size needed, I opted to use the folder over method to create a cleaner look, stiffer collar, and to hide the stitching for the Velcro that would attach to the collar itself. You can see from the photo above that the pocket has plenty of material for the fold over method. I attached the Velcro to the pocket, then folded the material over and seamed the ends together. You can see from the photos below that there is no visible seam for the Velcro showing on the face of the collar. Here’s the finished collar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent. Thanks for the clarification! And great pic by the way!

Mickey, Your riding patches in the photo above form roughly 90 degree angles at the top. However, while looking at some Lancer applications for reference photos of where they attached the butt flap I came across an app where the review team requested that the top be more rounded (similar to the backside). I was under the impression that the top front of the riding patches would/should be covered by the cod piece. Will going straight across like the photo above be an issue for a Lancer app? I only ask because I just finished my patches using this guide and want to make any adjustments now rather than later on when I’m ready to submit my Lancer app.

Went out on a limb and ordered a white Cotton Sateen material from Joann Fabric for my CB and cod piece. I’m hoping it will give it the sheen needed to emulate the polished cotton look of the originals without being too thin. I’ve also finished my Mandarin collar, riding patches, and butt flap for the undersuit. Hoping to get build pics posted sometime this week.

Awesome! Thanks.