Harbinger

Where are you located? Your absolute best bet is to find somebody in your area that has built a ROTJ TB - preferably to Lancer - to help walk you through your build. Beyond that, you have already taken your first step into a larger world. Welcome to Pathfinders, there are lots of great resources and helpful people here that can help you get the most out of your build. What make are your soft goods and blasters? Are you aiming for L2 or just basic approval?

Lancer app submitted, finally! (Wow, that took way longer than I expected, what with all the photos and formatting and such!).

Greetings Command and L2 Review Teams! I am happy to submit my costume for Lancer review. Name: Brien Edick ID: TB-92802 Unit: Central California Garrison Costume: Scout Trooper (ROTJ) Build Thread: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21344-harbinger’s-tb-wip/ Armor Armor: RS Propmasters Helmet: RS Propmasters Blaster: DVH (with accuracy mods) Soft Goods (any alterations made by myself) Flight Suit: Kriptontop Flak Vest: Kriptontop Cummerbund: Cheesewhoopy Cod: Cheesewhoopy Gloves: Wampa Wear Boots: Modified Cheesewhoopy (Sierra Woodland Sneaker IV base) Photos: Front Back Left Side (Arms Up and Down) Right Side (Arms Up and Down) Bucket Off Action Poses Helmet: * Lens is black in color and obscures wearer's eyes * Decals are screen accurate * Earholes are cut out * Optional: A white chin cup is present in the helmet * Snout greeblie is screen-accurate *Helmet bolts are Gray 3M bolts or other replicas with concave centers. (Visible bolt head diameter of 22mm) Balaclava Flight Suit Front Back * A Mandarin-style collar closure flap covers the neck area Suede thigh patches front/back: * Thigh straps measure 2 inches wide (50mm) Shoulder Armor * Armor is secured around bicep with a 1/2 inch (12mm) black elastic strap. * Bottom corners are rounded. * Shoulder bells have appearance of being affixed to shoulder joins using black zip ties. Upper Arm (Bicep) Armor * Film-accurate "T-bit" detail is mounted to armor * Armor is secured around the arm with a 50mm ( 2") black elastic strap. Forearm Armor * Armor is secured around the arm with a 25mm ( 1") black elastic strap. Gloves Vest * Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener. * Vest sleeves extend no further than 1.5 inches past the bottom edge of the shoulder bell Chest Armor * There is a recessed rectangular area present over the right breast that is painted a medium to dark gray. * Covers are between .5 inch and 1 inch wide * Side under arm chest/back straps are made from 38mm (1.5") white cotton webbing Back Armor * The top of the tank is flat with a black tank topper detail attached * Tank topper detail is secured to the top of the tank with a single silver colored 1/8th (3mm) rivet and visible washer. * Tank has a single silver colored 1/8th (3mm) rivet placed in the bottom center of the tank. * Optional: .5 inch elastic strap anchored to the tank rivets on top and bottom and loops around the inside of the back armor. (Elastic measurement also in first photo.) Cummerbund * Closure is right-over-left. * Closes in back with 50mm (2") hook and loop fastener * Cummerbund ribs are 1 inch wide. Cod * Elastic strap is 50mm (2 inches) Pouches * Pouch size is ideally 6 inches high, 5 inches wide and 2 inches deep. * Bottom edge of the pouch flap is between 2 and 2.5 inches in width. * Pouches have an attachment tab of at least 2 inches high to attach to the cummerbund. * Pouch attachment tab is same width as the pouch (5 inches). * Pouches sit approximately 1 inch from the outermost cummerbund rib on each side. Belt *2 inch (50mm) nylon or polypropylene webbing is attached to the belt in the back with one (1) 1/8th (3mm)silver rivet on each side. * Belt has the appearance of being a one-piece construction. Any joins or seams are filled. * Parachute buckles are not functional. In the film, the straps looped behind them. * Drop boxes hang approximately 1 inch from the belt. * Dropbox straps are 1.5 inches (38mm) wide and made of white cotton webbing. Thermal Detonator * Thermal Detonator end caps are concave and not flat. (You can see this better in my build thread) Knee Armor * The upper strap is 12mm (1/2 inch) wide and is riveted to the top sides of the knee armor with two (2) 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. * The lower strap may be 12mm (1/2 inch) or 20mm (3/4 inch) wide and passes through the lower sides of the knee armor. Boots * The toe strip is approximately 1/2 inch in height. Holster * The blaster pistol fits into the holster. * Attached to the outside of the right boot with 1/8th (3mm) silver-colored rivets. * Front of holster has five (5) cut out vents. EC-17 Blaster * Scope eyepiece has stepped circular grooves like the original. * Scope has no actual lens. * No decals representing cross hairs or similar. Thank you for your time and feedback in advance!

Re: #3 - good to know!

Hilary, saw your PM and replied. I had to buy a 100-pack, but I'd like to see if these'll work before I sell any. Somewhat tangential to my build thread, but as I sit here fussing over my Lancer submission a couple feedback items for @BikerScout007 and @Chopper and the rest of the review team: - Why isn't the 'Pouches' section directly after the bund in the CRL? Seems weird for it go to bund > cod > pouches as it currently does. - Why isn't the 'upside down' rivet a requirement for L2? I see a lot of apps where the rivet is down from the top vs. inside the tank and we have enough photographic evidence to know that this just isn't accurate (and looks off IMO) - Why no 'hero blaster' EC-17 option?

Looking great! Wish I had a backyard that went with my TB, easy action shots!

Almost there! Had to glue one of my tank topper fins back on (my kingdom for an accurate rubber topper!): Hit it with some sandpaper and flat black and now the photo shoot begins: PS: If anyone wants the checklist for themselves, it’s available here.

Butt flap and matching velcro trimmed down ~1" on each side. Just awaiting the new blaster screws from McMaster-Carr now!

I've heard of people having the high-temp stuff warp ABS pulls before though. I'd be cautious if you went that route.

I would pay for a set of accurate rubber ones. Resin is not built for long-term durability! (Ditto for my tank topper!)

Excellent news. Makes sense to me as well. I always assumed the prop makers wouldn't have spent time sourcing found parts just to make mirrored molds. Going to need to ask RS for another left T-bit (or print news ones!).

That method is nice as it leaves (usually!) a gap between the lens and the helmet, which cuts down on any fogging or condensation.

Yep! The Sierras are canvas, way flimsier than Kingshow etcetera boots. They sewed the leather over the toes and the strips were glued on to cover the stitching, so some flex/wrinkle would be expected if made ‘correctly’, as Mickey touched on.

Yeah, I agree, you can push it further and sharpen those corners a tad. Plenty of build threads on here of people doing the same.

Congrats Dennis!

Yeah, I originally decided to put screws on there because it came to me already separating from the scope – figured I might as well replace it with more accurate ones!

Hi Juan, You should consider a build thread seperate from this one and also post (more) photos, so me and all the other helpful members on here can help out (if that's what you are looking for). I'm looking forward to your build, can't have too many TB's!

Thanks Corey! Coming from you that means a lot. I figure, I already spent all of this time and money on an RS kit, Sierra sneakers, etcetera, if I’m going for accuracy I might as well go all the way. I had to buy a 50-pack of 1” screws for the handle, so if anyone else is looking for an accuracy upgrade for their DVH blaster, you know where to reach me!

Blaster/holster updates, part II... While Lou includes a rectangular magnet for the blaster to attach near the nozzle on the bottom of the holster, my RS holster doesn't really facilitate this particular mounting as the blaster fits too snug and making it work would take away from accuracy. Instead, I'll use a magnet to keep it secure via the Motorola transistor grip area (seems there is either another magnet or some metal in the handle of the blaster here). I modeled and printed out a cap/holder for the medium sized neodymium magnets Home Depot sells: I then used some RTV silicone to fill in some air bubbles in my DVH blaster in the rear. Here it is before: Here is the magnet installed along with the bubble-free blaster: The last update I'd like to do - and I'm not sure the screws will be here before I take all my Lancer photos - is replacing the trigger guard screws with more accurate oval-head slotted screws (at least, according to the auction blaster, but it's safe to assume they all use the same screws?): PS: A silver sharpie does wonders for any sort of metallic/aging effects on these rubber blasters.

Congratulations!

Good luck man!

Final home stretch before I submit for Lancer. Needed a blaster and was planning on printing one with Justin’s model, until I saw Lou himself selling a DVH here - and scooped it up immediately. Resin just can’t hold a candle to rubber and metal for long-term durability. It arrived last week and I did additional mods. I cleaned up the flashing and am filling in a few of the bubbles with black silicone. I also removed the cast screws on the scope to replace with real metal screws in the more accurate flat-head profile. I used brass screws so as to not interfere with the magnet system to keep it secure. First up was cutting off the cast-in screws: Then I used a hot nail and some drill bits to make holes for the screws: Lastly I hit the screws with some 400 grit and two coats of flat black, then installed them into the blaster: Next post, I will go over my modified magnet for the RS holster…

Congrats!

Excellent. Looking forward to your build.

Just make sure they still fit well over the undersuit! I have made that mistake before…