Tarok

Thanks @Chopper . I’d had a look at the SDCC photos as well as the CRL, which I guess is what threw me. I wasn’t sure if I should be cutting the slot at the top or bottom of the rectangle. Easier to ask than to wreck the kit [emoji4]

Thanks @Aradun . Much appreciated [emoji4]

@Aradun @Chopper I noticed that the WTF (I think that’s what the CRL model’s are) and SC hip boxes are a bit different. I’m specifically referring to the side, where the SC box features a rectangular indent whereas WTFs indent runs from the top (see image). I have the SC kit. My question is 2-fold: 1) where should I be making my webbing slot cut? At the top or the bottom of the rectangular indent? 2) does this difference in the boxes prevent the SC kit from being approved for L2? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks @Aradun . In retrospect I should have stuck to my tried and tested approach of e6000, but I wanted to give this a go. Lesson learned though about the hot glue: a webbing snap plate pulled out when I was testing something else this afternoon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Upper Arm Armour: (aka bicep armour ) The SC biceps don't have pre-marked slots, so after having a look at various references (other builds on this fine forum, screen grabs and the SDCC mannequin), I finally guestimated a point, closed my eyes and cut (not literally, but you get the idea ). Being somewhat chuffed with my jury rig jig, I used it for the biceps too, curling them in a couple of centimeters (that's about an inch, or about 1/8 of a standard banana if you prefer that unit of measure). The greebles were once again super glued into place and given a light spray of Zip Kicker to accelerate the curing process. The method for painting these 2 parts was pretty much the same as the forearms, although I appear not to have removed as much paint.

Forearm Armour The SC forearms seem to be styled for Popeye, or at least someone who's seem the inside of a gym more than me After cutting the elastic slots and giving the edges a quick sand, I put both forearms into a jig and gave them a quick heat with a heatgun (one definitely wants to be careful one doesn't overheat parts). Once warm enough I gently closed the jig until I got to my desired width. Once they'd cooled, the 25mm ribbed elastic was once again fixed using hotglue. Fast forward to today: painting day! The same "wax on, wax off" technique was used applying the Raw Umber oil paint. However this time I used a sea sponge to stipple the paint in the gathered areas. I am however concerned that I may have removed a bit much this time.

Knee Armour The knee armour is definitely one of the easier parts of this build. The SC parts didn't need much more than a cursory sand along the edges and the elastic slots cut, which were done quickly with a Dremel cutting disc. Thereafter, I glued the black 25mm ribbed elastic into place. I decided to hot glue the elastic as I wasn't in the mood to wait for e-6000 to dry before gluing an opposite end Fast forward a week, and time to paint. Once again, the part was lathered in Raw Umber before being wiped down and dabbed. However this time I added a bit of Burnt Sienna in key spots first. By doing it this way, the wipe down served to blend to a certain degree - or at least that's what I told myself lol... sigh....

My posts from here forth aren't necessarily in chronological order, as I'm trying to keep them per costume part. Thermal Detonator I decided to start my favourite part of the build, namely weathering, with the thermal detonator. But first, the build. I started by gluing the end caps to the ribbed tube using e-6000. I wanted a bit of working time to position the caps if they shifted. I found the easiest way was to position the tube upright in my bench vice, apply the glue, and tape the caps in place while the glue set. The TD greeblies were CA'ed into place, and given a quick spritz of Zip Kicker. Those were left overnight before the tube was fixed to the box via the cable tie. While I was at it, I decided to fit a pair of clips. They were pretty tight, and needed some stretching out. These were screwed into place using a couple of wood screws (thanks for the tip [mention=78054]BikerScout007[/mention] ). Onto the painting. My preferred medium is artist oils. I'd previously used these on a B1 droid prop, but seeing [mention=82250]TKZombie[/mention] 's build made up my mind. The entire part, including the tube, was given a good coat of Raw Umber. To be honest I wasn't sure if the tube should be weathered, but it made sense that it should. Once the part was coated, the paint was then wiped off using paper towel. I went softer in places I though dirt might gather. Once I was happy with the amount of paint remaining, I proceeded to dab, or stipple, the paint with the paper towel, removing any obvious wipe marks or streaks. I thought I'd give adding some Burnt Sienna a go. I added it in select spots and blended it in. To be honest I'm not a fan. It looks too red. I'll see how it dries through the week and make a call. I think the paint surrounding the greeblies can do with a bit more stippling (with a clean brush).

[mention=78054]BikerScout007[/mention] ‘s video is great! It’s been my go-to, along with a few favourite build threads. Whilst I have a trimmed SC kit, I’ve still had to make some adjustments. This is far easier to put together than my TK, although I totally get the nervousness of making that cut [emoji4]

Congrats @Hask And happy birthday again, mate [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very much a garrison thing. Our Disney events are always canon. Helmeted is helmeted, no exceptions. Costumes are to appear as the day they were approved. Generally we request troopers to stay in character at events, and if one’s pulling a helmet off it’s done out of view of the public. Cons are the exception, more chilled. That said, if someone pulls their helmet off in the photo booth we move them out pretty snappy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lovely work on those boots @Glory530 Do you mind if I ask whether you needed a “walking foot” on your sewing machine to fix the velcro to the vinyl? Or was it just the leather needles? (Apologies, sewing noob here, and the first thing my local place told me was walking foot else the vinyl will slide)

Thanks @Chopper . That’s what I suspected, but then the self-doubt crept in. I figured easier to ask now before laying down the oils [emoji4]

Looking for some feedback from the brains trust [emoji4] I’ve done a first pass of an Earl Grey tea dye. Do you reckon it needs another dip? The colouring is very subtle.

Thanks @Chopper [emoji4]

@BikerScout007 @Chopper Another one I wouldn't mind getting a L2 opinion on: 1.5" Poly Pro webbing and 1" ribbed elastic. The box says it's the right stuff, but will it pass the CRL?

@BikerScout007 @Chopper Could I get please an opinion from a staff member or armourer: The L2 requirements for the helmet reads: Is that to say for "back and cap" style helmets filling the seam is optional? Or am I required to make it appear seamless? I'm a bit loath the have to paint unnecessarily but I reckon, given that area will be covered by weathering, I could potentially get away filling it with a paintable, flexible caulk.

Been a while since I updated this thread - apologies for the above spam 🙂 Armour has been received too, however no point in photo'ing a BBB, is just a brown box LOL As the strapping on the Remnant Scout is different to that of ROTJ, I've ordered new webbing and elastics from a couple of local places.

Tote Bag: Manufacturer: 1138 Replicas Received: January 2023 Bag still needs weathering (i.e. a tea bath... Earl Grey... Hot.... )

Cummerbund, Codpiece and Pouches: Manufacturer: Kriptontop (also know as CB Props - I think) Received: June/July 2023 Amazing work by CB. Quality is fantastic, and the turnabout is really quick. As before, weathering will follow later.

Gloves: Manufacturer: Wampa Wear Received: March/April 2023

Congrats mate!

Imperial surplus has a series of videos on their YouTube for the Mudtrooper. happy to be corrected, but I believe the Shoretrooper straps the same way. HTH Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol thanks for pointing that out @TreeHuggerMatt and @BikerScout007 [emoji23] always helps if I read all the words in the CRLs. Doh! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you sure? That dickie doesn’t seem to have the ribbing the CRL mentions… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk