KOtrooper

You're going to have to ask your local GML. The fabric should have a ribbed look to it. The ribs are about 4mm apart. I sewed mine. Was boring but I got good at sewing a straight line. In short, if you're going for basic - this is a maybe. If going for L2 - this fabric is a no-go. Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Here's a guide from Mr. Paul... Not sure if the link will be correct so I'm including a photo too. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1742353536003671/permalink/2205414926364194/?app=fbl Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

You're making great progress! Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

It's fine. I used Velcro for a flatter pack down. Basically, unless it's called out in the CRL - use whatever strapping method you need to use. Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Rotary tools are great and very useful for kit buildings (cutting/sanding/drilling). You can often get a decent one for cheap. Powered sanders will take the edge off quick. You can also tape some sandpaper to the table and rub the armor on it until the excess edge goes away. I'd really recommend you sand/file it down. For your comfort and overall kit accuracy. I think you'll be much happier with it.

Approval really depends on your local GML. I will say that obvious air brushing will prevent L2 approval. If you have any concerns, I'd send a few photos to your local GML and ask for input on your progress. Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Nice!

I'd tone down the airbrushing (while still trying to be consistent with your entire kit). It comes across too soft and even while the Shore is more randomly weathered and scratched. The washes will do most of the heavy lifting along side some chipping/scuffs.

Congrats Trooper! Great build thread and I love the work you did on your blaster. Have fun trooping.

Nice progress! Mike's steering you in the right direction for the male snaps. Make sure the bottom male snap on the shoulder bell is high enough to help hold up the bicep armor. Took me a few tries with the elastic and female snaps to get it just right (was doing all of this solo) so make sure you have extras.

Sounds about normal. Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Nice work!! Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Looks like you're on the right track and know what to fix. How does the armor feel while it's on? Comfortable? Any pinch points? Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Great work on the weathering. I'd add in a layer of grime in the edges of the square recessed boxes before you do the clear coat. Air brushing isn't an ideal method for weathering the shore. It's too soft and uniform.

I found the Montana Gold paints to spray like a dream. Maybe you got a bad can or spray tip is clogged? Either way - don't sweat it because what you described basically adds to the weathering look. Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Looking good. Nice, consistent weathering! Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

Apply!! Sent from my Pixel 8a using Tapatalk

I use a TK talkie for my setup on the Shore and Bikerscout. You can have different costume profiles with it. I used helmet pads i got off amazon. Two of them are placed under the eyes so the bucket rests on my cheekbones and my nose doesn't get squished.

Yes, that's the area. It is wise to hold off and finish the weathering all of the armor at once for consistently. Nice work! Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

I'd hit the boots with some baby powder to easily get more weathering detail in the creases and elastic. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

Great progress! It could be the lighting but the top groove of the tusks could use a little bit more grime in order to be more defined. Glad the sun came out so you spray paint more. I've had so many frustrating chemical reactions spraying this kit. Even after weeks of cure time. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

I make my slurry pretty thick and do multiple light passes. Remember, the armor doesn't need to be rock hard - just has to look like it. I'd fill in the back of the sniper knee with the foam and paintable caulk - it's more forgiving than bondo. Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

What do you think you'll need Bondo for? It has a tendency to crack. For filling cracks/gaps - think about doing ABS slurry or even paintable caulk.

Your build is looking great! Undershirt looks fantastic! Did you have to sew the ribs or was that all just in the fabric? Sent from my Pixel 7a using Tapatalk

Nice progress!