MrPoopie

There's a velcro strip on the top and bottom edges of the bund and the TPU has corresponding velcro on the backside top and bottom, which then stick t together. There's a gap at the back where the TPU pieces don't meet but this is covered by the stiff back plate, which also uses velcro to hold itself in place. You'll notice a cutout on the bottom of the TPU sides as well. This has more velcro (too much velcro used on this armor). The belt has corresponding velcro on the backside to attach here. This way everything seams up nicely and is held up buy the suspenders on the bund. I need to add padding to the shoulder straps of the bund because my shoulders get tired after about an hour of holding everything up without some way to disperse the weight more. The belt is a simple canvas belt that I made with velcro on one side and is sewn to the rubber outer belt on the other. The boxes and such are all attached to the rubber belt with Chicago screws. You could probably use rivets but I prefer Chicago screws because they are removable.

If you look at the rest of the album there's more pictures of the mid section and the rest of my build.

If it makes you feel better mine doesn’t actually touch on the back either. It’s left separated to give some movement. I attached my TPU pieces to a cloth “cummerbund” vest that zips in front behind the front a section. It has straps like suspenders to help keep it up. The belt also attaches to this so everything is held by my shoulders so that it doesn’t slip. Let me see if I can dig up a picture.

No worries, we can move the post. We're currently working on an update to the JFO Scout CRL to make Lvl. 1 easier but a new Lvl. 2 would retain the more accurate details. Not sure when that will drop but soonish.

Sounds like a fun build. Be careful which photos you use for reference. The in-game character model is not the same as the promo and info model. The image you have above is from the menu system in the game ( I forget exactly where but it's something like a wiki page). Those menu systems models were not used for the in-game characters and differ with many of the details. It's totally your preference as this build seems like it's just for your own enjoyment as some of the details will not met the CRL requirements.

If you have my files there should be a TPU collar, if there isn't a file for it, just PM me and I'll send it to you.

Then baton is a substantial print but not any more than an blaster. I used nylon webbing and vinyl with some padding to make the harness.ots mostly nylon webbing.

Looks pretty good especially for a first go at it TPU can be a little finicky because of the elasticity of the filament. I think you did a great job.

I think you'll still pass Lvl1. It actually looks like they just did flat stitching and didn't put any pipping under the fabric to create ridges. The pipping is the real reason why there haven't been any vendors making this. It's not your run of the mill sewing job, it's pretty complicated and time consuming to create.

Good news all around (except for the shins, 3D printers can be fun like that). Yes, the forearms are each 2 large pieces. The left forearm also has 2 small oval parts that attach to the top detail section (see the CRL for positioning).

I'm just happy to be a member.

I can't see all the details but there are a lot of inaccuracies that I can see in wider images (forearms, chest, biceps, and to name a few). I haven't directly heard of anyone using their files.

Recording posted.

In Progress NOW

Looks warm. From the quick glance on my phone it looks good.

Saturday April 12th 9:00AM (PST) / 12:00PM (ET) / 4:00PM (UTC+1) Length: 2-3 hours (depending on interest and availability of staff) Google Meet: https://meet.google.com/iph-uxin-qag (No Download Required) Pathfinders Virtual Armor Party. Everyone is welcome to attend and bring any questions you have about any of the Pathfinders costumes. If you're new to the detachment and this is your first costume build or if you're deep in the weeds with a plethora of costumes but feel "just one more couldn't hurt," come join in. The time gives the best coverage for the US and Europe but everyone is invited to join. While the forum is a great source for just about anything you would like to know about Pathfinders costumes, it never hurts to have someone to talk to directly as well as being able to ask specific questions about your build while being able to see first hand the answers to those questions. Working on armor by yourself can be a daunting task, so let us help with some of that strain. Armorers and Command staff will be available to help you with your builds so come prepared with questions and be ready to work. Or if you just want to say hi to some of the folks you see posting on the forum all the time, now is your chance! If you are unable to attend due to timezone issues please let us know your interest. If there are enough people outside of the current timezone we can always schedule another Armor Party at a later date that will take this into account.

This looks about correct. I'm assuming since you're arm is probably a bit shorter than the screen-accurate jacket that would account for the wrist area that doesn't have ribs being show short. I can't actually count the ribs and stitches but it looks pretty close from what I can tell.

If you run into any other sizing issues with Imperial to metric let me know. I can probably easily adjust the models to accommodate the metric pieces.

The ribs should be just about 1/4" wide (just slightly less if possible).

The pattern that I used was the Simplicity 8705. It's basically a lightweight running jacket. I moved the zipper from the front to the back of the neck and shortened it a bit. It'll be hidden by the helmet and the neck area of the back armor anyway. I also removed the addition of the arm pocket. I suggest making part of the main body out of a lightweight fabric that breathes well. Anything in the main body that is hidden by the chest and back armor should be lightweight and breathable. This jacket gets very hot since it's made out of vinyl (or leather) and the only real place for heat to escape if from your head which is then inside a helmet. It's a bit warm even when it's cool out. If you want to go for accuracy on the sleeves try to stick with the pattern of ribs and stitching below. You don't need to have the wrist zippers but you can if you like as long as they are hidden.

I'm not sure I completely understand your question but I'll try to answer. The holster is indeed 2 pieces. The main body (the part next to the boot) and the section that wraps around the blaster itself to hold it in place (blaster cover). The blaster cover fits into a slot on the main body on one side and is usually riveted to the main body on the other side. I think the part that you're wondering is about the area where the blaster cover is riveted and meets the main body. This is probably the clearest shot of the inside of the holster without the blaster.

Mine is closer to the orange as well.

Good luck on your journey. You've made the right choice picking one of the Scout armors. We all take great pride in this detachment (and forum). If you need any help along the way just give us a shout.

I have a fabric pattern but it's fit for my size. I don't have the exact dimensions right now (on vacation) but I'm 5'10 and around 150lbs. Are you anywhere near that range? If not I can direct you to the base pattern that we used and how we modified it to work for this costume. The biggest issue that you're going to run into is finding a matching fabric. The ribbed vinyl fabric that I used is longer in production. It's possible to make ribbed fabric by hand but it does take a bit of skill and a lot of patience. The ribbing needs to be about 1/4" with minimal stitching lines between the ribs.

My baton is leather straps like this. It works great to hold the baton, but once I pull mine out I find it almost impossible to snap it back in place because of mobility issues and gloves. It's a good thing that it's mostly ornamental and I rarely use it.