NegativeEleven

My t-shirt vest has lasted almost 3 years now. I paid a friend to do my vest and she ended up using a t-shirt for the main vest and heavier black fabric with padding for the sleeves, which I had to move several times because my GML was a jerk about the length (so I pretty much rebuilt the vest myself a few times). I eventually sewed the velcro part closed (one less thing to worry about not lining up on the back) because as said above, the t-shirt stretches enough to put on without opening the velcro. It still has the 2 inch wide flap that looks like velcro to open for screen accuracy. As a bonus, the t-shirt material isn't as hot as some of the other options out there. Coveralls are hot enough. There's not reason to add layers on top if you don't have to.

Yeah it's been almost 3 years since I bought my KS helmet and I would recommend waiting till he posts that he has new molds. For bolt covers, just go to Lowe's and get 1" elevator bolts. They're easy to use instead of the bolts that come with your kit. You will have to paint them, but you're painting the snout anyway, so you can be sure they're the same. I like Rustoleum Winter Grey for the color. Stay away from Krylon classic grey because it is very different from can to can and even with the same can it can be a different shade of grey when you are running low than it was when you first spray.

Looks like you had a hard time getting in there to sand down bondo. I would try making all the parts separately and then bolt them together. It's a gun, so some visible seams between parts are acceptable. It will also make it easier to mod/upgrade later as your skills progress.

I think I had that same airsoft scope on mine for a while. I found one at a military surplus store that had been naturally weathered (black scratched off the surface) to replace it with. I like the look of the bigger one though. That's a great looking barrel. Is it much heavier than the wood body? I bought a real MG42 flash hider, but decided against replacing my handmade one because of the weight. My barrel is styrene shroud with pvc down the middle. A steel flash hider would add a lot of weight to that.

Yeah, the texture is very pronounced and it shows all the details of the boot underneath. It wouldn't stretch with the backing on it. The backing is mostly paper, unlike window tint, which has a similar clear material backing. It's basically a vinyl decal with a little texture on top. If the base boot was mostly smooth, it would work better. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

The visor is mounted too low. That's what is making it tight at the bottom. Look at the line from the back of the helmet across the top of the visor. I would get some styrene to place over the current hole so you can cut a new hole a little higher. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Hmmm... a German imposter? My name is Chris, and I have been TB11110 for the last 2 years! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Well, maybe I need more than this little sample piece. It stretches more than I thought it would. A few more scraps to practice with and I might get it right. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Was about to start a new boot build and stopped just as I was about to pin first vinyl over the toe. My last build used Weblon. It's a urethane backed vinyl that is stronger and stiffer than the regular marine grade. I got it from a boat cushion maker. Unfortunately, it doesn't stretch, so there's some awkward folds on the toe. I went back a couple of months ago and got more, along with a matching white vinyl fabric to do the toe. Then I thought, has anyone tried using adhesive backed carbon fiber vinyl like vehicle wraps? It stretches and is made to hold up on a car. I have seen some Halo and S.H.I.E.L.D costumes use it on armor. As long as I back the adhesive part covering the laces, I think this should work well for the toe of my new scout boots. The texture kinda looks like the Weblon too, which has a kind of grid pattern in its backing. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

On my last build, I actually used those two lines to attach the top to the dogbone. There was enough give in the material to get under with staple gun instead of rivets. I think it has held together better, with no E6000 poking out at the edges collecting dirt. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I got a real MG42 flash hider in the mail last week. I might leave my scratch built one on there though. I got it pretty close with the lightsaber/funnel/sintra I used.

It's been brought up many times. In cannon material the holdout blaster is the only one seen. You're welcome to carry it at troops that don't specifically ask for cannon characters, but it's doubtful it will ever be added to CRL.

Yeah, with vinyl the first time it wasn't a problem to stretch, but like I said, the "marine grade" at both JoAnn's and Hancock is slightly off-white. I really like the bright white stiff Weblon material for the top part.

So my first pair of boots used the marine grade vinyl from Hancock which is a little off-white and not very strong. The boots themselves are the most comfortable shoes I own. I made another pair last year with the newer "cheap" boots from Walmart and used Weblon (vinyl coated urethane from a marine cushion maker). That stuff is stronger, but doesn't flex, so the toe has some wrinkles where it would have stretched with regular vinyl. Also this base boot isn't as comfortable. I am thinking about doing it again, back on the first base boot. I will use the rest of the Weblon for the top, but I got some matching white vinyl for toe and dog bone. Advice needed: should I rip up the glued down vinyl on the toe or just stretch and glue another layer? Has anyone done this?

Polyester resin and fiberglass is tricky, but it does make a surprisingly lightweight and strong product when you finally figure it out. That is a good looking pepakura model. All the ones I found on RPF and some facebook pepakura groups were too big. I did end up using my first scout helmet build for something a few weeks ago. It was made from the larger pieces of the pepakura model, traced onto sintra, heated to curve and bondo filled in the smaller spaces. I gotta take a better picture of this thing before RustBucket takes it home. Most of the parts on there are either wood, sintra, styrene or parts that RustBucket has left over as he upgrades his KS armor bit-by-bit to SC.

If your boot is a thin weak vinyl, try a layer of something thicker inside, sewn into the top/bottom where the vinyl is folded over and you can stitch it in a couple of spots under the holster. You could use leather or, as I did with my old boots, eisenglass (clear thick vinyl they use for soft top boat windows). Then add the velcro to that and it shouldn't go anywhere, but you might have a little trouble moving.

KS is in Canada, so you might save on shipping, but most of the KS parts are bigger than other builders. MC does quality work, smallest dropboxes I believe, but he has a backlog and can take a long time to ship. I have had nothing but good experiences with SC. I'll send you a pm.

My glasses fit inside a KS helmet. I am wearing it right now.

If I was starting over, I would go with SC over KS. The size difference isn't as much as people claim. The little issues with the KS make it a chore to put together and if you buy it pre-built, you're paying double and you're still gonna have work to do before it's right.

You can do it with an Xacto knife. Just score it about halfway then snap it off.

Sounds like you need to trim a little bit of the leg the off of the shoulder straps on either the back or chest armor. I would start with back, and go just a little at a time so you don't wind up pulling the chest armor higher than the top of the bund. If you are worried about height of bund, then definitely don't attach the pouches to it. The will pull it down. My pouches hang from inside the chest armor.

Yep. That's me.

Where did you find that? Those are rare.

Glad you like it. It's a little lower quality than I like to ship, but I am crunched for time on some other projects right now. A little spot putty (automotive section at walmart) and some sand paper will have it right as rain.

Yeah, that's not based on the Kenner. The Kenner wouldn't have that scope ring, and has a texture on the handgrip. If it's a modded recast, like the ones I make, they did a lot of work, but it looks smaller than mine. That scope is definitely not the Kenner.