NegativeEleven

DarthVoorhees makes a great resin snout. That's usually the first thing to replace on a KS helmet! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I wear glasses with my KS helmet and I have tried on an SC with no issue. I had to do a little work with padding and fan in my KS to make it comfortable cause the lens did press on glasses and give me a sore nose after 30-45 minutes at a few troops. It's fine now, although I wouldn't recommend KS helmets for other reasons. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

posted this in the sizing thread, but I think it's more relevant here... ------------------------- I didn't know RS made a scout. i just acquired a complete Boba Fett from RS, and I am shocked at how thin the vac-formed parts are. There's also a few really obvious things that don't match the 501st CRL. I know RS is well respected for making accurate TK's, but I won't give them the benefit of the doubt on anything else. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

SC's helmet is a bit smaller, but you won't find a better customer service experience than Jeff from SC. Turnaround is usually less than 2 months. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I can make decals. DarthVoorhees can do em too. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I didn't know RS made a scout. i just acquired a complete Boba Fett from RS, and I am shocked at how thin the vac-formed parts are. There's also a few really obvious things that don't match the 501st CRL. I know RS is well respected for making accurate TK's, but I won't give them the benefit of the doubt on anything else. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

There's definitely 3D print files for most of the E-11 and there's plenty of resin parts suppliers, just not here on the biker scout boards. I don't see a reason to 3d print the barrel when a 1.5 inch PVC pipe is way easier and cheaper. I believe I built my ANH E-11 the cheapest way possible. You can cut the accurate handgrip/trigger and endcap off of a Hasbro Rebel blaster. I got a couple of resin parts from eBay and used the templates I posted earlier in this thread for everything else. The only expensive part I used was the original sterling metal folding stock (because I wanted that to work when I was gonna make it a sniper version myself). I got the stock from Apex Gun Parts, which was recommended by DarthVoorhees. I think it was around $45. If you just want a Star Wars sniper rifle with on-screen reference, I built an MG-42 and added a scope to it. That's the gun Dengar is holding in Empire Strikes Back. I have vac-form molds for the barrel shroud and top cover, which along with the WOF templates make a pretty accurate version. I have had WWII buffs compliment me on it.

I think the concensus is that there is no canon e11 sniper. The old Battlefront games had a sniper rifle later named the DC-15x. There's sniper versions of the DLT-19 in expanded universe materials and apparently in Rogue One. It looks like there's going to be a bunch of scouts in Rebels Season 3, so maybe we'll finally have a canon source for scouts with sniper rifles to get it added to the CRL.

Did anyone notice the new rifles in the Rogue One footage last weekend? There was a DLT with a scope and a modded E11 with two barrels and a stock that looks like it came from an AR15.

Search for my tutorial. I showed how to sand off the "pressure button" drill a hole for magnets and replace the button with a transistor from Radio Sack (which should tell you how long ago I made the tutorial). http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=11894

It used to say Kenner sized blasters aren't acceptable. That must have been taken out somewhat recently, right?

Rivet should be metal, not white if you see it from the outside

I have a pretty heavy blaster. With magnets, some packing foam in the holster, and the velcro on flightsuit, I barely notice it anymore. I walk around all the time with it in the holster, even ride my motorcycle in armor.

Oh, screw covers. They sell those at Lowe's. I never thought of using them to make rivets softer! http://m.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-Group-14-in-x-14-in-Black-Plastic-End-Cap/3012661

I put those slide pull spring holders on my laces, and my boots have the hook things on the top couple of holes for laces. I find the best way is loosening them enough to get foot in there, then going around the top couple of hooks, then pushing the slide down. This... http://www.joann.com/dritz-double-cord-stops-for-1-8in-cord-2-pkg-black/5086533.html#q=Cord&prefn1=brand&prefn2=prod_type&prefv1=Dritz&prefv2=Product&start=5

I actually sewed two strips of velcro down the vinyl behind the holster to stick to the leg of the flight suit. I had a strap initially, but cracked the corners of my first holster by having too much tension with the strap pulling the edges against my leg.

That paint probably won't be strong enough to hold a weighty blaster in place.

Got my Fett ammo belt from them in 2010. It was some cheap Chinese cell phone cases that were way different than the ammo pouches pictured on ebay.

I bought off-white canvas and matching straps at a fabric store. Good luck at Hancock though, the one I just left had very little canvas left. No white or off-white.

Cyclegear.com sells "heat out" which is like under-armor, but actually pulls heat away from you. I use that or Nike pro combat dri-fit shirt. Under armor feels like a wet bathing suit to me. The Nike stuff actually seems to block sweat. It's probably not healthy, but I don't have a soggy flight suit after.

You gotta put a strap on it. I know carrying mine gets old real fast. Oh, and be careful not to rub that black paint on your chest armor.

Yeah, I totally missed Lou's tutorial when doing my blasters. A couple years after that was posted, I put up a tutorial for adding round magnets under the transistor. It's much stronger if you can get your blaster cast with the magnet embedded in the resin though. Edit, here's my 2014 tutorial. Either will work, but if your holster is already mounted to the boot, Lou's tutorial will be easier. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?/topic/11894-Adding-magnets-to-a-resin-blaster

The blaster builders club isn't very active anymore, but the E11 templates they have are great. Still have a few small pieces to work on, but I am quite happy with the build I did starting with 1.5in pvc pipe and real Sterling stock, plus these template pieces cut from styrene. http://negativeeleven.com/501/e-11-ANH.zip I agree, this model should be called DC15X, as I don't think there was ever a canon E11 sniper.

I have been losing interest and going back to my E11 build for close to 4 years now, so you'll get no judgement from me. Looking good so far.

Yeah I would say 2 of the 4 pieces of the KS helmet were what people are calling purple-ish. The other 2 were white. It was clearly 2 different plastics. I would have been fine with it all that color, but having the 2 next to each other would have looked bad and so I painted the whole thing. I'm having a similar problem with shoulder bells right now because I replaced one a couple of months ago. The new one is white, while the other has a visible yellow tint. I know that's something that we all deal with on our armor over time, but it's real obvious when you put one new piece in the mix.