4505Marcel

Hey Chex, we still think the shoulder bells look too flared, I cant see one but I cant see clearly on the picture but do you have any elastic around the bottom of the bell and around your biceps, same as a TK would have. This would pull your shoulder bell and vest in a little and will give you a better line.

I removed my chin cup, basically it seemed to catch the inner cheek sides when I talk which was annoying. They do look better though with cup on. But then again i do have 40mm fans in each cheek so that may have been whats catching

When I ask for measurments I usually say the bund should start at the bottom of where the belt is, upto around nipple height (lower if the lady bits are gunna get in the way) to give enough to stay well under the chest plate. The cod piece ideally wants to stop just short of centre undernieth so it doesnt show from behind. Dont forget you need 7 verticle stich lines giving 6 raised areas on the front between the pouches and a 50mm black elastic as a thong strap I normally attach the thong elastic at the back between the seams and have the front of the thong poppered onto the cod undernieth as its then esy to dree yourself.

Thankyou

Ahh missed it il take listen now

Please can you post up some pictures of your tank top and bicep T bits

Hey Chex, can you please post a close up picture of you bicep armour showing the T bits.

Well done mate, although I may just have to knock you off your speeder on deployment to dirty that sucker up

To be honest ive only ever heard radio chatter on the TD's, anyone got a file to share for TB's id be interested to hear whats included

I normally take a rectangle of fabric, fold it. Sew up two sides, turn inside out and iron flat. I then add a 25mm wide piece of velcro to the top of the closed long side, and zig zag stitch the bottom open section. I then sew the pouch flap to the pouch, while in the open position, I then lay the piece I described above over the pouch flap, ensuring the zig zag stitch end is covering the top of the pouch, and sew pretty much the same line that I sewd when attaching the flap to pouch, I then run anouther stitch just above the zig zag . When flap is closed you end up with a sticky up part with the velcro on to attach to your bund or chest armour. Hope this makes sense.

Great idea recycling an old jacket bro, alot of work though . Although I wouldnt say Tandy is pricey, think I paid £22 with shipping for my pig suede from them. As it goes the hide I got was enough for probably 4 sets of patches and flaps, so if I sell on the rest it would be cheap I feel. I kept the rest of mine for Predator progect parts, but at the end of the day if the end result is the same good on ya bro. Look forward to seeing your scout come together.

Agreed Id say your thigh straps want to be tighter and flight suit border line on baggyness, also because you have lowered your belt I can now see black between your belt and bund at the back, ideally your bund wanted to be anouther 1" or 2 wider to hide the gap. For lancer I would also question the colour of your pouches, the standard say white or off white ( that part is a can of worms really and hard to pin point) id say yours are too near beige looking at the pictures? Also the clips that hold your TD on will have to come off for lancer, the TD only wants to be tie wrapped on as per film and possibly a shade shorter bro. Your not far off though and you have a tidy scout there mate.

Welcome to the Squad bro, top job

Mate thats sucks, glad your up and trooping again though

Not bad at all for a first attempt, I would agree though the trim does look upside down, did you use the templates on here?

I shall make sure my speeder remains faster than hers though

Awesome thanks Daan

Awesome news, now we can bash trees together as the best of the best. Well done hun!!!

I personally dont cut the toes as they seem to wear out really quickly from past experience, only the heel is required to be cut at present for Lancer so thats what I do to mine.

If your going for SC armour id make your boots about 70-75mm BELOW your actual knee cap bro as the armour will hang down about 50mm below your knee cap, the 70-75 will give you the little gap required to look right. Are the sole on your boots all the same colour as they look a couple of different shades? You really want boots with one colour soles bro

Yeah ive had them in my bucket for 2 years and they work fantastic bro, I have 4 in total in mine I believe they were 10mmx3mm round. 2 in the face plate near the bottom and 2 in the part of the helmet where the chin strap would run on an MLC, so they snap together when closed. No kiddies grabing your helmet will seperate these, they take some force to to do. Im guess smaller magents would work but I lke the power mine have. I just 5 minute epoxy glued mine in and put plenty around the magnet too. I wouldnt want to drop shut my face plate as the way my magnet grab it would shatter them.

Nice work mate, youve done a top job. Only thing that stands out to me is the 2 tone sole, but the workmanship is spot on. Well done!

Cant say ive ever had an issue of slumping boots They both will drop about 20mm or so as you get the natural creases in the ancles, but this happens to any boot, my boots are just fine with the gun in the holster and mine are now 2 years old

Job well done mate, are your soles one colour though as it looks like there is a lighter strip around the top? If so you really want a one colour sole, and to be more accurate you need to cut some grooves in the heal (sort of raising whats there) but apart from that nice

Id say it doesnt want to be any more than 1/2" below, or it then does look like a Tshirt, but that is very hard for someone to get right if its being made for you without being pinned pre sewing.