-
Posts
1,925 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
135
Everything posted by Chef
-
I think you should bung up all the other pics too. looking good!
-
And at that cost.... You'd have to be mental if you're from this side of the pond.
-
Hmmmm. Does look like the care an attention side of things has been missed. When you consider that Jeff (SC) pre trims all his stuff and it comes looking like the dogs dangles out of the box (despite a few mould inaccuracies), so it's a great kit, and I assume MC is the same. I hate to say that the KS kit seems to leave a lot to be desired. The question is do you bite the bullet and spend the time sorting out something that in my opinion isn't really fit for purpose, which will cost you some heartache no doubt. Or do you think about sending it back and getting something like an SC kit which will add delay to your build but will ultimately be a more satisfying experience. I don't like sounding like a grumpy old git, but it just burns me a little that people think that this sort of thing is acceptable.
-
What's the rest of the problems bud? Sounds like you've had a bit of a bum deal.. But fear not, with the help in here, everything is overcomeable. Edit.... Ignore that, I see you've done another threadnn
-
Yup send it back with a snotty message is what I say.. I don't know why most people seem content with such shoddy service. The bund isn't a majorly difficult bit to make. Can take some time, but not drastically complex. You'll need a couple of metres of white fabric, cotton drill or similar, some wadding and your black elastic and a small nugget of Velcro. If you get stuck, I'm sure there are people on here who can see you straight at short notice. Just drop us a PM if you want any pointers.
-
Depends on what you mean by 'off white'. If it's considerably off, then yes that will be an issue at a guess. Best post some pics up with it against an armour part to gauge the difference. To be honest, if it's not up to spec, then personally I'd be sending it back and either asking for them to do it again toot sweet or to refund my money. Just out of interest how much did they charge for it? Im truth, things like the ribbing and the strap width shoud be right from the start. You shouldn't need to pay good money for something that's not right from the start. Especially if you've had to wait for ages for it in the first place. Complaining about it being a 'hobby' or 'materials' is just off in my opinion. If they've taken your money, they should be right on it! But that's just me.
-
I've had this problem, but it was more due to the chest armour rising up, rather than the bund falling down. I've done this on my Storm Commando, with perfect results. I added a few poppers to the top of the bund, and then glued in corresponding poppers (through a bit of webbing) to the inside of my chest armour. I've got braces on my Scout bund, so either solution works just as well as the other.
-
Andy's lid and those that Acrylikhans Tutorial are based on illustrate exactly why I say that people shouldn't knock the Rubies as a budget lid. If you've got time/patience you can make something that looks like the above for less than you'd pay for a KS kit (which you'd then have to build). and I have to say, that bucket (Andy's) does look better than some KS ones I've seen.
-
very nice... I think you might need the rest of the bucket though.... hehehehehhe. Just goes to show, even a sows ear can be turned into a silk purse. The lens might need to be a bit darker though, just seems a bit 'see through'.
-
I fully agree, a clean scout is a REMF Scout. That just sounds very wrong.... what you get up to for Valentines day, is your own business! Seriously though, anything like novus, T-Cut, or other light polishes/cutting compounds will do fine, or just use some soapy water and some elbow grease.
-
I can try..... It might not work because it's hosted on the UK Garrison forums, and you have to be registered there to view them. (Lee's over here in Blighty too). I'd try and email them, but for some reason Hotmail is playing silly b*ggers and won't let me upload any files for transfer. Plus it's too big to do through something like FaceAche.
-
does look very nice. I like the detail. The only thing I can see that might not be quite correct is the cylinder. I think it should be more 3/4 of a tube, rather than a straight half. if that makes sense. Other than that, it's pretty cool.
-
It's all in the tutorial I've sent to you via PM Lee...
-
did you have the urge to shout 'Dakka Dakka Dakka!!!!"
-
Leave it with me Bro.... I'll take a peek tomorrow morning and see what I drag up.
-
make your own bud.... much cheaper and is a doddle. search eBay for 'pin stripe tape'. It'll crash your PC with how many results you get. 2mm thick if memory serves. maybe 3mm.
-
that's the crux of the issue. I managed to make my first DP bucket for £120 FINISHED.... which was less than a kit of any description! Acrylikhan turned these 'sows ears' into real silk purses. So they can end up as perfectly troopable lids. Some of his stuff are works of art!
-
How tall should the shaft on the boots be?
Chef replied to BH-0938's topic in ROTJ Biker Scout Soft Parts
Flero's idea is a good one. You can always take stuff off, but you can't put it back in! I generally work on the height being about 3/4 of the height of your calf. Sit with your thigh parallel to the floor, measure the distance from the floor to the back of your leg. If that's 18" (as it is in my case), then your boot wants to be about 13-14" high when finished. 3/4 of 18" being 13.5" The boot material has a 1" fold over at the top, so this needs to be added on. So the height of the template for the material will be approx 14-15". Obviously, you'll need to adjust these measurements to suit yourself. Hope this helps. -
E6000 glue. Works a treat. Did you know your 'Fish-hook' detail on your lid is on the wrong side?? It should be on the left? Other that that.... looks exactly as a set of SC should look.
-
yeah, as BJ says, it's real. That $75 mark is about what they go for currently, so it's not over priced really. But it will need a lot of work to get it clearable to troop. If you're on a budget, and have the time/skills to do the mods, then they are a good bucket to have and you can end up with a very good lid. If you're after a get it out of the box and bung it on your head lid, then this isn't for you. It will need the Rubies logo removing from the rear, the decals need changing, the visor flare needs correcting, the visor bolts need replacing, the snout needs changing, the lens needs changing and the inner lens area needs trimming back.... and then you'll probably want to paint it again. Sounds like a lot..... it is. But you can still do a decent lid for about $120, which is less than most of the other kits out there. The choice is yours, there are plenty of guides and tutorials out there, and plenty of help in here.
-
personally bud, I'd make the top of the crotch bit a little wider. Check out this screen grab, you can see that it's actually fairly big. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&image=414 Also, you'll need to make sure that it doesn't show any white on the backside area.
-
MotM has been considered incorrect since forever! You only have to look at the lack of greeblies to work that out. So much so that I try not to use it as reference unless I really have to. Even the new 'walk-around' on the BluRay is not correct. Yes it has given us a few pointers and opened up a few new details to help us improve the costume, but that should not be used as a Canon reference to the overall look! The only thing you should consider to be a Canon reference are those bits you see between when Darth Vader goes to inspect the 2nd Death Star and when he's burned on the Funeral Pyre. It's not a question of cost.... it's a question of detail/fit/finish. The difference in cost between cleared, EIB or Centurion is probably only a few quid in real terms.it's just all the lumps, bumps and other TK related doohickeys that set them apart. So for the Scout, this is about pouches being set correctly, drop boxes not hanging around your @rse, suit not being like a circus tent, using the correct materials etc. Some people don't want the hassle of going to this much detail, and that's fine. That's why the choice exists. If you start down the line of, "well.... it doesn't matter that, that bit wasn't used in the film..." You end up like this guy.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/costume-and-armour-/270890138749?pt=UK_Collectables_SciFi_fantasyCollectables_EH&hash=item3f124f7c7d#ht_500wt_1363 So in terms of cost... yes, it's not much different. But that's not the point. I always advise people to start their build with the screen accuracy/ top level in mind. It's only a question of sourcing natural cloth instead of nylon webbing etc. So it really doesn't make much of a difference in terms of cost and time, but the end result is much much better. How's this for a question... Who would be up in arms if they made the Lancer requirements much more difficult?? There is (in my opinion) still so much that needs addressing with this. So just remember.... over here in the UK petrol (gasoline) is the equivalent of $9.32 a gallon. My point is.... Consider yourselves lucky. Things can always get worse.
-
They are high.... check out this screen cap. http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&image=414
-
Or DonJarr on eBay.
-
You shouldn't need to trim that much off of SC armour. Yes, it is a bit big (one of the bigger sets), but you should find that it's flexible enough to suit you when it's worn. So I would think that you won't need to mould the forearms. Just use the elastic to pull it into shape. Drop boxes should sit about 2-3 inches below the belt line. Crotch patch.... yes, it's a bit of a dog to do with an older machine. I had the same issue. In the end I just unpicked the outer leg seam, and opened it up flat. Sewed it all up, then re-sewn the seam. This also allowed me to take out the suit bagginess at the same time. So in essence, it wasn't as harsh as it first sounds.