Chef

They were a thing alright... I think they were released at a similar time to when Attack of the Clones came out, and in true merchandising fashion they just re-hashed the old Scout models and painted them to have the same camouflage pattern as the Kashyyyk trooper and called it that... Saves money making a new model! They also did a Galactic Heroes one (big hands big feet) which was basically the same design. Shocking things. I've got one hiding on my shelf somewhere in it's box along with Yoda. Can't remember whether Lego jumped on the bandwagon too, or whether they physically made a Kashyyyk version. I seem to remember somewhere in one of the books that it mentioned the Empire returning to camouflaged Scouts after the Battle of Endor where they suffered badly. I've not quite managed to find it again, so I may have just been dreaming it.

That's the fella. I've got the complete sprite case saved somewhere on my laptop, but all the parts seem to be listed on that wiki. It's the same basis that the Swampy CRL was formed from. I've been trying to get this finished since 2012 but life just keeps getting in the way.

There is the Forest Trooper from the StarWars Galaxies MMORPG. That is a camouflage Scout and has sufficient reference to get past the LMO "new to the Legion" process. No-one has attempted it yet (it's on my list - when I get some time to myself...), so it would have to go through the process to get it on to the rosters. But there is an opening for it yes. All of the stuff for that is held over on the Spec Ops forum and on my Macbook.

There isn't one 'yet' to be honest. Well, not on the CRL. But watch this space. The scoped version of the DLT-19 is always a hot favourite, as is the E-11s/DC-15x.

Brow stripes are grey, fish-hook is grey/silver, barcode is black. Gareth... I've got you covered.

Depends on what lid it is... There's no official 'size' in measurement. Just that the indent in the ear must be removed. (I would link to a picture, but with PhotoBucket being borked I can't... sorry).

Stay on target.. Stay on target... (I'm sure that's a line in a film or something...)

You're fortunate that it is too big... It's easy to take material out. A lot more complicated to put it back in! It should be any easy fix

Looking neat there buddy. I can't see anything there that should necessarily stop basic clearance for you. Just a couple of the finer points (because we're like that!). You might want to sort out the cod section on your bund... Looks a bit crumpled (clearly a hard time on the bike!). Your bund is dropping below your belt line at the back, so hotch it up an inch or so. Bund closure at the rear is not central. I guess this is due to the bund being a bit too big and has been altered to suit. TD Greeblie is on upside down (for Lancer at least... won't stop clearance). Might want to bring your drop boxes up a touch higher and realign the buckles (right rear seems to be on backwards compared to all the rest). That's about it short of any specific strap sizings and the such like. Good job!

Yeah, velcro went all the way down to the sole.

Hi Paul, I've answered this for the most part over on the UKG forum on your WIP thread. For the tank... There are a couple of methods. Firstly, you can make up an L-shaped bracket from the spare plastic in the kit and glue/rivet this to the back plate at the correct height so it sits under the top edge of the tank. Place the tank in the right place (with the greeblie already attached) and then drill down through the faux rivet on the greeblie through into the L-shaped bracket. Rivet it in place. The bottom can simply be riveted through from the outside onto the back plate. Be careful with this one as the rivet doesn't need to be boosted up until it pops as this may stress the plastic on the bottom of the tank. Just squeeze it up until it's grabbed and then snip off the rest of the rivet shank. This will produce a nice flush fitting tank. OR... You can use the screen used method which was to attach the tank using some elastic. 12mm elastic gets riveted to the top of the tank under the greeblie again and this then goes over the top of the backplate and is secured on the inside somewhere. Jeff has a great reference picture on his site here. http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/images/washko_023_scout_backpack01.jpg The bottom one attaches to the inside of the tank and then goes either around the bottom of the back plate and then is secured on the inside of the back plate. http://www.studiocreations.com/howto/bikerscout/images/washko_051_mvc-329f.jpg This will allow the tank to float about a bit and whilst screen accurate, might lead to a few questions from the public upon close inspection. So there you go...

Pretty much yes... Use the suit to make your patterns from, lay the suit flat and follow the pattern from your particular suit. That way they will fit neatly onto it. Remember to add about 10mm around the seam edges for seam allowance.

Anything can be cleared, depending on how much work you put into it. And that's the point... Nothing is '501st Clearable', because it is always down to the final finished item as to whether it would be clearable or not. You can't buy a kit and be 100% guaranteed clearance. It just doesn't happen that way. You could get a kit of an RS lid (if such a thing existed) and make a lash up of the construction, or a real sows ear of a kit and do a load of mods and make a stunning helmet. I do note that the listing is for just the 'visor', and you have to buy all three parts at $65 each, which makes it close to $200 all in. You can probably find a much more established and better kit out there for that kind of money.

Essentially that lid is a direct recast of a Rubies (that's had some of the usual deformation corrected). All the hallmarks are there. The filled in eye section with the bar down the centre, the snout line indent and he's even gone as far as to put in the rivet holes in the visor top, which as we all know is completely wrong. The Rubies lid itself isn't all that far off in terms of physical shape when corrected. It's a bit short/squat, but not all that far out.

Visible stitching around the outside of the patch is perfectly acceptable. It was present on the screen used scouts and there is no way to avoid that part. Up the inseam... Well, that's not so critical. It just makes patterning from the base material a little bit easier. The whole patch is sewn on in one go, around the outside. The seams that you see (along the inseams) are usually just where the individual bits of the patch have been sewn together prior to applying it to the suit.

Looks about right buddy. The trick is "less is more". Weirdly it'll look heavier in person than it does on a picture (no idea why!), so if you can see it but it's not too heavy in the photos, then you've probably got it just about spot on.

No, Jeff is the owner/creator of Studio Creations armour of which this looks to be identical (to his older stuff). So unless this chap is Jeff himself, then this armour is likely to be a recast and probably avoided. Jeff is a good chap and ripping off his armour is a poor show indeed.

They fit the criteria buddy.

No worries dude. If you need any help, just shout up.

Unless that is Jeff on Etsy, then I'd say that this is a recast of his stuff. The knees are a dead giveaway. And they're his old spec ones. I'd avoid and find another seller, or go to Jeff direct.

It's best if you can get them as central on the outside of your arms as possible. In the films they were all over the place because unless they are anchored down, they tend to have a mind of their own.

There are a number of options for this Steve. You can go with body filler, which is pinkish (or greenish, depending on what activator they have), but that will mean that you will need to spray your entire lid afterwards. This will also address any scuffs and scratches it may have. You can use a builders caulk which is white. This tends to go a bit yellow over time, so you may need to be careful with this one. But caulk is paint over-able. Or a Silicon sealant. This is less likely to yellow, but you won't be able to paint it. Paint wise, any automotive paint will do the job. Unless you've got a decent auto-factors place near you, Halfords Gloss Appliance White (use white primer) will do the job nicely.

Fibreglass or GRP as it is also knows (Glass Reinforced Plastic) is essentially the same thing as a resin helmet, with one added facet. The Glass. The glass matting is added in to add strength the resin and make it less frangible. Basically a glass fibre matting is embedded into the resin of the helmet as part of it's construction process. It doesn't necessarily make them any heavier, because you need less resin to create the same strength, so they can be thinner for a given strength. Pros and Cons It all depends on what resin the helmet is made from. With a fast-cast PU resin, it's unlikely that they'll put in a glass matting purely due to time. I have seen it done, but it isn't common. A GRP one can be stronger and less likely to distort, but again it all comes down to construction. As badly laid up GRP Mat can be just as fraught with danger as a badly slush cast resin one. Always check the inside of a GRP helmet to see what the lay-up is like. If you can see dry patches or air bubbles where the matting has not been properly encased in the resin, then it will be weak and prone to failure. Polyester resins can be a bit brittle. GRP stuff is easy to repair with readily available repair 'kits'.

Most people seem to heat them up gently until they go a bit soft, then press down in the centre of them with some dome shape, maybe a ball or similar. Doesn't need to be a lot. So go steady. Less is more.

Gino, I think you're reading it wrong. There's nothing condescending intended at all, and if it's been received that way I apologise. (inflection is conveyed by the reader not the writer). What I am saying is that because 'you' made these items personally, you shouldn't need to be concerned with NDA's or the such like with showing stuff that is from the archives and potentially putting yourself in a situation because of it. You're not discussing stuff from the archives, you're discussing stuff that you have made. So I'd be curious as to why you feel as though what I said was condescending. Your suit is the closest thing out there... I've said that before, I'm sure. That's no mean feat and high praise indeed. But it isn't 'screen used'. That's not a criticism, merely a fact. And with anything that is not screen used, there is an element of difference. We know the boots aren't sierra ones (yet.. I know you've got some and are working on it), nothing wrong with that because they are as rare as rocking horse poop. But because of that we can't say "this is how they were..." with the ones you have on your mannequin currently. We know the Thermal Det tube is the wrapped type, but still haven't identified what was actually used, same for the clips. As for the orientation, well... I know for certain that the greeblie was placed on any which way. Tabs both up or down. We've screen evidence for this. As for the dot on the left or right, we also know that it did 'appear' on both, but some of those shots were cinematic flips. I'm not saying I'm right (far from it), and always willing to see a screen grab to illustrate otherwise. Likewise the tank topper detail. Maybe there were ones on set that had that detail, but short of a screen grab to confirm it, unfortunately we can't add it into the detail for the specs here. As fantastic as archive stuff is, unless it's in the public domain it's simply not 'admissible'. Yes, it can make us look more closely at certain elements that are in the public domain to confirm it (zip tie shoulders for instance) but without it being available for scrutiny, then we really can't use it as justification. Same goes for fabric... Is it categorically the same item as was used back on the film set? Or as close as you can find currently? Again, that's not a criticism, merely a fact of 'time'. We're 30 years down the line. Finding a batch of the original fabric is practically impossible. I'm well aware of that and no-one is knocking it. But with that 'time' comes discrepancy. No replica is 100%. Hence we can't say 100% that "this is how it was". Again, don't take that as a criticism. Just a fact of the matter. You have to remember we've picked apart the MotM exhibit for not having the greeblies on and the red square on the tank topper, and the Blue-Ray walk round for being badly dressed and all those other little idiosyncrasies. And they ARE screen used (or at least production made). This is the quest for knowledge and being able to definitively nail stuff down. Not pulling apart your work. You've also touched on the 'standards' that we need to have to create our CRL's. This is very true and where discrepancy lies (even on the film set stuff), we need to standardise it at some point to create consistency. That's an unfortunate by-product of film set sloppiness (remember they didn't expect us geeks to be poring over the detail for hours and hours) versus the nerdy OCD afflicted masses.