Chef

I've always said, that with some time and effort, the sows ear that is the Don Post / Rubies can be turned into a silk purse of a lid.

I think in the initial sense.... contacting people such as Hi-Tec and Palladium and shooting the query across their bows to see if they are up for it will in the grand scheme of it, cost nothing. It's covering that base. If that's a non-starter, we've lost nothing as you say, and we're good to go with your fine chaps. Currently Andy, your bit seems the most solid, without a doubt, but let's not ignore the sniper shot from the flanks! The best course of action would be to approach some of these overseas boot makers and see if they can give a rough estimate as to a cost per unit for boots. At least this way, it would give a good idea of if it's feasible or not. That would be my view.

Well, my line would be "can you put this sole on the latest design of boot you do??" The actual upper part is really of no consequence to us, as it will be covered over anyway. So as long as the general shape is in the same ballpark then we're good. And the sole pattern won't matter to most members of the general populous because they'll be standing on it 99.5% of the time. Obviously, they'll still get sales because people buy their boots, but their appeal will increase, because all of us nerds will be buying them rather than the hiking style boots we all buy currently. WIN WIN for everyone.

If it helps... I glue ALL of the sides of the dog bone, and then JUST THE EDGES (say 10-15mm) in the centre bit as it goes over the bridge of the foot.

Sensitive.... I'm not sure anyone has ever described me as sensitive. Abrasive... possibly. I wouldn't put you in the sensitive category either for that matter!

cool, just like to cover the bases. I'd hate to think I just assumed you'd thought of it and kept quiet, then the mistake is discovered when it's too late.

Philipp, you'd need to modify that sole pattern. On the heel there is a horizontal strip that went around the heel on the screen used boots. If I recall, it was because the boots were of and older design. You can see it here... I'd much rather point that out now.... than make a run and someone get up in arms about it.

Fibreglass (GRP) is a funny beast. It can be made to be as solid as a rock, if it's lay-up is correct. Hence the reason they make car parts and boats out of the stuff. For your stuff to crack like that, it has either been kicked about the parcel room floor, or it's a bit on the thin side, or it's got some air pockets in under the gel coat layer. You can tell it's transit history from the box! If the box looks like it's been trampled on by a herd of elephants, then you can blame the couriers. If the box is OK, then you need to blame the person who made it! Repairing GRP is relatively simple.... IF you know how to work with GRP. If you don't, it can be a nightmare fraught with all manner of danger. Depending on how he repairs it, would also dictate it's future strength. Repairs to GRP can be made to be stronger than the original part if done properly. But if their not... it will only crack again in the same place. Either way, you have received an item that is not in the condition in which you paid for. I'd get him to either repair or replace it. not pleasant for you, but really, you should get what you pay for.

E6000 all the way! My boots are probably 5 years old now and still going strong. I'm waiting for them to fall apart so I can update them a bit.

^^^^^^^ as above.

Yup, glue the whole bleedin' lot. I pull it down over the boot and stretch it into position, so there are no unsightly gaps... I then either tape, or pin the bone in place (at the bottom, near the sole) whilst the glue dries.

Yup, depending on what needs doing... if it requires trimming down, then I suggest using something like Lexan scissors, or Aviation snips, to get the rough shape, then I use a harsh grit paper like 38-40 grit to cut to the correct shape, then sand smooth using 120 grit or finer. If your armour is already the correct shape, and you just need to clean the edges up a bit. Like the above say, 240 grit or there abouts... Hope this helps, Rob

Andy Slater actually approached Hi-Tec once about these boots and although they no longer had the schematics to these boots, one of the chaps there remembers them. They didn't sound averse to the idea of making them, they just said that it was unfeasible due to them not having the technical drawings for the sole. Could be worth some cheeky emails in their direction.

That's MC armour my dear boy... Good spot on the forehead stripes. The boy's got talent.

Yeah, shoot Marcel up for the Bund/Pouches. if you struggle with the suit, flak vest. I might be able to assist.

I'm not saying one way or another personally. I'm just pointing out screen evidence to suggest both. If one is agreed upon, then it should be used. But if the Blu-Ray walk around is to be assumed to be a screen used suit, and we know the TD is on upside down. If you flip it the correct way up, then the indents on the greeblie would point downwards. Which ties in with some of the screen shots. What I want is someone who has the capability of decent screen shots to grab those that I have, but with some clarity. My old Sony, coupled with having to then take a picture of the TV itself, really screwed up the pictures.

The truth is, we don't truly know. Personally, I think there may have been both, or even ones missing. Here are some screen grabs from my blu-ray. The quality is crap, but that's the pixilation from my rather old HD TV taken on my Digital Camera. So here you go, make you own mind up. So which ever way you look at it, you can see gap down, cylinder innermost (which would mean gap up) and probably not even there at all (but a dark patch where it should be!). Draw your own conclusions from those little babies!

inches are fine... I can do the conversion. 1" = 2.54cm

As I said over on the Garrison forum, there's nothing particularly 'wrong' with this bucket. The shape is OK... better than some I've seen, but could be better. It's no 'Star Fortress', so all is not lost. The ears, well, the shape inside is nothing a bit of work with a dremel won't sort out. I'd centralise the snout a bit, and on the inside I'd beef up the join a bit. It just looks like who ever built it just gave it a wipe of filler / chemical metal to create the join. The lay-up does look very thin, and therefore won't be very strong. it will be brittle and prone to cracking should it get bashed about too much. But it will be relatively light. I'd go as far to say that it is only a 1oz lay-up (possibly even less, with just a tissue), which is only half as thick as I'd recommend as a minimum for a GRP lay-up. I use 2-3oz on mine, with up to 4oz in the critical areas like edges. It's certainly not a basket case by any stretch of the imagination.

Yes... it's the small decal on the left blinker of the helmet shroud. Looks like a fish hook. on the rubies helmets, it's a rounded version that is incorrect. The correct one should be a silver squarish thing, broken down into 4 trapezoid shapes.

There are other fibreglass buckets too. The big problem with GRP buckets is the main bucket opening. Because fibreglass is pretty solid, the is no 'give' in this area to allow you to squeeze your head in. So this is the critical size you need to know. Once past this, even the biggest head should fit inside most buckets. I've a 57cm head and it fits inside my GRP bucket. I've found SC is one of the biggest armour makes, I think KS is pretty big too.

Seeing as this question keeps coming up... I thought I'd start something. So, the aim of this thread is to gather all the information about various lids out there, seeing as it is unlikely there is one person who owns ALL the buckets in existence. What I require from you the members is to take a few measurements and/or pictures of your buckets and post them up in here for comparison. Please try to keep to the same set of measurements. I've measured the following. (all in cm). Please keep to the format. Bucket Make, Material, Version (if applicable). 1: Opening Width (across the main bucket opening, as this seems to be the narrowest part and causes issues getting your noodle in) 2: Opening Length (from snout to back) 3: External Height 4: External Length 5: External Width Please don't spam the thread with various posts of 'great thread' or 'lovely bucket' because they don't really help and just clutter the place up. Without further ado.... my Bucket. (please be advised, due to camera perspective, some of the measurements look funny on the pictures, but be assured, they are as per the specs I have put in) Chef HIPS Plastic V1 Opening Width = 16.5cm Opening Length = 22cm External Height = 22cm V.2 is now 23.7cm External Length = 28cm External Width = 22cm I'm a 57cm head and it goes in quite comfortably. Cheers all. Some more from Chris (Negative Eleven), many thanks for your input. This will prove invaluable for everyone on BSN. 1st up, Kropserkel Lid. Next up a "Rubies". This is in it's original state and badly deformed, as they are all when they arrive. So these sizes can be taken with a pinch of salt. Rubies lids as you can see need a LOT of work to get clearable. But they can be made to be very very good. Lastly, the Star Fortress.. Not a very popular lid and to be honest, best avoided for a number of reasons. And an SC Bucket from Heidi. http://forum.bikersc...lery&image=2305 http://forum.bikersc...lery&image=2306 http://forum.bikersc...lery&image=2306 Griff, it won't let me picturise these, can you do the honours for me?

MC armour and MLC Helmet should be good enough for Lancer out of the box... But the main thing about Lancer is the fit and finish of the overall costume. So nothing is guaranteed. If you've got a decent fence... I'll sit right on it! hehehhehe.

That was me... I've used it with HIPS (High Impact Poly Styrene) and I almost get the opposite, it goes down into a rubbery goo. Not like a butter, but a soft rubbery consistency. Sorry it's not working out too well, I've had nothing but success with it so far. I think if you are going to weather it, and you're cute with how you do it (taking good care across the seams etc...) then I wouldn't think you'd need to repaint the whole bucket. Any slight discrepancies can be taken out with the weathering. But ultimately it's your GML who will be clearing it.

Hey bud, there are a number of ways to do this. They need to sit pretty much just under the chest armour. You can either sew them to the bund (top edge only), or you can add a strip of velcro to the inside of your chest armour and stick them on that way. Ultimately how you do it doesn't matter, as long as the placement is right. I'd pull your bund up about an inch or so, so the top edge sits in line with your chest armour straps, and that the bottom of it sits along the belt line (so there's no bund protruding below your belt). that's my advice. hope it helps Rob.