Chef

That's quite a claim Joe.... But I'd have to disagree. Whilst it's very nice, John's (LW) bucket is far superior in terms of shape, more accurate in terms of construction material and method. The LW, in my opinion is probably the best bucket out there currently.

Well... from various discussions with our own GML over the years.... The sideshow collection etc, are licensed LFL produce, so whilst not 'canon' in the tradition film sense of the word, it is 'canon' as in approved by LFL. So the MG34 variant would probably be quite easy to sort.

A lot of it comes down to your individual GML. He/she ultimately is the person who gives the nod to each element of a costume and it's usage. Depending on what type of personality they are, will depend on how successful you are. Some are purely driven by the CRL and will not budge beyond it's parameters. Others (like ours) are very forward thinking and willing to expand the envelope. The canon reference for the BSR was put to him, and Marcel's replica with it. Considering the amazing job Marcel did with it, our GML was willing to push it, considering the reference. I don't know if he had to discuss this with the LMO's or not, or whether he had the autonomy to say 'yes' of his own back. Marcel may be able to shed more light on that particular aspect.

I'd assume the CRL was adjusted to reflect the more stringent nature of the costume when other updates were introduced. As it stands, the ONLY weapons that the Scouts are seen with in any of the canon references are the hold out blaster and the 'Battlefront' sniper rifle, which was given the DC-15x tag (or less commonly the E-11s). Marcel has had clearance to use his Battlefront SR, so the precedent has been set there. But from what I understand, the BSR is 'not' just an MG42 with a scope on. It's a slightly different beast, and Marcel custom built his to match the game reference. Now, from the back-ground blurb to the scout, there is reference made to their using the E-11s, a long ranged version of the E-11. There aren't many reference images of this, and most tend to be of the Battlefield Sniper Rifle. Whether it get's updated on the CRL will be partly down to public opinion, partly down to the staff and mostly down to the LMO's.

Yeah, the screen used scout only has one rivet centrally placed and it is un painted. Just so you know.

After a few buck revisions (always tweaking them... you know how it is...) Here's the latest one. Still a few more minor tweaks that I've found, but they really are miniscule.

Seems fine to me. I'd just bring them slightly to the front. Not a lot... just a touch. If you wanted to take them higher by about an inch, that wouldn't hurt either.

The bottom one (no pun intended) looks the best. The flap will cover the majority of the upper portion, so in essence is doesn't overly matter.

You see, the look of those pouches is a million times better. The bottom part of the flap seems a little thin, I'll let Marcel and the rest of the gang comment on them. Be careful of the flak vest sticking up on top of your shoulders. Like you say, I'd be tempted to shorten the sleeves by half inch or so, and maybe you tighten them ever so slightly to stop them ballooning your bells out. But it's certainly coming together.

Hehehehe... It's the only way they come!

Google it... Just the REMF bit.

I'd just sew the patch up either side of the zipper and have a small slot in the top of the patch, so the zipper function still works. That bit will definitely be covered up by the cummerbund. It's only the outer edges that may show.

Looks cool. I'd make it a little taller front and rear, just to make sure it all gets covered over by the other stuff. But everything else looks mighty fine.

you don't... simple as. If you must be a REMF Scout. Then Novus polish, T-cut, or WD40 (cleans everything!!).

Hi there, Number 2 is probably the better one to use. But remember, it should be tailored to your own frame, rather than blindly following the template. The patch should be high enough that it is covered by the riding flap at the back, and by the cod section of your bund at the front. It should extend down to about 3/4 of the length of your inner thigh (from crotch to knee), and then come round in a gentle curve to the front of your thighs (imagine if you had ironed in seams down the front of your trousers). That would be the rough shape you'll need. **note to self... must draw a diagram for this.**

It is all a relative thing. I tend to advise that the pouch should sit 'somewhere' in the area under the grey bar, depending on your build. Obviously, with the wider pouches that you have, having them start at the outer edge of the grey bar pushes the pouches right out and makes it look daft (as I had originally), yet when you slim them down by an inch, it suddenly doesn't look so out of place. It is a bit of a fine line to tread. I put velcro tabs on the tops of my pouches and a big velcro band in the inside of my chest plate, so I can freely move them around to see what suits best. Yes, the armour does seem wide, but then I'm sure the actors who played them weren't beefcake like you and I. Oh, and here are those measurements for you. Across the chest bottom = 14.25" Across the shoulders (in line with the neck line of the back plate, the neck line of the chest plate dips a bit lower) = 9.75" Height (from bottom of backplate to bottom of neck-line) = 9.5" Height (from bottom of backplate to top of shoulder) 13.75" Hope that helps.

Completely unrelated.... But this issue is going to become more and more prevalent in the future as the film industry relies more and more upon CGI. With no real world reference to base materials, texture and shape upon, the 'real world' costume is going to become more and more 'opinion'. It's not like the good old days where you can go "that was an Esprit set of gloves"... FACT. Which gives you a 'definite' to work towards. Sad, but that's how it's going to be.

Looking good buddy. You're obviously relatively tall (like me), so I'd make sure your forearm armour doesn't drop down. It wants to sit on your elbow, almost touching the bicep armour, rather than down over your glove. Obviously if it's big enough to touch your glove still, it wants to sit on the outside of it. see here, http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&image=381 I put either a popper or a patch of velcro on the inside of the armour bit and the same on the suit, just to make sure it doesn't slip down. That would be my only observation. Everything else you've sorted.

I would say you are suffering the age old problem of 7x7x2 syndrome.... Your pouches are too big. I had the very same issue, and they just pushed everything out. So I've slimmed mine down to 7" high x 6" wide and 1.75" deep. And whilst it's only an inch, it makes one hell of a difference. If you look at this screen grab in our gallery... http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?app=gallery&image=381 You'll clearly see that the pouches are higher than they are wide. And that the inner edge of the pouch lines up with the outer part of the grey slot on the chest armour or there abouts. They will naturally sit quite wide, and towards the arms.

If you look here.... http://www.studiocre...64_mvc-346f.jpg It's on the bicep too. It's incredibly uniform, and very very close to the edge of the armour panel. You can also very faintly see it around the inner part of the chest too. I wonder if it's a bi-product of their cutting/trimming process?

well, seeing as I just made a new buck for my shoulder armour and am in the process of detailing it. seems silly not to. I was going to ask Andi about this as he mentioned it a while back. It does appear to be some form of trim line that they've not quite stuck to. Difficult to reproduce on thick material, but we'll give it a go.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item231f3ac6ed For the webbing. (The cream or light khaki options would probably be your best bet.) You may struggle with the elastic, so you can just soak them in tea for a while, to grubby it up a bit. That, or use a bit of webbing between the armour plates, that is attached to elastic on the inside of the armour plate to allow it to 'give'.

I'd suggest that because they use the good old imperial system still, that 1 3/8th is a pretty odd ball size for them. When 1 1/2 is more common, and is only 3mm wider. Am I the only one who finds the term "men's suspenders" a little amusing?? Over here... What we know as suspenders. http://www.agentprovocateur.com/lingerie/suspenders.html (not safe for work guys). And what we know as Braces... http://www.comedykings.co.uk/index.php/music/rock-on-tommy-album

For the extra couple of 'mm', I'd hazard a guess that 1.5" will be fine. Await a final say so from the boss, but I think you'll be ok.

Avoid those dudes like they have a dose of the clap! Stick to the well and trusted makers. I mentioned them in a PM for you.