Darth Voorhees

i just kind of pull the material through the machine, working with it, and pivot the material as it goes through. This has a little learning.. well...curve...lol...but its not too hard.

yea those are the shadow scout ones. Ive had the regular ones from mike before and they are fine.

those are great! They arent the actual correct ones though..but they are darn close! The actual boot has a horizontal line going around the heel as well... but these are fantistic none the less! Both are super hard to find!

yea goo gone should work. Ive used mineral spirits as well but mostly just for over spray not solid painted areas. You are correct avoid acetone, and Ammonites is also correct do NOT use goof off!

I have a 23" circumference head and the MLC3 just fit me. the space inside gave me a little room but the the front bottom of the main helmet is angled inward alot and thats where my head JUST fit through.

Is there any particular reason why you'd want them to be near you? There are only a few scout armor makers but they arent in the tri-state area. Unfortunately, we dont have scout armor makers in every state lol. There are 2 known reliable makers of scout armor in the USA. They would be MC and SC. If you need more specific info, shoot me a PM.

MLC's are very nice, well made helmets. Ive had a couple in my scout journeys and the only reason i dont have one now is i have an ABS LW helmet. From what i understand the NI is a little bigger ,and it has a slighty more accurate look to me, but ive never owned one or saw one in person so hopefully someone else will chime in about those.

If the old tank is trash, i would just cut the tank off with the dremel cutting wheel leaving about an inch or so on the part attached to the back then you can get to it easier. Worse case cut it again as close as possible and then take a dremel sanding drum and grind most of whats left of it off, the new tank will cover whatever is left. That said, since KS assembled it, it may be stuck on with carpet tape, or something similar....and if thats the case something like goo gone adhesive remover would likey work using the method stasz mentioned. or combining the 2 methods by cutting the bulk of the tsankl off and then using the adhesive remover. Just make sure its not a harsh chemical one that would damage the plastic. Goo gone is safe on plastic.

i cut mine with the cutting wheel on my dremel tool. i cut it a little bigger then is marked and then used the sanding drum attachment to smooth it out and shape it down to the markings. then i just used heatgun to bend it. Personally although these are more work than a regular welders shield, i feel,they are more crystal clear to see through and dont scratch anywhere near as easily. Its worth the extra work to me!

my pouches are also velcroed to the chest plate. About the TD.. i glued a piece of plastic in the center, top to bottom to make it like a belt loop so to speak so i thread the belt through it. It also has velcro on the outside to stick it to my bund to keep it centered. So no matter how much it gets knocked around, im not losing it. You cant see it, and the accurate clips are just for show on mine.

the snaps are pretty cool I just use the suspenders but mine are made out of webbing so they dont stretch out over time and still allow sagging. They seem to stay put from what i can tell in pics lol. I have thought about adding a small "beltloop" on the vest, (and jumpsuit for non vest wearing super hot troops) on the shoulder area directly under the armor to run the cummerbund suspender through to hold it in place, and unseen so that may be an option also.

i beleive rottie makes a kid size pistol for his kids armor, but not 100% sure..Pm him!

PM spike on here about an Altmann's Even if the RS is thinner, as long as its ABS it should still be pretty durable, even if its flexy lol.

I'd bet thats who it is. Good stuff if it is

Ha thats Todd i know that fine fellow lol. The 3d printed ones arent too bad. Youd have to wipe it down with acetone or use something else to remove the print lines/smooth it out (smooth-on makes a product, the name escapes me right now though) to get it looking good though. But they are more durable than resin so thats a plus!

I got him covered Todd.

PM incoming Nikko.. I JUST opened the thread back up, on a limited basis

Id guess it might be, but only because they really make the stuff like the screen used. which was .060 ABS i believe in most cases. But, i may be mistaken with how the scout helmets were. Since they were pincell ABS, they may be thicker plastic..and i think if it is, that RS wold try and match it. Im still looking to grab an RS TK to build for display, so the thickness doesn't concern me, but my trooping one is AM2 because its just so darn durable!

Even with what i said, i agree with Chef as well. Which is why i said they should really adjust their time frames. I myself usually take full payment upfront for things, mostly because i use some of that cash to help buy supplies. I also am ususally on or within a few weeks of my delivery times. I am also a way smaller show. In their case though, im pretty sure they have the costs covered with the amount of orders they get, so a deposit, or at least the option to pay it off when complete, is a good idea for them. But im not here to tell them how to run the show lol. Thats not necessarily true netslave. My garrison mate was #25 on his list for his snowie, (im assuming they have a different number list for every costume they make) and got it within 3 weeks of that e-mail. At this point if you ordered from someone else youd be waiting about the same amount of time, or longer for the kit, i would have just held out the little bit longer , since you were already in it for the long haul, to get the more accurate kit, but of course, its your decision. EDIT..i missed a page of posts and see you are getting your stuff so nevermind, but i'll leve this here just for information sake lol Just keep in mind these guys get ALOT of orders for multiple costumes. I never have an issue waiting, even it is a year wait, BUT id like to be told that it will be that long so i can decide for myself if i want to do that. For a first costume i may skip it, but as a second or third..i can wait..its just playing plastic spaceman .That said, im coming from the Fett community and its very common to wait a long time for certain parts. I had an issue with a particular Fett vendor that i did eventually ask for a refund though...i was quoted 3 months... and was very patient and understanding about delays and real life and everything...but 3YEARS later i had enough and asked for a refund and he got snippy with me, like as if i had no right to be annoyed! ...he did send the refund, but im pretty sure purposely AFTER C7 because i said i could use it for that...and i got it right after i got back. So be glad you are not desling with THIS kind of behavior! With MC you may wait, but you WILL get your stuff. They just need to give more accurate turn around times. *Being in the command staff, i just want to point out that these are my personal opinions and i am NOT speaking on behalf of detachment command, but of my own personal experience.

the run ended already and are currently shipping. Im sure we will do another run, but likely it will be next year

I think they just need to up their wait time estimates because they always take 10 months to about a year. They have been on that time frame for a couple of years now. When i ordered mine in 2009 they were closer to the estimates they are still giving (28-32 weeks). But for the last couple of years, its been about a year for pretty much everyone i know of ordering from them. They do several costumes so they are just very busy, along with their regular business actually working with films and commercials and such. Alot of things factor in to how long it takes. Machines can break down, bad pulls can happen...etc. Try not to get frustrated, as this is very common in this hobby, and as long as they keep communications open i think they are doing fine. Ive never heard of anyone not getting their stuff from MC, and it is always excellent quality and worth the wait.

Sounds to me like it just needs to be updated. I believe the current consensus on the rivet on the knee is white, and the chin-cup is optional as its never seen on screen as far as i know, but was present in a screen used helmet now in a personal collectors hands.

Looks like the heel may be a little too tall on the tan ones, but im sure you can find some with a slightly lower heel. The black pair looks like the heel is smaller but i cant tell for sure, but its better to get a tan soled boot. You CAN paint the rubber to be tan, and if its 2-tone, you can paint it to make it even. Painting a black sole tan is probably not approvable, but im not 100% sure on that. I used "show goo" clear to do my boots and they have held up fine so far. I understand e-6000 is a good choice also. Hope that helped Nicole!

Looks great man, much better!

THAT is a good choice also. I thought the Altmanns were fiberglass though...but it looks like it may actually be vac formed? the more you know lol