Darth Voorhees

Check out this thread i posted a lil while back. I think it'll suit ya http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=10291

I make Scout pistols, and have shipped to canada a few times. Shoot me a PM and check out my sales thread here for pics: http://forum.bikerscout.net/index.php?showtopic=12429

yea and why would it be any different for the scout. they can say the same thing.."industrial design" i think RS is likely safe....for now. But back to the topic on hand...its has been a long while and it sucks you all have to deal with this. Believe me ive been there! sucks!

thats cuz you scout like a BOSS!!!

Doesnt look bad. But if it was mine id go a little taller with the visor area like this:

I didnt order one cuz i didnt have the money, and i usually am all for RS, but this does seem to be getting out of hand for all of you that did order one. I was thinking about ordering one in future run, but now i dunno..maybe i'll wait till someone needs to sell theirs.

Im 99% sure this wasn't there when i went. Also seeing the tag that says Stormtrooper blaster may confirm it was a later edition. I remember seeing the E-11 and DL-44 and DH-17...but i think i would have noticed the Scout blaster! Anywho...those are great pics. Thanks for posting them. Im redoing my molds for my pistols and was planning a few tweaks to the design...these pics confirm the couple of small things i wanted to fix. It also makes me happy to see how close i managed to get it with the few LFL pics i had. (not bragging by any means, just sayin'

I meant this pic that Chef posted.. None the less, what you said is pretty much what i said in my previous post.

I think this is where we should be going. Since at this point in time nothing is visually definitive as to where exactly the cod is attached, just getting the look of the bund on top of the cod should be what we can solidify. In this thread alone there are several pictures where its "right in front of you" obvious that the cod goes behind the bund. The attachment method shouldnt be as important at this time since we have zero visual proof of HOW its attached. What Strider did shoudl be accepable, as well as attaching it to the vest if you want to go that route. The one picture where you see a black space between the bund and the belt is interesting though...that one makes it appear the cod is attached to the belt. But who knows what the deal is with that particular suit. Im all for the "cod behind the bund" look (reguardless of attachment method) approach until we can get more definitive info.

Walt is a good fella, im looking forward to how this comes out

I used the cotton duck cloth from the cummerbund. I just folded it over and sewed it.

Yea im seeing people complaining about the KS quality more and more. At one point it seemed like the molds were deteriorating and they werent bothering to fix them. I think they did do that eventually, but i see alot of thin pulls, or mix matched pulls with thickness and even the color. The last one i had gotten for my wife, that Stasz now owns, it was 3 different whites. Some parts were pinkish and others blueish, so i had to paint it. Which was ok by me as i wanted to fill the seam across the back of the top anyway. All that said, id recommend LW, Chef, or Altmanns for better quality vac'ed helmets these days.

Technically most prop makers are infringing on copyrights. Aside from Anovos, noone has the license to create this stuff. However most stay underground enough, dont make enough money to warrant action, or dont make these things publicly available, as in a website blatantly selling them, so LFL usually turns a blind eye especially because they know most of these guys are selling to Legion or potential legion members, which does benefit them to an extent. As far as the cost, yes, 1 thruster for Boba Fett's jetpack is around $50 if i recall correctly, so a helmet would likely be astronomical and not cost effective to produce.

Yea it was a trick i did on my wifes as we were on a time constrain and we ended up leaving it as it held so well lol

The white snout piece/and riser plate looks good you can use that one..though i wouldnt object to you ordering one of mine that is already cast in black and grey so you dont have to paint it But really the one you have there is fine, toss the grey one, use the other one . Like Spookymufu said, you can get the real 3M bolts in the trade section here.

Lookin good Tristan! Your blaster will be shipping this week BTW

MC's kit is pretty simple in that you dont need to trimm much off it unless your very small. most of the armor parts are ready to go out of the box. you just need to add the elastic straps to the parts. If you cant sew well and want to keep it to a minimum, you can hotglue the straps in on the inside of the parts. From the outside it looks exactly the same, and it wont hinder you 501s clearance. the only thing you may need to trim is the chest and back, where they go over your shoulders. I actully overlap mine about and inch. chest over the back and have a chicago screw holding them together which also holds on the canvas wrap that goes around this area. It keepos everyhting in place very well and is fairly simple to do. Even though i can sew a little, i cant help ya too much on that . You'll need to get a jumpsuit from a maker if you can find one, or modify a redkap (or similar) coverall. That is likely the hardest part. If you know someone handy with a sewing machine, it shouldnt be too hard for them to do the mods.

i put snaps on the nylon part and my cummerbund to keep the belt from sagging, but to attch the nylon ot the plastic, i used velcro exactly like Chunk said.

From what some armor makers have told me, different batches of even the same plastic may be off in color, its apparently never an exact macth which is why sometimes we see slight color changes. I think its more expensive to have it done in a pure white. But that said, yea you can paint it. The movie armor was painted so it'll be more accurate technically lol

Yea Chunk is guiding you well. I pulled mine at least 3 times. until i was happy with it and THEN dded the adhesive. Even if you get it not quite as perfect as Chunk's there..you will be able to get it better than the firt go. Also if you only did the toe areas you should have enough vinyl left to re do them I get 2 pairs of boots out of 1 yard of vinyl with some leftover.

yes its 5 posts i am still doing blasters BTW

Yep! All good advise! Most armor can be trimmed to fit smaller troopers. If you can manage to get MC armor second hand, it is slightly smaller than SC and may be a better start for you. Ordering new direct from them can take a year to get as they are very busy and make multiple different armors for different costumes, so id recommend second hand or a different make such as SC. KS armor isnt so accurate and is very large so id avoid that as well as Atin armor as that one is outdated and inaccurate at this point so for a new build i wouldnt recommend it. Helmets are more available than armor. KS is one of the more popular vac'ed helmets. MLC3 is nice, but fiberglass so it has a little more weight to it. LW is one of the most accurate but hard to get. Altmanns is also a good choice for a vac'ed helmet.

Cant tell for sure, but it looks like the faceplate is either mounted a touch to far back or a bit narrower than the area where it sits on the helmet. You can tell if the faceplate gets pushed apart when you force it closed. You may be able to heat the helmet to either widen that area on the faceplate or narrow that area on the helmet . Id go with the later, as long as you can still get your head in...just to maintain the look of the helmet from the front. It looks like a fiberglass helmet, possibly a MLC3, so it may take a bit of heat, but to make the slight adjustment needed you should be able to do it.

The bucks take alot of time yes, but for the question folks are asking i dont think thats relevant. Im guessing that MC's bucks are already made since plenty of us have his armor One question would be if he had multiple sets of bucks to speed up production. Of course he'd also need multiple people and vac tables to make it efficient. Also keep in mind he doesnt just make scouts. He does snowies TK's and TIE's as well. I recommend both MC and SC for scout armor and always state the pros and cons of both so the member/recruit has a good idea how it will go down and can decide for themselves. Both SC and MC have excellent quality product. As far as i know, SC only makes scouts so in the sense of making armor he couldnt possibly be as busy as someone making 4 different armors, so of course SC's wait times are less. Like Skyscout had mentioned earlier i usually wont recommend MC to someone doing a scout for their first costume because usually they want to get trooping ASAP. That said, i do mention them and like i said, let the recruit decide. I personally dont mind waiting since i have other costumes, but i will also check the legion boards and here for armor if i need it because sometimes folks will sell their armor or their spot in line and that cuts down the wait. MC is not the only vendor that has a long wait thats usually longer than they say. Its fairly common more recently as the legion has gotten more popular the armor makers get more orders, get busier, and take more time. Now i understand that, like was mentioned before, "you dont know these people and they could be taking off with your money" ..but you have to trust the membership here when they tell you a certain vendor is trustworthy and you will get your stuff. If you cant do that, this likely isnt the hobby for you. We all wait for our stuff ...alot of the time longer than we'd like, and there is always the occasional vendor that just falls apart and drops off the face of the earth, but in most cases, we DO get it and quickly forget how long it took because of how happy we are to have it!

Genius! I love this guy lol