lonewolf

Not a great kit, BUT it is possible to get it looking ok. Use a pencil to mark off the cut lines, keeping the nice return edges sharp. Cut with a dremel style cutter , and sand the edges smooth. Using a knife can be difficuly but not impossible. Buy some industrial velcro and use it to join the parts, I am pretty sure you have a LOT to do, it isn't exactly made yet. The boot holster looks like it needs to be glued together, or possibly tabbed into the front section? The belt needs a bit more trimming, but not too much , use the reference library for the actual cut lines. The belt can be bent in an oven for a few moments to egt a curve, or it doesn't need to have a pre bend curve once it is cut down. The drop box is ok as long as you cut it in a shallow curve, to "fit" to your thigh, the dodgy vacformed part will mostly be cut away. Sorry we were not there to advise before you spent the money. All is not lost, good luck.

Looking good Rob, maybe deepen the visor bolt indents. I also needed to add a filler piece below the chin section to allow the plastic to keep thick at the bottom lip. As many pull holes as possible on all the sharp parts. Nice job.

Andi is a good guy, sorry to see him go but I am very happy to see big Chex as XO. Ok guys , back to work

His Ebay feedback is not 100%. I would buy a MLC V3, KS , SC , Rubies,Chef or DP first, in no particular order! Pm me if you want any other info.

Hi Duff, best first post ever, pistol is coming along great

Excellent cod piece appearance, so neat and accurate looking.

I have thought about the "blinkers" visor and just how bad it would be for aerodynamics. Cool design but I suspect very impractical.

I use a black material stuck on the inside of the helmet diectly behind the "ear" hole opening.This is how the originals were done. There is no best way.

I have used a beige dye for pouches and it was quite good, I washed them a couple of times to get the shade I wanted. I have used the tea dying method for my Jack Sparrow shirt and sash. I do have to redye the shirt after a few washes to keep the shade. The problem with dying anything is the uncertainty how it will end up, tea dying is a nice cheap way to darken things and I have a nice wee cup of tea as I do it!

Nice job, helmet looks great.

Excellent job Keith, the writing looks so authentic. Great replica.

Looks great Terry, I am using foam matting, without the plastic, seems to work well.

Two small but great modifications to improve this helmet. Have a very long look at the eye area of an original helmet. You can possibly cut the MLC eye area out to help the eye appearance as well. Nice work.

This topic cames up every so often. The main reason the crl is not updated is because some folks believe the MOM exhibit has an added undersuit, and not a screen used one. I totally believe this to be wrong. The undersuit I use has pockets, it is a racing kart suit. The pockets are a similar shape to the X Wing/Tie Pilot style undersuit.I believe this is what we see in this pic. My pockets stop around this position on the thigh. Terry, I know you have a great eye for detail so my advice is to use your own judgement before you take the CRL as gospel.

Get out there and have fun, you lucky.......

Yes your final pic looks fine,I hadn't seen the belt on you/your stand in. Your belt matches that screen shot really well, I' ll get my coat! SW Chronicles shows where the originals were joined, with the added help of not having a TD to get in the way. It may be a case of body widths.

I think this looks great Terry, you are a great asset to BS.N, new blood, new ideas, we need this

Nice and creative with the magnets Terry, the only "problem" I can see is where you joined the drop box straps at the back of the belt, the originals were closer to the centre, kindof behind the TD. I have made this mistake in the past.

http://www.ebay.co.u...006%26rk%3D1%26 Something in this colour would be great, the actual design is not perfect, good luck. Check out hiking boots etc.

These will work ok, for the Lancer you need a one piece sole.The dissimilar materials seem to only be on well made stitched boots. The best looking soles are not stitched, they are at the lower priced boot section lol. If you google or seach for canvas ankle boot or something similar , these are more likely to be rubber soles that are glued to the canvas and surround the base of the boot.

Now i can see why you are renouned for your helmet replica builds! Great work Keith.

I originally used a small rectangular cutting of grey vinyl for my SC chest indent and car pinstriping for the back hump[MC supplies great decals for these] Regarding the "rank" stripes, I think there were 4 thick ones and 6 thinner ones seen on screen. Who has more senior rank I don't know. They could most likely be "vent" detailing a bit like the stripes on the helmets? Which ever way you see it, if you want accuracy four thin ones are wrong and the guy with 4 thicker stripes has another small piece of striping above the middle vertical stripe on the tank. Most often we use 6 thin "rank" stripes.

Thanks Jim,and not to hijack Smitty's post any more here are some finished pics, And how they sit in a MC holster,

Phil used a clever strapping method if my memory serves me, or maybe have the cummerbund on braces and velcro/popper the pouches to the inner side of the chestplate. The original pouches were sewn onto the cummerbund, but were not intended to be usable. I have never used my pouces for anything other than the padding, they really are a waste of space for me.

I have just finished my Smitty pistol, I drilled holes in some of the parts, added a nut to one side and a bolt in the other so I can join it all up without any glue.A bit of light sanding and fillering, a coat of primer and a final coat of black matt, polished in places to highlight the different textures and the pistol is done, A nice pistol and not heavy, thanks Smitty.