Acrylikhan

I think you are thinking of "semi-gloss." I'm splitting hairs on this one, but that's because I'm constantly asked questions about finishes and sheens on multiple surfaces types. The problem is that there really is no industry standard terminology. "Satin" is usually used to describe fabric with a very glossy texture. (Wow, straightforward!) Were as in plastic and metal and paint the definition is all over the board... Metal is usually a brush finish that has a soft "glow," plastic is generally semi-gloss, and paint is dull but not flat, matte. Satin is also used to define the halfway point between Flat and High Gloss. So this is a tricky one... I am guessing you are talking about plastic, and paint. Straight out of the can/airbrush the finish is generally semi-gloss, UNLESS the can says otherwise. You can use a clear semi-gloss overcoat to get that sheen. Does that help a little?

http://forum.bikersc...topic=2047&st=0 This is my blog right here on BSN on my own modifications to the Rubies/DP helmet. I hope it can help.

Wow!

Probably a Tamiya Part for a naval ship. It is possible that could be the greeblie that goes on the detonator, painted black. It might be the right size too. I would say look at the extras portions of the disks, for un-retouched photographs, and documentaries. No sense freeze framing the films. So much has been altered from the original celluloid!!

Repainting is your best option.

Akbar was a Biker too!!!! :lol:

More importantly make sure that you have your flightsuit and cummerbund done BEFORE cutting and shaping anything. Your armor and flightsuit and cummerbund have a symbiotic relationship. Remember that! It would be a tragedy if you cut your chest armor incorrectly and have a black gap between that and your cummerbund. Poster board can help with tricky shapes, and can help visualize what your armor should look like. Plan all of your cuts first by marking them up with pencil instead of marker. Marker is harder to remove from ABS than pencil is. Measure twice cut once. Its better to cut shallow than cutting deep. You can always sand away offending extra material. Putting it back what you have cut off is extremely difficult. Unless you have used a Dremel before, stay away from it unless you have large areas to remove. An X-acto is the way to go,.. make multiple, gentle scoring cuts through the plastic. Protective gloves, as Grifin-X said, is a very good plan. Your local big box hardware store should have plenty to chose from without breaking you wallet. Be sure to add sandpaper... 220-grit ...to your arsenal! Heating ABS does require a lot of heat, so heat it slowly, until it starts to move a little bit. Too much heat too fast will cause warping and blistering. Slow heat, and gently shape then... SHOCK it with a cold rag. Make sure you wear some cloth gloves to protect your fingers, and definitely get some one to help you. Two sets of hands are always better than one! JediJennie did an excellent tutorial for her Armor. Check it out for any tips she has to offer. And of course, we're here too! Post pictures if you can and will do our best to guide your hands.

That's what we're here for! Good luck on your build!

Granted1 - An Acrylic Based paint is your best option, airbrush applied, and then wet sanded and polished out to get rid of any overspray. Sometimes paints and plastics don't get along, too. Some paints, when applied to some plastics, can cause a color change reaction. If there is release agents on the plastic, that can cause a color shift as well. Try to find a paint that is acrylic based, a good for use on plastics. Polyurethane based are very good as well. As always, make sure the area you are going to paint is clean, lint free, and dry! Use Ammonia or paint thinner to clean the area before painting. Here's a couple options: 1 - Paint the WHOLE thing. That is the only way to insure the invisibility you are seeking. Be sure to prime the part first, and then apply you coats of white. Primer will seal the surface... and yes, they do sell primer in white! Its great when you have to apply white, or a bright color, like a red or blue to an object. White tends to be slightly translucent, so you will have to put on more than two coats. If you use a gray primer, you'll know when you have enough coats on when the white paint no longer has a "blue" tint. When I painted my Rubies Helmet, I used an acrylic lacquer primer, and Krylon Fusion. I am not sure if that is available to you in the UK 2 - Can you refit the part and shorten the gap that way? 3 - Would a little weathering cover up the trouble spot? Are you applying the paint with an airbrush/spray can or by brush? Air brush is the best, and with patience and skill, you can achieve excellent results with a spray can. Brushes can pool up paint, which can "pull-up" ABS particles into the paint, and cause a discoloration of the paint, and surround plastic. Check out the thread Acrylikhan's Helmet Progress as I have cover some of the topics here, especially masking off areas that you do not want painted. If you have more questions, let me know... it may take me a day or two to answer.

Sorry about jumping the gun on future episodes!! That is very good news! It'll be nice to have a helmet that doesn't squish my nose when I close the lid down!! You have another potential customer.

Very Impressive! I wonder if it will fit over the large melon that is my head. The comparison pic is good... but I've never seen a KS up close, so I don't have a good size gauge in memory (MLC and Rubs, yes...). Can you help me with the size relation there, Cyber Scout?

I think the washer is sandwiched between the bucket and the visor, with the bolt holding everything together. The rubbery washer gives a little extra friction to defy gravity, and stay up. I would think it would help keeping the bucket closed too. Sounds like a good trick!

PM coming your way....

I used Rustoleum High Performance Enamel Color: Machine Gray, and then used a matte clear coat afterwards. Matched up very well!

Acrylikhan's Helmet Progress Everything I did to my Rubies is listed here. I went overboard, but there are still tricks you can use to go as far as you'd like on your own build. If you have questions, I am always here, so drop me a line if you need a clarification, or whatever. My friend had initially posted it from the MWG, that's why its hard to find.

Plaster vac-forming bucks? Dry-sand up to 400-grit, then switch to wet sanding with 500-grit. 400 should be enough, the 500-grit is completely optional. After you are satisfied with the shape and contour of the forms, apply a thin coat of acrylic sealer. It will add a layer of protection to the forms depending on how many pulls you wish to cast.

I'm a little late to this thread... What exactly are you doing in this picture? Maybe I can help you out if I can.

Is that body filler around the snout, or something else?

Okay, here's the skinny. For painting mine own rubies, I used KRYLON FUSION Gloss white. The kicker to getting good paint adhesion to the vinyl is the prep work before you paint. Follow the direction on the can- use either paint thinner or a good strong ammonia cleaner to remove any dirt dust and oil and grease from the surface. It wouldn't be a bad thing to get some vinyl gloves while you handle the bucket. The better news is that Fusion will polish to a bright finish if you get areas of overspray or micro fisheye. You should wait the full seven days for the paint to fully cure, but the results can be quite nice! BEFORE: AFTER:

Most use the 3M Speedglass bolts for accuracy. In all honesty, you can get away with just about any bolt, provided that the "head" is flat and that any slot on the bolt head is completely covered. I custom made mine using button covers from WalMart painted gray and then glued to the bolt head. Works out quite nicely.

There are some very good clear photographs of a screen used bucket in the Gallery. Check it out! I used them to paint my Rubies Mod.

TEAM WENDY ZAP Try this site: Ballistic Helmet Replacement Pad Kit.