Chopper Posted January 18 Posted January 18 I'd go with the longer forehead stripes. The Trooperbay logo decal is fine for approval. 1
Plugger Posted January 20 Author Posted January 20 Hello troopers! Here's an update of my week so far. I made a new piece for the snout base. Mine got cut in resin and feel more like molded-in rather than a piece on top. As you can see, it took me a couple of attempts go get it perfectly fit... 😅 The snout line on my model was a bit too low, so the new piece also fixes this issue. I made a new set of rear vent stickers. The angle of my helmet's vent is slightly different that the stickers I reveived, so I custom made those for a perfect fit. More work has been done on the gun. This one is my second attempt and think I'm happy with the result. I paint it mate compare to semi-gloss witch feels more realistic imo. I also made an aluminium guard piece, added magnet in the Motorola transistor piece and used real screws everywhere. The in hand feeling is better due to the added weight. Gun V1 on top and V2 bottom. Final V2 gun with the weathering. Some more painted parts. After I saw the mate finish of the gun, I repainted those pieces. I'm now working on the last 3 pieces: Front and back armour chest and the belt. Then, it's the white paint... ... then the gloss, then the straps, then.... 😁 As always, any tips, comments or advices are more than welcome.
Aradun Posted January 20 Posted January 20 Holdout pistol v2 is a massive upgrade!I agree with Harbinger 100%. V2 looks amazing. Nicely weathered. Excellent work! 1
Plugger Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 I think I'm going to need another pair of boots. I was searching for info about the rear upper tab and found a couple of big mistake I made. Dog-bones are too long I used 3/4 Velcro instead of 1'' And I think the vinyl faux leather grain is to present. Need more stretching on the toe section Do you think I could still pass basic approval with those? Anything else you could think of before I start with a fresh pair (or tips for ungluing.. 😅) Practice makes perfect.
Chopper Posted January 24 Posted January 24 The item that's most clearly specified in the CRL is the velcro. For Level 1: The boots are secured up the back using 25mm (1 inch) white hook and loop fastener. I do think the grain on the vinyl you used is a little too much. Sometimes there's a little grain, which is okay, but the material in the photos looks "pebbled". Check with your GML.
Plugger Posted January 24 Author Posted January 24 If I manage to remove the crocodile vinyl 😊, I might try to rebuil them. If not, I'll probably go for the Crowprops Biker Long Boots
Plugger Posted January 26 Author Posted January 26 So, after trying to remove the vinyl of my boots... I just ordered a new pair from Crowprops. Measurements form, and photos send. The lady at CP told me that they were waiting for my measurements to start production right away! Let's hope it goes fast (Like a kid with a new toy)😊 Tonight I'm planning on reinforcing certain parts of the chest armour with a light fiberglass coat. I'm planing to do the same with the belt. 2
Plugger Posted January 27 Author Posted January 27 In the past few days: Prep the chest armour and belt, ready for primmer (resin coat and sanding), The fiberglass reinforcement is also done on the interior. I'm still waiting for it to cure properly before trimming and sanding. While waiting, I was able to work on the greeblies. I repaint the tank top detail, I had a crack in the center section that was not so pleasant to the eye. Also finished the 3M bolt, tank button and the nose section. Cheers! 1
Retrofire Posted January 27 Posted January 27 Always smart to be patient and let everything cure before moving on to the next step. Your greeblies are looking spot on so fantastic work there! Keep up the great work and we're looking forward to seeing you cross the finish line. 1
LookBehindYou Posted January 29 Posted January 29 Awesome! Things are looking fantastic! I’m hard at work on my build too! 1
AZMandoPaz Posted January 30 Posted January 30 On 1/3/2024 at 7:00 PM, Plugger said: So here it begins. I started in early November and this is my progress so far. Most of my soft parts are mostly done in version 1.0... I will redo the flak vest, because the fabric I used for the back and front pieces is way too hard, this thing could probably block real life laser blast. This causes the vest to be very uncomfortable. The underarm area is also a bit too tight. The new fabric is on the way. For the armor, everything is printed and at different post-processing stages. Glove: Endor Finders Dickie: Amazon Armour Kit: MrPoopie models (3D Printed) Gun: Thingverse (3D Printed) Helmet: Galactic Armoury (3D Printed) with mouth piece and forehead mods. Flight Suit: Red Kap Other Soft Parts: Home made 3D Printing Process: Rough sanding: 120 sanding Resin/baby powder coating: 3 coats. The secret sauce! This makes sanding easier and provides a more rounded shape to 3D prints' natural hard edges. Getting the final piece closer to the thermo formed appearance. Sanding: 120 grits, then a light 220 Primer: 3 coats Wet sanding: 800 grits Paint: 3 coats (light / med / wet coat) Gloss: 2 coats (med and wet coat) Done Those parts are ready for wet sanding: Let me know if you have questions or if you want to know more. Comments are more than welcome, of course! I am new to the group (Just this past week) and am going through all of the information while my helmet is printing. I used the galactic armory files as well. I am really interested in the smoothing technique you mentioned above with the resin and baby powder. Your prints are some of the smoothest have seen and i have printed full builds in the past. I am always looking to learn new techniques. I just usually coat my prints with resin and cure in the sun. How do you incorporate baby powder in the process? BTW - the rest of your build is looking great. I am hoping to have mine done by the end of May, so i am trying to get ahead of the learning curve here Thanks
Plugger Posted January 30 Author Posted January 30 Hey AZMandoPaz, Lockster asked me the same question a few weeks ago so I'll put it here if it can help someone else. Here's my lineup: 3D Printing Post Process: Rough sanding: 120 grit sanding Filling with Liquitex Molding Paste if needed (Bondo is bad for our healt and not good for big repair, it will crack, keep it for the small imperfection after the primer coat) Resin/baby powder coating: 3 coats. About 3/1 ratio mixed in a small plastic cup with a coffee stick. I'm using cheap foam brush to apply and cure with a uv lamp in between coat. The secret sauce! This makes sanding easier and provides a more rounded shape to 3D prints' natural hard edges. Getting the final piece closer to the thermo formed appearance. Sanding: 120 grits, then a light 220 (recoat with resine if needed) Primer: 3 coats Resin Touch Up or Bondo spot putty for small imperfection, sanding and re-prime Wet sanding: 800 grits Paint: 3 coats (light / med / wet coat) Gloss: 2 coats (med and wet coat) Done Ref Pic: The Tools (resprator, goggles and gloves are missing from the picture...): First Rough Sanding Resin Coating: Resin Touch up, to help with deeper creases. Primed, ready for wet sanding Let me know if it's not clear, I'll be happy to help 2
MrMike Posted February 5 Posted February 5 On 1/7/2024 at 6:09 PM, Plugger said: Yes, I manage to sew the patch without opening the legs. Since the suit ajdustements were already made (leg taper, etc), I was not so eager to redo all of this, but it works. Thank's M.J. My patch was already hand sewed to the suit, I guess it helps a lot. The first hand stitch still needs to be removed. I have also redone the vest version 3.0. Way more comfy and perfect fit for me. And a bit of work on the helmet as well. Almost ready to paint! After almost a month in Xmas vacation, I was able to pull out a lot of work for this project. Now back to our regular schedule....😐 Hi Dom, I also have a Galactic Armory scout helmet I'll soon be working on. Mines came with molded vents but I noticed you were able to remove them in this picture. Any suggestions on the proper way to remove them? Thanks!
Plugger Posted February 5 Author Posted February 5 Hey MrMike! In the GA folder I received there is the Sticker Version model file: Scout Trooper - Back V3 - Sticker Version - Ears Cut Out Here you go! Ho and let me know if you need the rear vent stickers I made. I'll send you the JPG. Because the Trooperbay version is just a tad too big. 1
Chopper Posted February 5 Posted February 5 5 minutes ago, MrMike said: Hi Dom, I also have a Galactic Armory scout helmet I'll soon be working on. Mines came with molded vents but I noticed you were able to remove them in this picture. Any suggestions on the proper way to remove them? Thanks! As a FYI, please note this post which outlines the issues with the GA files: 1 1
MrMike Posted February 5 Posted February 5 6 minutes ago, Plugger said: Hey MrMike! In the GA folder I received there is the Sticker Version model file: Scout Trooper - Back V3 - Sticker Version - Ears Cut Out Here you go! 5 minutes ago, Chopper said: As a FYI, please note this post which outlines the issues with the GA files: Thank you guys for the information! 1
Plugger Posted February 5 Author Posted February 5 Hey guys, it's time for a little update. Last Monday, the week started with me losing my job. After 16 years at Eidos, I got fired along with 96 other great co-workers. It's a hard time for video games. But now, I've got time! I need to keep my hands and head busy. So, the painting is almost done. Only the belt remains, and some touch-ups on the black nose section. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, smooth and shiny! Next stop, elastics, webbing, rivets and Velcro. Let me know!
LookBehindYou Posted February 5 Posted February 5 6 hours ago, Plugger said: Hey guys, it's time for a little update. Last Monday, the week started with me losing my job. After 16 years at Eidos, I got fired along with 96 other great co-workers. It's a hard time for video games. But now, I've got time! I need to keep my hands and head busy. So, the painting is almost done. Only the belt remains, and some touch-ups on the black nose section. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, smooth and shiny! Next stop, elastics, webbing, rivets and Velcro. Let me know! Sorry to hear about your job. That’s a big time bummer and hope you find something even better! Your armor and helmet look incredible from my novice eyes!!! 2
LookBehindYou Posted February 7 Posted February 7 We’re definitely running side by side in this one! Yours is looking superb! I’ve got to start on the boots this week and maybe the belt. After that I’m waiting on my undersuit. I had one made though I do kind regret that I won’t have the satisfaction of making that myself.
Plugger Posted February 7 Author Posted February 7 12 minutes ago, LookBehindYou said: We’re definitely running side by side in this one! Yours is looking superb! I’ve got to start on the boots this week and maybe the belt. After that I’m waiting on my undersuit. I had one made though I do kind regret that I won’t have the satisfaction of making that myself. I know the feeling, Chris. I made my first pair of boots myself and made some big mistakes, like using the wrong leather pattern and 3/4 inch Velcro instead of 1 inch, etc... So I decided to order a pair from Crowprops. But I was proud of those first boots! Heheheh Also, great work on your build! I'm following it with great interest.
Plugger Posted February 7 Author Posted February 7 Tip of the day: Do not use steel rivets on 3D printed parts. Not only are they harder to remove, but they are also too strong and will break the parts. I had one mixed up with my aluminum ones... I'm not taking any chances now; I make sure to test them with a magnet before popping them off. A knee armor died in the field, so we received this information.😅 1
LookBehindYou Posted February 7 Posted February 7 8 hours ago, Plugger said: Tip of the day: Do not use steel rivets on 3D printed parts. Not only are they harder to remove, but they are also too strong and will break the parts. I had one mixed up with my aluminum ones... I'm not taking any chances now; I make sure to test them with a magnet before popping them off. A knee armor died in the field, so we received this information.😅 Good to know Dom! I haven’t riveted anything yet but might be today or tomorrow. I’m gonna be cringing on every one until they’re done. Even with aluminum lol.
Chopper Posted February 7 Posted February 7 In general, please don't use steel rivets on any armor builds, be it pulled abs or printed. As you've discovered, they are a beast to remove.
Plugger Posted February 8 Author Posted February 8 Today I finished the helmet. Touched up the nose black paint, glued the aerator piece, installed the visor, applied black tape to the inner ears and added the tactical liner. I still need to make some adjustments to the liner to achive the perfect fit, but it's getting close. I also completed most of the elastics work on the armour. Only the belt and weebing left to do. Then, suit up and take pictures!!! 3
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