Plugger Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 So here it begins. I started in early November and this is my progress so far. Most of my soft parts are mostly done in version 1.0... I will redo the flak vest, because the fabric I used for the back and front pieces is way too hard, this thing could probably block real life laser blast. This causes the vest to be very uncomfortable. The underarm area is also a bit too tight. The new fabric is on the way. For the armor, everything is printed and at different post-processing stages. Glove: Endor Finders Dickie: Amazon Armour Kit: MrPoopie models (3D Printed) Gun: Thingverse (3D Printed) Helmet: Galactic Armoury (3D Printed) with mouth piece and forehead mods. Flight Suit: Red Kap Other Soft Parts: Home made 3D Printing Process: Rough sanding: 120 sanding Resin/baby powder coating: 3 coats. The secret sauce! This makes sanding easier and provides a more rounded shape to 3D prints' natural hard edges. Getting the final piece closer to the thermo formed appearance. Sanding: 120 grits, then a light 220 Primer: 3 coats Wet sanding: 800 grits Paint: 3 coats (light / med / wet coat) Gloss: 2 coats (med and wet coat) Done Those parts are ready for wet sanding: Let me know if you have questions or if you want to know more. Comments are more than welcome, of course! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 You’re off to a great start Dom! I see you pulled your EC-17 STL files from Thingiverse. Not sure what files you grabbed, but make sure that the tip of the barrel is solid not bored and the same for the front of the scope. A lot of files out there try to make the blaster look real with bored barrel tip and hollowed out scope, but that’s not true to the original.While the blaster is optional and not required for basic approval, if Level2 Lancer status is something you might be interested in down the line, then a blaster with those “added” features won’t past muster for Level 2. Just something to keep in mind. If you need another blaster, Mr. Poopie has one. It’s no longer available on Thingiverse, but if you PM him he’ll help you out. It also looks like your using the forum’s feature to upload your pics. Just be aware that there’s a max for each user which is around 1 MB. That’s gonna get eaten up fast. See the following threads for inserting pics in your posts. There’s also the free Tapatalk app that allows you to insert images directly into your posts from your phone. http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/22990-sharing-photos-with-dropbox/#comment-215704http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/23053-faq-how-do-i-post-images/Higher res is better for the armory team to see details if needed. The forum’s image hosting is only capable of very low res. Keep up the great work! Looking good! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 Thank's Aradun for this great information. Fun fact: I just received MrPoopie files for the blaster, and I was going to ask witch canon I should use the solid one or the hollowed one. You guys are fast! There is also a long and a short version of the cannon, I was going to print the short one? I was confused cause there seems to have both versions in the the scoutpedia: the auction version and the Hero one. I'll stick with your advice for lancer level 2. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 Aradun is right on with his advice. If you keep to the lvl2 text in the CRL you won't go wrong. Keep those great questions coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 3 hours ago, Aradun said: It also looks like your using the forum’s feature to upload your pics. Just be aware that there’s a max for each user which is around 1 MB. That’s gonna get eaten up fast. See the following threads for inserting pics in your posts. There’s also the free Tapatalk app that allows you to insert images directly into your posts from your phone. I think I managed to remove the included pictures files and replace them with high-resolution links. Let me know if it's working for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 The links aren’t working currently. If you’re using Google Photos, make sure your sharing/permissions are properly set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 35 minutes ago, Aradun said: The links aren’t working currently. If you’re using Google Photos, make sure your sharing/permissions are properly set. Should be good now? Sorry about this, last try before I move everithing to dropbox....😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Perfect! Looks like you’re good to go. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Here are some pictures of some soft parts. As I mentioned in the introduction, I'm going to redo the vest from scratch. The fabric is too strong and the armpit is a bit tight. Ok, back to sanding... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrofire Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 Looks like you're making great progress Dom. Remember that if you're using off-white pouches on your cummerbund that your side and drop box straps will need to be off-white as well. Keep up the great work and I'm looking forward to continue to see your progress. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 5 Author Share Posted January 5 Yes, and thank you for the reminder. I already have the 1-1/2'' natural white strapping and I'm waiting for the 2''. I thought the belt strapping also needed to match? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted January 5 Share Posted January 5 If you're talking about the 2" strapping, that should be pure white in all instances of the ROTJ scout. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 Is there supposed to be a visible seam at the end of the flack vest sleeves? And how did you sew the leather patch onto the flight suit? I did it by hand and it's not a good end result. Can it be done with a sewing machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.J Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 Hi ya Dom, With my flack vests I didn't have a seam, its a little more work though I found it neater, it doesn't mention this on the CRL so its more to what you prefer. Sewing the leather to the flight suit, yes you can use a sewing machine, it is a little tricky to manoeuvre the machine around. Remember the black elastic to pop that in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 6 Author Share Posted January 6 Thank you for the information, you guys are so helpful. It's really appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 A visible seam in the flak vest is okay, but it's also okay if you don't have one. When sewing leather, make sure you're using a leather needle for your machine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 6 Share Posted January 6 For the leather riding patches, the best way to sew them is by machine and to do that you need to seem rip the outer leg. Cut your patches. You’ll have 4 pieces (two front and two back). I didn’t document this part in my build thread, but I sewed the back patches together where they join in the middle and then pinned the rear patches to the suit and ran it through the machine. For the front I sewed each front patch to the rear where the seam forms between the legs then pinned the patch to the front and ran it through the machine. My front patches are not connected to each other where they meet above the crotch. That was done so that I can access the lower zipper of the suit and it’s covered by the cod piece anyway, so it’s not visible. Now, don’t do all that like I did and forget to insert your 2” elastic bands around the leg, other wise you’re seam ripping again to slide the straps in.Once finished turn the suit inside out and then when sewing up the outer leg again, be sure to give it a nice taper from the foot opening up to right around the waist. I used a yard stick, came in an 1” or so at the foot and ran a diagonal line to the waist. Just make sure you are using a needle in your machine designed for either denim or leather. The latter is better, but the former will do.For your mud flap - if your suit is like mine and doesn’t have an elastic waist in the back, you can sew the flap right on the top of waist line. If it is elastic, then add length to your flap and sew it about an 1” - 1.5” above the elastic portion. The added length above the waist won’t be visible with the belt and bund. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 8 Author Share Posted January 8 Yes, I manage to sew the patch without opening the legs. Since the suit ajdustements were already made (leg taper, etc), I was not so eager to redo all of this, but it works. Thank's M.J. My patch was already hand sewed to the suit, I guess it helps a lot. The first hand stitch still needs to be removed. I have also redone the vest version 3.0. Way more comfy and perfect fit for me. And a bit of work on the helmet as well. Almost ready to paint! After almost a month in Xmas vacation, I was able to pull out a lot of work for this project. Now back to our regular schedule....😐 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Hey Dom, just a FYI, but the Galactic Armory 3D model does have a few areas that you should address for clearance -- You might want to do some sanding to try and round out that hard edge at the upper corners of the visor shroud. The screen helmets had a much softer edge in that area. The indent above the snout and just below the eyeslot should be flat/flush and it should be covered by a decal once finished. I'm guessing the indent on the bottom half of snout is for the aerator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 9 Author Share Posted January 9 Hey Chopper! Thank's for the info. Both indents will be fixed. I was waiting for comments to be sure of the above the nose section. And the bottom one misses a piece under the aerator. For the top curve of the visor, it's more complicated. I'll do my best to smooth it out, but there isn't much plastic to remove. And for the stickers, there were shipped today by Trooperbay. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aradun Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Nice work on those patches and vest Dom! Keep up the great work! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 First, big thank you for your support guys, really appreciate! This week I worked on the helmet, sanding, patching, re-sanding and so on. I decided to print a new set of 3m bolt head that will be glued on top of the original ones, to make them look like different parts. I think it would be better at the end, rather that those molded in fake caps. I just over resin coat them, and all the details were gone in the process. I 3d modeled the new ones according to spec (22mm). Good call on the corner sanding Chopper! It made the difference. I filled the nose section, sand down as much of the original screw caps as possible, and I tried to remodel the surrounding area to get the small depression around the bolts. I also made the missing piece for the lower nose section. Primmer coat done, ready for wet sanding. Work has been done on the new 3d printed gun. BIG THANK's to MrPoopie! Without your superb 3d models, all this would not have been possible. (I'm not just talking about the gun here but also the entire armour set) I should receive my helmet stickers set and balaclava from UA next week. One step at a time... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Today I received my UA Tactical balaclava and my helmet sticker set from Trooperbay. For the stickers, there is 2 set of 3 stripes for the forehead a short and a long one? What is your opignon on this? Short on long. Also, the triangle on the side hook logo is not touching the lower line, does this matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chopper Posted January 18 Share Posted January 18 FYI, the images in your latest post aren't displaying. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plugger Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Oops, sorry about that. Should be good now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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