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MagKekses WIP ROTJ Biker Scout


MagKekse

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Hy guy´s

This is my first WIP thread and my first time that I dare to the topic of cosplay.
I have no experience in the matter of armor construction but I get here certainly very good tips and then try to implement them.
My plan currently looks like this:

  • Helmet: File from Etsy and 3D printed from me
  • Armor: Files from MrPoopie and 3D printed from me
  • Gloves: ???
  • Boots: ???
  • Soft parts: ???
  • Blaster: Maybe a file from Thingiverse for the 3D printer

I am in the process of printing the hard parts. The two parts for the knees are 80% printed.
After I finish them, I want to move on to the finishing. That means filling and sanding.
I am currently a bit clueless which method I should use now.
Filler and sanding, XTC - 3D and sanding or resin and sanding.

I'm going to get a filler and sandpaper with K400, K600, K800 and K1200 grit on Monday and try this method. If it doesn't work, I'll try a different method on the second knee.

I haven't thought about where to get the soft parts and boots yet. I can not operate a sewing machine. But that still has time. Important for me now is that I learn how I create the hard parts and bring to perfection.

Will take pictures of my knees tomorrow and show you here.

Glad to become a part of the Pathfinder.
Greetings from Austria
Thomas

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Hi Thomas, welcome to the pathfinders. Curious, what Etsy helmet file are you using?

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Thomas, welcome to the Pathfinders.  I'm just chiming in regarding your question on filling and sanding methods.  Filler and sanding is always tried and true, but I find it to be a lengthy and at times a tedious process.  Who likes sanding?  My preference is to use XTC-3D, which greatly reduces the amount of sanding needed IMO and experience.  You just need to be careful in applying the XTC-3D.  You don't want to go too heavy because it will pool along the edges of your print, which will require some heavy sanding to remove.  Apply it in light coats making sure to spread it around with your chip brush or foam applicator.  I've also learned that applying it with brush strokes that run parallel to the print lines reduces the air bubbles that sometimes occur when brushing against the print lines.   Once it drys, a little light sanding is sometimes all that is needed to get things nice and smooth.  For finer greeblies like those on the bicep armor, you can just use a couple of coats of primer filler spray paint.  XCT-3D can mute the finer details in greeblies. 

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Check out @BikerScout007 post on another 3d printed set regarding smoothing with a cool video!

On 1/21/2022 at 10:16 AM, BikerScout007 said:

There's a couple of things you can do to smooth out your parts.

The first is good old sanding.  It's painful and takes awhile, but it will smooth out your parts if you do it long enough.   You can use a filler primer first to fill in some of the bigger gaps, then sand it.  Use the primer again, repeat until smooth.   Just be careful with the filler primer you don't accidentally fill in any details on your armor

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-11-oz-Gray-Filler-Primer-Spray-249279/202097276?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D24-G-D24-024_003_SPRAY_PAINT-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_SprayPaint_LIA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D24-G-D24-024_003_SPRAY_PAINT-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-FY21_SprayPaint_LIA-71700000075826946-58700006496586419-92700058691145268&gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK4wW5RUGQK3kabpz2FRVc4pMIziWn0UD-X42732fWlta9K4aWBM16bBoCcaYQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Another things you can try is XTC-3D.  It's basically a coating you brush onto your print in order to get rid of lines.  It's also sandable to do the finishing touches.  I used this to smooth out my E-22

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/xtc-3d-high-performance-3d-print-coating-6-oz?rcode=PPCADS&gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK407Pj1qVnrcAjq5X-9FpO4bfP9WR0Taae59Dr8xXKvtfqRu_QH3riBoCVmQQAvD_BwE

Finally, a newer method gaining popularity is Resin smoothing.  This video by our very own @Pandatrooper explains the procedure:

 

Hope this helps!

 

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That piece looks a little different than the file I used for mine (MrPoopie).  Mine 'at rest' are wide also, but so are the ones I have from SC.  With the elastic it should bend in a bit and  conform with your arm.  If your piece isn't flexible it could be an issue.

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It does look a little wide, but I'd try fitting it again with a sweatshirt or set of coveralls on before you start reprinting.

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4 hours ago, kayelbe said:

That piece looks a little different than the file I used for mine (MrPoopie).  Mine 'at rest' are wide also, but so are the ones I have from SC.  With the elastic it should bend in a bit and  conform with your arm.  If your piece isn't flexible it could be an issue.

The printed part is that of MrPoopie. There is only a support on it from the print. I have not removed it yet. It can be bent a little, but the elastic must be extremely strong or short so that it pulls the part together a little. But maybe it will work out. Will try it before sanding, however.

 

3 hours ago, Chopper said:

It does look a little wide, but I'd try fitting it again with a sweatshirt or set of coveralls on before you start reprinting.

See reply to kayeleb.
Will test it with a sweater, unfortunately I do not have a flight suit yet.

 

Before I print the second forearm part now, I'd rather print the other parts.

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Are those the latest files from @MrPoopie?  Those biceps look different and I think the forearms do as well.  Here's mine that I'm working on at the moment:

MSzfjDQ.jpg

 

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I was just pointing it out is all.  I looked at the scoutopedia  and your first one (CTPG?) is closer to the screen used (although the top looks too long to me).  

Here's a comparison between the MrPoopie and an older generation SC:

EeFdKic.jpg

I circled the detail that originally caught my eye.  It has been a while since I saw my old SC that I didn't realize the difference until I saw your first post.

I don't know about you, but I was planning to use it to get back in the Lancer ranks.  I browsed a bunch of Lancer threads and it seems that biceps have been submitted with the "closed" tee occasionally.  Maybe the Lancer Approval guys can chime in (if you're interested)?

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Aside from probably RS and Strider's armor, no kit is going to be 100% accurate. Nor do we ask for 100% accuracy with Lancer reviews -- that would severely limit the armor types that folks could use.

Properly built, fitted, and finished, both SC and Mr. Poopie's armor are acceptable for Level 2. Off the top of my head, I cannot recall a Level 2 app using Mr. Poopie's files, but the designs are good enough to do so.

Our list of gear that does not meet ROTJ Scout Level 2 standards is here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

 

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1 hour ago, Chopper said:

Aside from probably RS and Strider's armor, no kit is going to be 100% accurate. Nor do we ask for 100% accuracy with Lancer reviews -- that would severely limit the armor types that folks could use.

Properly built, fitted, and finished, both SC and Mr. Poopie's armor are acceptable for Level 2. Off the top of my head, I cannot recall a Level 2 app using Mr. Poopie's files, but the designs are good enough to do so.

Our list of gear that does not meet ROTJ Scout Level 2 standards is here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/21881-rotj-scout-armor-kit-accuracy-and-level-2-lancer-applications/

 

I second Choppers clarification on the kits as well and encourage prospective Lancers to check out that list.

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@kayelbe
I am currently printing the biceps part of @MrPoopie. When this is finished I can compare it.
Both parts were made to fit my body using the Armorsmith Designer. And both parts were customized by @MrPoopie.
Will upload a comparison photo here once the print is done.

 

@Chopper
Thanks for the list.


My goal is to get the level 1 standard of CRL so I can be accepted to the 501st.
Level 2 would be a next step but I am personally still far away from that.

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Have now finished the part.
Attached 3 photos for comparison.
Please disregard the background and the stone on the picture. 

t876giy2.jpg

vkzzyzfp.jpg

8vs9giq8.jpg

 

The black piece is from @MrPoopie and the gray piece is from Etsy.

I personally like the part from MrPoopie better.

But what do the pros here say?

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I think my opinion might be biased.

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Comparing the two, I would go with the the Mr. Poopie files as well.

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21 hours ago, Chopper said:

Comparing the two, I would go with the the Mr. Poopie files as well.

I second that. If you check both those pieces against the CRL photo the MP version is a clear winner.

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