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ROTJ Biker Scout WIP (first build)


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This journey will likely be a year or more in the making due to time constraints with work and family. I don't plan to buy anything premade. As I Prefer to get kits and have a hands on in making my Scout.

I have begun the process by spending money like all Star Wars fans do best.

Will post pics and prices along the way.

Going to start on the soft parts. Awaiting the arrival of my soft parts to construct my flight suit. 

 

Coveralls - Dickies (47.99)- Will remove back pockets, adjust the neck, and add the inner thigh patches.

https://www.dickies.com/coveralls-overalls/deluxe-blended-long-sleeve-coveralls/48799.html?dwvar_48799_color=BK#start=1

Leather Patches (24.99) - shipping was 12 as no local leather store. 

https://tandyleather.com/products/pigskin-suede-split-chrome-free?_pos=3&_sid=b12b2db85&_ss=r

Leg straps (5.99)

https://www.joann.com/knit-elastic/11384393.html

Other assorted items, misc. - velcro and sewing thread, Moms old sewing machine. 

 

All should be in early next week and will begin the process of modifying my flight suite. 

Will post pictures along the way as I build. 

 

 

 

Next month will order gloves and balaclava

Gloves (60.00)

https://wampawear.com/product/biker-scout-gloves/

Unless I can find a pair of original and dye them.

Balaclava (10.99)

https://www.amazon.com/Achiou-Balaclava-Protection-Tactical-Motorcycle/dp/B07PFGMG5F/ref=sr_1_5?crid=338YF671FTND6&dchild=1&keywords=balaclava&qid=1623421464&sprefix=balacl%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-5

Then on to boots. 

Has anyone made boots with a base of shrimper boots?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/George-Men-s-Waterproof-Shrimper-Boot/693480261?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=1362&&adid=22222222227250269953&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=294590031116&wl4=pla-517952890729&wl5=9011661&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=693480261&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5PSr6eSP8QIVCmxvBB1vpQhnEAQYBCABEgKYTPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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Hi Chris, looks like you're on to a good start. The only additional advice I can offer right now is to steer clear of using the shrimper boots as a base. There are some folks who did use them, or something similar, for their scout boots in the mid-2000s or so, but times and standards have changed significantly since then.

If you'd like to build your own boots, I'd stick with getting a gum soled work boot and building it up, as per Cheesewhoopy's tutorial here: http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/19708-biker-scout-boots-tutorial/

Gio at Crowprops also makes an underboot that uses his version of the original sierra sole. Or if you want to buy a pre-made boot, then there's Imperial Boots.

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I will bypass the shrimper boots.

Price of Imperial Boots is a little much. I will likely try the build as recommended as I already own a pair of leather work boots similar to those mentioned in the thread. 

Thanks

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Got my flight suit in!!

Time to start the build. Next post will be after the the suede patches and straps have been added, and extra hardware removed.

Will also post pics of the work on each section. 

Excited to begin this journey and to finally join the Galactic Empire.

 

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Removed the rear pockets and Dickies logo patches.

Mandarin color shaped.

Started the riding patches with sizing similar to one on another thread. Looks good. But when worn I believe it's a little low.

Bottom curve is at level of mid patella.

Pants will have to be hemmed up.

Should the patches be shorter? Or just make patches come up higher onto bottom zipper/ buttocks?

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I shortened the ends up 2" and added about 3" to the top and squared them off.

I feel it's alot better size and shape.

 

However I have a conundrum.  The suit fits well but the crotch is a little low. Could size it up but would make putting on impossible.

I took the waistband and rolled it. This in turn raised the crotch and legs about 1-2 inches. Pants fit much better and patches look better places.

How do I shorten up the torso?

Could I use snaps and just roll up while wearing? Cummerbund will cover all of that area. I'm afraid if I permanently shorten I won't be able to get it on.

 

 

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I think the corrections you've made to the riding patches sound good. If you've got a photo, it'd be easier to verify, but just eyeballing what you had before, along with your stated changes, I think you're in the right ballpark.

There are plenty of folks who have tailored the suit to bring the waist up, but I've never heard about anyone making an adjustable roll with snaps before. That said, as long as it' s all covered by the bund, then it should be fine. Just make sure that it doesn't end up giving you an odd looking lump around the waist that shows up from beneath the bund.

 

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8 minutes ago, Chopper said:

I think the corrections you've made to the riding patches sound good. If you've got a photo, it'd be easier to verify, but just eyeballing what you had before, along with your changes, I think you're in the right ballpark.

There are plenty of folks who have tailored the suit to bring the waist up, but I've never heard about anyone making an adjustable roll with snaps before. That said, as long as it' s all covered by the bund, then it should be fine. Just make sure that it doesn't end up giving you an odd looking lump around the waist that shows up from beneath the bund.

 

How who you bring the waist up without messing up the zipper?

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You take the zipper off, resew the coveralls, and then either sew the existing zipper back on, or, if it's too long, then you get a shorter zipper.

And looking back at your initial suit up photos, are you sure the crotch is too low, especially before you do any surgery to the coveralls? It looks ok in this photo?

20210612_132317.jpg

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7 minutes ago, Chopper said:

You take the zipper off, resew the coveralls, and then either sew the existing zipper back on, or, if it's too long, then you get a shorter zipper.

And looking back at your initial suit up photos, are you sure the crotch is too low, especially before you do any surgery to the coveralls? It looks ok in this photo?

20210612_132317.jpg

So they fit great and would be hard to put on if i adjusted.

The problem is with patches I feel the crotch still sits low. When I shortened the torso by rolling it the crotch came up and patches looked right.

 

I guess I could just adjust patches to just sit higher. And look the same as when I roll?

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Again, before you do any surgery, the question is how it all looks from behind the codpiece? The cod sits on front, so it covers quite a bit and you might not need to adjust anything.

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Yea gonna get them close.

Then make the other soft pieces.

The cod piece might pull it up too

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Here is the final sizing/ shape I came up with after several adjustments.

Bottom is about 1/2 in above knee cap.

Is there anything particular about shape for Level 2 certification?

 

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Hey Chris, I think the front side looks good. The only item you want to be aware of, in terms of shape, is to make sure that the squared ends on the upper left and right don't show from under your cod. Just eyeballing, but I think it's ok.

The patch on the back looks a bit too large, I think, as the front and back shouldn't be equal in size/shape. I've made a quick mark in green about where the back side patch should be.

patch.jpg

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I was actually staring👽 at the scoutopedia last night for about an hour. Lol.

I think I had the rear pad WAY too large. Will definitely adjust the pad similar to what you have drawn here. 

Also after seeing the pics. I think I should adjust the front to be more tear drop in shape. Front above knee in some pictures goes almost to mid thigh. 

Will adjust the top to be closer to midline by about 1" and not a straight line up the sides

Thanks for the help Chopper. 

I think Ill be good on the patches now. Will definitely need more help going forward.

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So after Chopper's recommendations and scouring the scoutopedia I came up with this as a final final final version. Lol.

Suede came in today! Hopefully will have patches, and Mandarin collar sewn on and pants hemmed up this week.

Are these socks 501st approved? Need some scout one!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here I have the "final" flight suit.

It took longer than expected. Learning to sew and all, took its toll. In the end:

The Mandarin collar was made using a back pocket that was removed. I used the fold method and didn't cut. It made sewing the corners very difficult as it was quite thick.

I took the 4 riding patches out of pig suede and sewed into one solid piece. Attached the 2" elastic straps and then sewed down into place.Had to make some adjustment around zipper area due to the sew pulling the sued in a bit causing some slack.

I decided to do this without ripping the leg seam which took alot of work maneuvering the sewing maching.

Then I took in the legs. Tapering them by 2 1/2" at bottom and met the bottom of pocket seam. For a nice slimmer fit. Had I know I was gonna taper would have ripped the outer seam first to make sewing patches easier.

 

 

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What you've done is no small feat. Great work. And the skills you're learning will definitely pay off down the line.

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Started the flack vest using a tutorial found on the soft parts section. 

Black tshirt measured and cut. I took off 8" at the bottom and rounded the neck larger.

The final vest will be made out of black duck cloth and quilt batting. Will also leave the sleeves and botto. Long to cut off at a later date as I don't have my armor pieces.

 

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Made good progress on the flak vest today.

Ripped the shirt seems up and made patterns. Then cut out of duck cloth ($10 for 1 yd. Just enough) sewed the vest and added 2" velcro to the back.

Next onto the sleeves and batting.

 

Flak Vest = easier than adding riding patches!

 

Can the vest be sewn shut in the back to avoid the velcro use every time I troop?

 

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For Level 1 (Basic Clearance) in the CRL, it says: "Secured at the back using 50mm (2") black hook and loop fastener."

If you don't want to bother with opening and closing the velcro when gearing up, it'd be much easier to just leave the velcro in place and then slide it on, if that's what you're going for?

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Before you sew the Velcro closed.  Pin it securely and do a test fit.  You may find slipping it over your head to be more challenging that it seems.  I cannot slip mine over my head lest I run the risk of tearing it.  You might need to widen the vest so that it has some play which will make it easier to slide on and off.  My recommendation would be to leave it unsewn, and just leave it Velcroed so you can slip it over your head.  This way if there’s an issue you can just undo the Velcro any time as needed.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Spent over a week battling with my vest. Several assumptions led me wrong. But finally worked out the kinks.

Flak vest is complete minus adjusting sleeve length to match the shoulder bells.

Also finished the codpiece.

 

Next will make boxes, bund, and boots! Parts/material already ordered. Should be able to finish my soft parts by end of summer.

 

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