Jump to content

Cheese’s ROTJ Scout WIP


Cheese

Recommended Posts

I’m just getting started on this build which will be my first.  I have to say that without this forum and all of the great posts with so much helpful information, it would be pretty hard to take on this project.  So thanks to all who have posted their builds and all of the help provided.  

Shout out and many thanks to @MrPoopie, who I had contacted on Thingiverse (before I joined here) and graciously sent me a link to his armor print files.  Awesome stuff.  Going to try to print the chest and back each in one piece.  I’m using PETG for the armor.  I’ll probably reprint the helmet I made with Jesus’ model instead of the one I used.  The one I made has been posted here, but I haven’t been able to find out if anyone ever got basic approval with it. 
 

Here is the helmet.  Printed in multiple pieces, glued and plastic welded together. I used PLA+ on this but wish I had used PETG.  I had started it before getting the PETG to print reliably.  Just can’t leave it in a hot car.

x1xR7N0.jpg

CVphCnG.jpgJ

Had some decent sized gaps to deal with.  When I print the next one it will be in one shot. 
tb2MC0h.jpg

iNFs67f.jpg
BdMMLA9.jpg
2A3KIPO.jpg

Here is the finished product.  This is the 3d model with the open nose and back vent which  I filled in to use the decals.  I pieced it together, filled in gaps with Bondo spot putty and DAP wood filler.  Then used A couple of coats of Rustoleum filler primer.  Painting was quite a learning process.  Getting an all around smooth and glossy finish is quite a challenge.  Finding the right distance and amount to apply without getting runs or a less glossy finish is tough.  I used three coats in total, wet sanding in between.  I had to stop at three coats because getting it perfect was too elusive. Especially when I’ve decided to likely use the other 3d model for my submission.  I’d like to hear thoughts on the likelihood of this one getting approval though.  

QsVi8S7.jpg
1MYQsjI.jpg
JKt8uFA.jpg

VBVAsZE.jpg

The only other complete piece I have is the EC-17 blaster.  Printed from @MrPoopie’s file.

H1JyYJd.jpg

DTZBv3B.jpg
 

I’m working on the armor pieces for now but have most of the material for the soft goods production so will be onto that soon.  It seems like Wampawear was the thing to do for gloves so I bought those.

Happy to be here and again many thanks to all who have posted previously.  This place is an amazing collection of info and instruction.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fantastic job on the helmet. [mention]Chopper [/mention] will be able to tell you if it’s good for basic.

The one thing you’ll want to do is black out the inside of the helmet behind the ears. You can paint it or use black gaffers tape, but no white should be seen through the ears.

Again, really impressive job there for a first time build. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Be sure to ask those questions, we’re here to help!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey thanks, that was one thing I wondered with this helmet design.  It’s different in being that the ears have a curved open channel instead of just a hole to the helmet interior.  Should everything behind the front edge of the ear hole be painted black or just at the back of the channel (if that makes sense)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything behind the front edge of the ear hole that can be seen when peering inside. Here’s a shot of an original ROTJ bucket for reference.

f7ccc4a984e9bdf0303e86cbff5ae0ef.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning...

woooahhh...what a work...respect for so much putty and sanding time 👌

But one question...why a 3D print?!?

The lid looks nearly good...nearly therefore--- >>

...it lacks the return edges (it is unmistakable with this design)...especially on the visor and also the area with ears like Dennis has wrote looks strange.

I know out of the 1st hand the assembling of a biker lid is really difficult and associated with a lot of time. But judging by your pictures there was more a lot of work...especially the glue and putty time etc 😵

Therefore the question why not a known helmet from RS, CfO, Rob etc...

I'm curious what the gml says to this helmet...but as was written...for a basic it is ok.

But anyway...the lid looks not bad.... 🤙

Cheers...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think initially I didn’t realize the work and time that would be involved with it.  And you are correct, a lot of putty and sanding time.  Probably 75% of the time spent on it was for that part.  Printing in one piece for each part, the mask, visor and helmet would have saved hours of time.  If I do another it will be that way since I have a larger printer now.  With all that said, I almost did stop early on in the process because of the uncertainty of getting approval for that model.  I agree that some aspects of it aren’t the same.  I just decided to commit to it and finish it since I have the time right now (winter being indoors a lot and still working a lot less due to the pandemic).  I’m not against buying one of the established helmets and I may go that route eventually.  Just wanted to give this a try.  If nothing else it was fun and a huge learning process figuring out how to take a print and post process it all.

A couple of updated pics with the ears painted in.  Looks much better and I think is in line with the CRL description.

9ft0t8Y.jpg

NHyFebN.jpg
3Sp5La9.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Keith, great job assembling and finishing your 3D printed helmet! Getting everything finished like you did really pays off.

That particular 3D helmet helmet design has been floating around for a while. The key point to consider in the CRL is the line where it says, "Helmet is true to the shape of original screen used helmet". I should say that this model is not the *most* accurate design out there, due to squared visor, the thinned top portion of the visor, and the squared off edges on the ear holes. As you mentioned, the Jesus Salomon design is the better 3D scout helmet model.

That said, for Level 1, it's likely OK, though the ultimate decision there will come down to your GML. If you were looking at Level 2, then I'd say that no, it likely wouldn't make the cut, due to the shape issues I mentioned. However, the final decision there is one that'd need to be made in consensus with the rest of the Level 2 Review team.

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Corey, thanks for that. I totally understand and one of the things that seems great about all this is the high standard to the CRL.  I knew putting that helmet together that while it looks nice, it’s just not quite in keeping with the true shape.  I’ll keep it around as a display but will work on Jesus’ model for my build.  I had really been leaning that way but with yours and others comments on it, it’s an easy decision. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keith you should be very proud on that helmet finish. It really is beautiful and I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with your next one. Nice work man and kudos to you for keeping the CRL close at hand! Use that as your checklist and if you have any questions at all reach out to us. We're here to make you successful!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The work is progressing.  Finished the TD.

g7miu8d.jpg

ddJkjNY.jpg

ztBaSxX.jpg

Armor is printed except for the chest, back and tank.  Which are in progress.  This is the raw PETG with some sanding then a coat of resin.  Have to sand them and then prime/paint tomorrow.  Also I figure it’s time to dust off the sewing machine and get into the soft stuff.  Starting with the elastic/Velcro for the armor pieces, flight suit and vest.  Should keep me busy for quite a while.

For installing rivets through fabric, elastic,etc do you guys use a punch to make a hole or just use a knife to make a small hole? Just wondering about fraying down the road or if it’s even an issue?  Replacing rivets is something I’d like to avoid.
dRho6gd.jpg

Full chest printed sideways.  Fingers crossed this thing makes it over the two plus day print.

2KSdYsx.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/20/2021 at 2:52 PM, Cheese said:

I think initially I didn’t realize the work and time that would be involved with it.  And you are correct, a lot of putty and sanding time.  Probably 75% of the time spent on it was for that part.  Printing in one piece for each part, the mask, visor and helmet would have saved hours of time.  If I do another it will be that way since I have a larger printer now.  With all that said, I almost did stop early on in the process because of the uncertainty of getting approval for that model.  I agree that some aspects of it aren’t the same.  I just decided to commit to it and finish it since I have the time right now (winter being indoors a lot and still working a lot less due to the pandemic).  I’m not against buying one of the established helmets and I may go that route eventually.  Just wanted to give this a try.  If nothing else it was fun and a huge learning process figuring out how to take a print and post process it all.

A couple of updated pics with the ears painted in.  Looks much better and I think is in line with the CRL description.

9ft0t8Y.jpg

NHyFebN.jpg
3Sp5La9.jpg

Indeed...if you have the time...why not. And like I said the lid looks not so bad. If he had the return edges on the visor etc...it would looks definitely better and more accurate.
Yea...the pandemie....lol...I have the time but no motivation 🙄
Furthermore have fun with your build 🤙

Cheers....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question for anyone that may know.  Is there any issue with a gap on the inner seam of the riding patches?  I ended up sewing them in quarters which may have been a mistake although I know others have done that.  The inner coverall seam is pretty thick and that combined with the suede, snapped a needle so I tried to avoid that seam. By doing so I have a bit of a gap between the front and back panels on each side. 
1ObFDUk.jpg

Not sure if I should have sewn the quarters of each leg together and then put it on the suit.

Got the collar done.

UGpCqYs.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Keith. It's not ideal but thinking about it your cod will cover this area so it shouldn't be an issue for basic. I think you're correct when you mentioned to sew them first then attach them to the flight suit. I agree that it would be the way to go the next time around. It might not be an issue for Lancer but I'll defer to @Chopper as he knows this armor much more in depth than I. The mandarin collar looks great though so no issues there. Overall you're doing great so keep it up! Looking forward to seeing you suit up!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven’t zipped up the outer seams yet so I have plenty of suede to redo, which I may do regardless.  So much of this is learn as you go. Appreciate the feedback @Retrofire

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Keith. This is a great WIP. You’re doing a great job!

Just to share my own experience. My riding patches are done in four quarters too. I seemed the front and back patches together where they meet on the inner thighs, but did not attach that seem to the inner seem of the coveralls for that very reason you mention. It’s too thick and will break needles. I just stitched the outer edge of the patches to the coveralls and have no issues. There’s no sag or anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @Retrofire, yeah I agree that the gap shouldn't make a difference for basic clearance. I think for Level 2, if you're interested in going that way, then it'd come down to how obvious it is when you're wearing it with your cod and other soft parts in place.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Small update.  I pulled the riding patch quarters with the gaps off and redid them. Much easier to sew all four together, then pin and sew to the flight suit. Looks much better as well.  Pretty sure the butt flap is too long, but want to wait to trim it until I get the cod strap attached to the vest to confirm how much.  Finished the vest as well.  Used a raglan shirt pattern and adjusted the length, neckline and sleeves.  It wasn’t easy attempting to size it to fit over the flight suit, but seems ok. 
1nLOCpq.jpg
4tWTQS6.jpg
cFVvzyE.jpg
kmsTxb5.jpg
cVYnzU7.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice job on the vest and patches. The butt flap definitely needs to be trimmed but wait as you said until you have everything together so that the armorers can advise you as to how much needs to be trimmed.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some decent progress this week.  I had finished the vest but wasn’t happy with the tightness across the front and the lighter material I had used for the chest and back parts.  Ripped the seams and redid the chest and back with a heavier cotton material, made the chest just a bit wider and lengthened it as well.  Much happier with it. Finished up the cod, cummerbund and pouches as well.  Haven’t attached the pouches to the cb yet.  I was going to use Velcro on the backs of the tabs and the front top edge of the cb. Is this the best way? I’ve seen some pictures with Velcro on the front of the pouch tabs.  Not sure where that is Velcroing to though. 
wCzO7Qa.jpg
 

uxONkTu.jpg
Rc6HcKU.jpg
cZsENbO.jpg
 

I still haven’t trimmed the butt flap.  Want to wait until the belt is finished. I think it’s still long but the cod strap made a big difference in how it looks.  Glad I didn’t trim it yet.  Thoughts or critiques in any of this please.  Thanks again for all the guidance and help.
qmED8bu.jpg
LqyUbVd.jpg

Armor is coming along.  Finished printing everything.  Chest and back printed perfectly in one piece (thanks Mr Poopie!).

JVlQxCg.jpg

Having a minor paint issue with the gloss white curing on a few pieces.  Not sure if it was the primer or something else.  Going to have to wet sand it down pretty far and restart the coats on the shoulders, knees, and arm pieces.  
 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far I think everything looks pretty good. You're right to leave the butt flap until you've got your belt sorted. No reason to rush that part. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Velcro that you see on the front of the pouch tabs is most likely being used by the Scout to secure the bund to the chest armor so it doesn’t shift or slide down from under the chest armor while trooping.

If you haven’t read it yet, Chopper has an excellent thread on tips and tricks to keep everything secure while trooping.

http://forum.501stpathfinders.com/index.php?/topic/18894-some-tips-for-keeping-your-scout-costume-together-while-trooping/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the link Dennis, that will be helpful very soon.

Started work on the boots.  I got the ones recommended but have a question regarding the sole color.  The CRL states tan just for basic clearance.  These seem more of a gum color to me but in many builds it appears that the soles are left as is.  Is this correct or should I paint them? 
Zf5ZLJU.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...