X303's TB Level 1 Build

[MJD-X303]

Hello troopers.

A few weeks ago I submitted my TB Scout costume for level 1 (basic) approval by the 501st Canadian Garrison. Sadly, I was rejected for a number of inconsistencies.

Here's the fix list the local GML sent me:

FLIGHTSUIT

- Riding patches extend way too far up. They should only extend a bit past the crotch and not all the way up to the waist.

- The same can be said of the elastic, they are situated too far down on your leg. And should ideally be at the halfway mark on your thigh. Make sure not to sew it too tight or too lose.

 

CHEST AND BACK ARMOUR

- Currently the biggest issue right now, is the size of the chest and back armour in relation to you. If it is a 3d-print I would highly suggest 5-10% which would solve the issue of the dead space between your armour and your cumberbund.

- The webbing connecting the chest and back armour should be white cotton webbing (1.5 inches)

 

TANK TOPPER GREEBLIE

- From what I can see there seems to be indents for the red strip and the white circle. That area shouldn't be indented and rather flat with the red and white circle painted over top

- While this is not for basic I would highly encourage the metal rivet on the top be centered on the greebie.

 

CUMBERBUND

- Your cummerbund will clear basic approval, however I would suggest later down the road to revise it if you wanted to go for Lancer (level 2)

 

BELT AND DETONATOR

- From what I can see from the drop box clips the webbing does not actually get fed through the end and back out but rather fed through both openings. The clips are just for show as they were not used with the screen used ones.

 

BOOTS

- From what I can see the boot sole does not appear to be tan and instead seems to be two different colours. This will have to be fixed since the CRL states "The soles of the boot are tan". Quickest and cheapest option would be to paint the sole of the shoe tan.

- The pipping of the boot also looks a bit wide, it should be 1/2 inch.

 

So, I'll be definitely be upscaling and reprinting the chest and back pieces as she recommended. Does anyone have a better, 501st approve STL I can use to remake them? For this build I used the files created by Mr. Poopie before he took them down.

I'll also be remaking the boots with better quality, properly tan coloured soles, and reworking the rigging connecting the hip boxes to the belt.

Anything else stick out to you guys I need to work on before I resubmit for basic 501st approval?

[MJD-X303]

More detail shots:

[Retrofire]

Hi Mike! I’m sorry you got rejected but you’ve come to the right place and we will be more than happy to help you get sorted out. @Chopper and @MrPoopie I’d love to have you weigh in on this candidates armor too! 

Boots:
Those look ok as far as height is concerned. If possible I would just paint up the soles with a wheat color paint unless you want to redo them and in that case check out this forum for more information: 

Chest and Back Armor:
Looking at the pictures that looks a bit too small for your build and should be scaled to you. 

Flightsuit:
The GML is correct there. The riding patches extend up too far. You should be able to trim those down and resew them. The same with the thigh straps. I would loosen those hems and redo them. You want them snug but not “cut off your circulation snug” they should sit about mid-thigh. A good pattern can be found here: https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TB_scout_trooper-suitdetail and here: 

Your buttflap seems a little on the large side and you might want to narrow that a little bit.

Belt and Detonator:
The clips were not functional on the screen used armor and the webbing is fed through both clip openings. That should be an easy fix.

Tank Topper Greeblie:
Regarding the indents I’m not sure what the GML was focusing on there. Can you provide a picture of your tank topper so we can take a look at it?

Cummerbund:
The cod is folding under where it passes through your legs causing what we call the dreaded “cod crunchies”. You can fix this by inserting  a bit of stiffener at the lower part of the cod piece. It’s not required for basic approval but it will make your armor look so much better. Keep in mind that the soft armor is a large part of this costume so it is really important to your overall look.

This may seem like a big list but we’re here to help you along so don’t hesitate to ask questions. We want you to be successful in your app!

[MrPoopie]

Boots:  are a bit too dark but at the very least should be one color not two-toned.

Chest & Back:  Size is too small and I would also suggest about an 8-10% increase. The chest should just cover the cummerbund all the way around. A good rule of thumb is that the cummerbund should fit slightly underneath the armor but should not be visible under the side straps. It's hard to see what the strap material is made out of so I can't comment on that.

Flightsuit:  Agree with the changes that the GML and @Retrofire stated.

Belt & Detonator:  Same as above about the straps. The tubing on the detonator is a tad too long on each side.

Tank Topper & Greeblie:  This one I have mixed feelings about. The indented circle should be acceptable as many other kits have this same feature including the SC kit. The indent on the middle "fin" is also a feature that has been present on other kits. Not sure why this is getting called out.

Cod:  Same as above. It's not a very difficult fix to pull in the sides of the cod to make it a tad thinner as well as slightly stiffer. 

 

If you need access to the 3D files again, just PM me and I'll send you the link. You should be able to scale them up. You've done lots of great work and you're close to the finish line so keep working and make the adjustments and you'll soon be very happy with your final product.

[MJD-X303]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yes, my mistake was measuring the chest/back assembly while wearing a t-shirt, not the flight suit and cummberbund. It was printed at 100% size, so upscaling it should be fairly easy. My friend and I will do a proper measuring this weekend in preparation for the reprint.

@Retrofire there are slight (1-2mm deep I think) indents on the tank greeblie where the red line and white dot are. According to my GML they should be flat. Since I'm reprinting the back and tank anyway, I can fill them in with putty and filler primer, so it's not that big a deal. But I figured I'd ask if there are alternate STLs out there so I wouldn't have to. @MrPoopie I was surprised I got dinged for the depressions too, since I saw the same thing on other people's builds. But if the GML wants them gone, I guess I get rid of them.

How much thinner should I make the butt flap, percentage wise?

Also, what do you guys think of the spacing of the hip box straps at the rear of the belt (where the thermal detonator is). Are they too far apart, or are they fine where they are? Since I have to redo the hip box straps anyway, I can move them if I have to.

I'll see if the seamstress I'm getting to alter my flight suit riding pads can also stiffen up the white crotch pad too, using your tutorial example.

Expect more questions as I go.

 

[MrPoopie]

11 minutes ago, MJD-X303 said:

Thanks for the replies guys.

Yes, my mistake was measuring the chest/back assembly while wearing a t-shirt, not the flight suit and cummberbund. It was printed at 100% size, so upscaling it should be fairly easy. My friend and I will do a proper measuring this weekend in preparation for the reprint.

@Retrofire there are slight (1-2mm deep I think) indents on the tank greeblie where the red line and white dot are. According to my GML they should be flat. Since I'm reprinting the back and tank anyway, I can fill them in with putty and filler primer, so it's not that big a deal. But I figured I'd ask if there are alternate STLs out there so I wouldn't have to. @MrPoopie I was surprised I got dinged for the depressions too, since I saw the same thing on other people's builds. But if the GML wants them gone, I guess I get rid of them.

How much thinner should I make the butt flap, percentage wise?

Also, what do you guys think of the spacing of the hip box straps at the rear of the belt (where the thermal detonator is). Are they too far apart, or are they fine where they are? Since I have to redo the hip box straps anyway, I can move them if I have to.

I'll see if the seamstress I'm getting to alter my flight suit riding pads can also stiffen up the white crotch pad too, using your tutorial example.

Expect more questions as I go.

 

Those 3D files were created by me so it was super easy to remove the indents. If you check the link below there's a new file uploaded for "Tank Topper No Indents" in the "Back" folder.

[Retrofire]

28 minutes ago, MrPoopie said:

Those 3D files were created by me so it was super easy to remove the indents. If you check the link below there's a new file uploaded for "Tank Topper No Indents" in the "Back" folder.

That’s awesome of you Justin! Yeah I’m really confused why the GML dinged him on that as it’s not specified in the CRL. Even the screen used tank has indents. The GML has the last word though and it’s all fixable.

The thigh box straps could come in a bit since you’re redoing them. Here’s where they are on the CRL model:

The box strapping just goes through one side of the clip and out the other so it just “looks” like the clip is connected. That’s the way the screen scouts were fitted so we’re mirroring that.

For the buttflap take a look at the second picture in the suit detail link I sent you. Looks like you can lose about 2.5cm (1 inch) from each side @Chopper what do you think?

As I mentioned we are here to help you so you just keep asking those excellent questions and we’ll be here to help answer them!

[Chopper]

4 hours ago, Retrofire said:

For the buttflap take a look at the second picture in the suit detail link I sent you. Looks like you can lose about 2.5cm (1 inch) from each side @Chopper what do you think?

Yeah, I can see that. Maybe 3/4" to 1" off each side?