SimpleJedi Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Does anyone know if this is accurate? Main Armor Tan - Rustoleum Satin Ivory Bicep and Logo Red - Krylon Banner Red, Rustoleum Cherry Red Grey/Blue - Design Master Blue Sky (from Michael's) / Krylon Peekaboo Blue Yellow - Rustoleum Golden Sunshine Weathering and Armor Black - Flat Black Weathering and Armor White - Flat White 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Work Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 That's the go to colors for now. There's some debate still if we can find a better match for the tan and blue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimpleJedi Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 I feel that if we change the Tan color we will be opening a BIG can of enmity, since 90% of the people building this kit is using Rustoleum Satin Ivory. It might not be 100% accurate but is it close enough? As for the blue, I really like Rust-Oleum Spa Blue: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Gloss-Spa-Blue-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249093/100670415 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Work Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 It's absolutely close enough for basic. We're just talking about in the future for those that are interested in going that extra step. There's not going to be a brand or specific color of paint listed on the crl. Just Tan/White/Black etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
netslave Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I tried the spa blue and thought it was way too deep of a blue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimpleJedi Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 I tried the spa blue and thought it was way too deep of a blue. Bummer! Wouldn't it be easier if there was a PMS reference # that everyone can refer to... or just a specific paint that you have to use so that everyone is consistent and we don't have an army of 50 shades of tan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
netslave Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 I totally agree. With the go-to list above, you're pretty safe. Most people I've seen are using these colors. After a few of us spent way more on paint than we care to admit to test, this was the best list we came up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDon Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Does anyone know if this is accurate? Main Armor Tan - Rustoleum Satin Ivory Bicep and Logo Red - Krylon Banner Red, Rustoleum Cherry Red Grey/Blue - Design Master Blue Sky (from Michael's) / Krylon Peekaboo Blue Yellow - Rustoleum Golden Sunshine Weathering and Armor Black - Flat Black Weathering and Armor White - Flat White this is what some of us determined to be the go to for colors in the USA. Colours in the UK/Europe will have different names more than likely. Bummer! Wouldn't it be easier if there was a PMS reference # that everyone can refer to... or just a specific paint that you have to use so that everyone is consistent and we don't have an army of 50 shades of tan this is why we have have spent time and money researching the colors so you do not have to. We have a pretty close match. The red, yellow, black, and white colors are consistent across brands. You will want to make sure you get those colors in a solid shade. None of that Red-Orange or Orange Red stuff.. You want RED RED. But the main armor color and the blue have proven to be difficult to narrow down. The colors already specified will work and are pretty close to what was used and this is after a proper weathering. I've spent close to $100 on spray paint... by the way I feel that if we change the Tan color we will be opening a BIG can of enmity, since 90% of the people building this kit is using Rustoleum Satin Ivory. It might not be 100% accurate but is it close enough? As for the blue, I really like Rust-Oleum Spa Blue: http://www.homedepot...49093/100670415 I tried it and next to Blue Sky this looks purple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obey Wann Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Here lies the debate: Do you go for the screen-accurate color (with all of the color matching, lens filters and other digital effects added), or what it looks like in real life, under ideal lighting conditions? The reality is that we've never seen these kits under ideal lighting conditions (say a 5500K daylight rated studio bulb), so it is really tough to get it perfect, short of someone at LFL telling us exactly what they used as the base. I have a strong hunch that they did color correcting in the film, to increase saturation on colors, and make the blacks darker. In essence, we are totally back to the Han ESB Hoth coat debate. Is it brown or blue? There is "What it looks like on screen" and then there is "what it looks like in real life." The challenge here is that they might be two completely different colors, due to lens filters and post production enhancements. I'm going to take a piece of painted armor, and some screenshots to a local hobby store tomorrow. I'm hoping that maybe, just maybe, there is an accurate color in the hobby market. Because what we are getting in the hardware store department is close, but not perfect. And failing that, I'll use the exact paint everyone else in my garrison is using, so we all match for the premiere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obey Wann Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 I stopped by Ace Hardware tonight, here is every color I could find that is remotely close. Note: few are called "tan." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nacho Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Thanks for taking these pics. Going to have to grab a couple, spray a test piece and compare the colors when dry. Honestly, if we go with ivory, it's all in the wash with this color. The light mustard wash over the tan. The Navajo looks good, then I look away and second guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Work Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Note: few are called "tan." So which of the several colors you have there fits as a better description of the overall color? Navajo perhaps? Or should it be Almond? Are those the colors you first think of when you see a shoretrooper? I don't think so. I think most of us when the first pics leaked called it tan. Some called it the sand scout. The CRL, especially for basic approval, is a general guide for GML's for approving costumes. They are not a construction guide for the costume. That is what the boards are for. We collectively push builders towards the right tried and true colors that we have tested and know work as a group. We can not list a specific brand or shade without alienating members in different parts of the world that do not have access to that color. Tan is the best general term for describing the base color of the armor. No one wants a CRL that says " Well it's a kind of yellow-brown-tan- mustardy color" We are all working towards having a great CRL and basis for this costume. If you want to see something changed make a suggestion. Being petty helps no one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obey Wann Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Work, understood. I was simply trying to find the right color. Do not read anything into my post that I did not say. This is one of the hardest colors to match, let alone name. Also, this was not directed at the CRL, as this is the section for paint color discussion. I'm simply trying to find the right color of paint. With luck, before I finish painting this weekend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimpleJedi Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 I personally think that Ivory Silk is an amazing base colour. Obviously its all in the weathering but Ivory is versetile since it's light to begin with. It's better to start a little lighter and go darker then start off dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraktilfilth Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 This image from the topps card trader shows how different the armour colour can appear in one shot of the film. It is also quite useful as there are TK's next to them for reference. The shoretrooper at the front is most likely in shadow given how grey the TK next to him is. The shoretrooper behind is probably quite close if maybe a little bit over saturated with light. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDon Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 I tried the spa blue and thought it was way too deep of a blue. It's got a hint of purple to me Some I know are going with Rustoleum Sand (7771) with a matt clear as the base but I'm just not feeling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDon Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 I stopped by Ace Hardware tonight, here is every color I could find that is remotely close. Note: few are called "tan." I want to see the Sand (7771) next to the ivory silk if you could knock that out for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighthawk756 Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Hmmmm, that Navajo looks pretty good. Eveyone talks about the silk not having enough yellow in it and adding it with washes. Navajo has more yellow than silk. Looks pretty close to me. I need to pick some up and do some test panels. Was about to start my ivory top coats tonight but I might postpone EDIT: Just noticed Navajo is gloss and enamel so No Bueno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obey Wann Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 I don't mind the gloss. That'll get knocked down with washes and a dull clear coat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDon Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 Hmmmm, that Navajo looks pretty good. Eveyone talks about the silk not having enough yellow in it and adding it with washes. Navajo has more yellow than silk. Looks pretty close to me. I need to pick some up and do some test panels. Was about to start my ivory top coats tonight but I might postpone EDIT: Just noticed Navajo is gloss and enamel so No Bueno The lid color is not indicative of the actual paint color. You can use gloss, you will need to do a Matt clear before weathering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighthawk756 Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 The gloss can be dulled yes but being enamel creates its own set of hurdles. Enamel usually doesn't weather well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obey Wann Posted November 23, 2016 Share Posted November 23, 2016 I posted this in the other paint thread, but tonight I picked up this Model Master paint. It has the yellow that other paints are missing. I'm going to test it on top of an Ivory Silk painted part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartstopper85 Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Oh man that model paint is gonna be expensive to use I'm sure it will look good though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Obey Wann Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 It was almost identical to Rustoleum Ivory Silk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartstopper85 Posted November 28, 2016 Share Posted November 28, 2016 Yeah maybe a hint darker, what was the cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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