comm tech Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Looking pretty good as far a fitting goes. Under the shoulder bells, I used a cheap black knee pad (bought at Harbor Freight tools for around $3.00. THat worked perfect for me. The paint sticking has been an issue for everyone that got the black BikerChick straps. I was so tired of the Paint coming off, I molded my own out of clay, cast them in plaster and them made the final product out of tinted grey silicone. I have not molded the belt yet, but it is next on my list. I had a lot of silicone left over on the first batch so I used the left over to make another set of glove greebs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 great work,very nice detailes edges on Your molds ,i've got that new grey BC rubber parts ,i can make belt by glueing black leather squares inside belt slots ,but worse with knee belts they are light grey while need to be dark grey or black Ah and i will rearrange belt a bitfrom what i saw on ref pictures belt slots shoud'nt be squares,they have kinda twice width than height so i decided to remove someof that vertical "walls" between squares,to make em rectangular. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Knee straps should still stay grey. Whether they are light or dark, they are still grey, not black. They can be weathered by misting some black over them, with spray paint. That usually works. I also did the same on the BC belt. I removed some of the "walls" to make them more rectangle. This is what the belt should look like...in my opinion. (This is just a section of a MrB style belt.) I'm still modifying the BC belt. Remember..BC's belt was based off of the original PGHFett design. There is nothing that says it's wrong. It can be used. It, like other items relating to the Kashyyyk, just need to be slightly modified. No worries. Everything will come together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Thx Grumpy,i know BC stuff is fully accepted though i 'm trying to get screen accurate where i can ;)my last research shows so belt its sumfin like that :under buckle is rectangle,on both sides of that rectangle ,are single squares ,then all over rectangles.http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/5259/rih9.jpg here shows rectangle under buckle and side squares. http://imageshack.us/a/img32/9592/qzr4.jpg here are definitely rectangles even wider than x2 square i would say. About knee caps it would be alot easier for me to keep em grey So thx for opinion i wondered so crl says dark grey or black , but if BC colour with weathering will work that are great news thx vm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Both of those pictures are accurate, to me. Very good research. You'll be just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 latest colour experiment,green will go a bit darker when dry i think so brown behaved that way and theyre same producer sprays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 5, 2013 Author Share Posted December 5, 2013 lil update some parts after weathering ,helmet is clear so colours can be compared,and gloves practically ready sry for poor pic of glove :/i hope i'll send bigger update after weekend . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 some things decided to drop off ,so sadly i wasnt able put all that stuff on me hopefully after this weekend but here some things i did meanwhile fixing those straps/naps wchich dropped. belt slots ,ive glued leather there shin weathered and with belts&buckles attached left biceps with greeble ,need painting yet and glueing greeble so it was only measured for photo biceps isnt weathered yet so colours are sharp but wil look like other stuff and some main plates after weathering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 I still can't get over the paint job. The weathering makes it that much better as well. You've done a fantastic job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 12, 2013 Author Share Posted December 12, 2013 I still can't get over the paint job. The weathering makes it that much better as well. You've done a fantastic job! Thx Brent well i used mostly dry brush method for "dirtying" damages and some areas,and green wash on all surfaces, will add some more yet just need dark brown paint,so i wont put too much black weathering ,im soldier not a miner ;P for masking damages before paint i used jst normal toothpaste some ppl reccomend mustard also,but mustard can change colour of chrome layer,wash added alot of realism to "dirtying " also tampering colours ,edges of pattern and also matted chrome shine as it would be old metal,no freshly scratched :)working on putting together sides of back&chest velcros seems be to weak to keep em together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 a bit forward with helmet,almost ready,started blaster finished almost all hard parts now just putting it together and sew cumberbund&pouches that film on visor gone bad :/i will probably making new one just got no film need buy new piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 hm You guys used regular velcro to keep together sides of main plates?seems mine dont keep together very good i try industrial velcros probably,think i use same for toe caps.Got question also about pouches that 2 long pouches wchich goes on back on sides of spine pouches must be lighter colour?Or we do all pouches same colour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 The two long pouches on the back appear lighter in different scenes. You can make them a bit lighter and just add a bit of weathering to them. A few GML's have made comments about those two particular pouches. (I've also heard the same about the front drop pouches... ) So, make them like what you see from that scene. Do your best. Mine are all the same for the base coat and camo. But, I added some weathering in the form of a white spray paint can. Misting lightens it up. After you make them, post some pics, and we'll see what you have. And yes, try the industrial Velcro. That seems to work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 18, 2013 Author Share Posted December 18, 2013 Thx Grumpy ,hope i get em before x-mas vacation so can finally put all that hard stuff together while i'll have some free time :)And yes on some renders front long pouches also seems lighter ;P but its ok i have greygreen bresent for all regular pouches,and have some material wchich colour resemble my base of camouflage and is alot lighter,have similiar structure like bresent so maybe i use that material for that long back pouches:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LENOX61 Posted December 19, 2013 Share Posted December 19, 2013 Looking good bro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 27, 2013 Author Share Posted December 27, 2013 working on boots and blaster other stuff also gone bit far i've "doiscovered" why my velcros are too weak....it seems glue i used burn em and prevent em from keeping stuff together ,so some stuff will need fixes. also elastics from shoulderbells are too loose ithink so shoulderpads keep going back/forward maybe i put velcro under em also to keep em on place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 tibanna gas magazine almost ready ,hell covering wood facture with bondo over all blaster will be horrific job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 and here pic how it looks as for today definitely need do sumfin with shoulderbells they wont keep in place just on elastics and t connectors ,they tend to go forward or back too much maybe padding shape :/ or velcro will help.sorry for quality seems my camera fails last times with autosetup for flash lamp,no cumberbund yet its in work also drop boxes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted December 29, 2013 Share Posted December 29, 2013 One alternative to the shoulder bell problem is the use of Velcro. You can either use the nylon strapping material to have them connected to the chest and back plates as a "t-strap." That is fine. But, to give them the floating look, sew a strip of velcro on to the shoulder area of the shirt and the other piece of Velcro to the inside of the shoulder bell. Still have the padding underneath to give the "big shoulder" look, that the clones are supposed to have. That way you wouldn't see the black nylon straps at the top of the shoulder bell, and around the arm at the bottom of the shoulder bell. Or, just add the Velcro to your existing set-up. That would give it extra supportiveness and prevent it from moving around. Either way should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 29, 2013 Author Share Posted December 29, 2013 okay Thx Grumpy will try that We've got an charity action here at 12 january ,i hope i will join our garrison as support so i doubt i will be ready for application for that time,if so i hope bring You better photos of my junk Thx for advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted December 31, 2013 Share Posted December 31, 2013 a realy easy solution for the shoulder bells is knee pads.... go buy yourself a CHEAP pair or foam knee pads (under $5 at local hardware store, oh and they have elastic bands built in) take those and glue/secure them to the inside of the shoulder bell, its a nice comfortable fit on your shoulder and they shouldn't slide forward SCRATCH ALL THAT... just seen you have them in the pictures. try the velcro like Matt said, or try using tighter elastic straps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted December 31, 2013 Author Share Posted December 31, 2013 Thx Allan i'm trying to cut a bit padding and shorten elastics,also i'll add square velcros under shoulders "just in case" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted January 4, 2014 Author Share Posted January 4, 2014 little update on blaster construction just fasteners aiming module and painting/weathering to do,folded stock is already done just will be painted separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Man that is looking nice! Another idea being stolen from you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gerald Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 no problem ,there no "rights reserved" mark on it ;p i,m only putting it together,(well maybe with some fixes) but its product of one of our weaponsmiths. here is a bit more pictures ,there are yet some places wchich i need sand a bit so bondo isnt flat, and in sharp light they came from under paint but i will do after event so ive got alot to do yet with cumberbund and pouches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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