bselphfsu282 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 I was referring to the toe cover, which fits well length wise, but just wide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 I've been useing a heat gun... Just make sure not to put too much heat to the armor and it should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 This is what I was talking about. Also, think I need to take any more off the bottom of the leg piece? Doesn't quite make it to the toe cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miqt Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Looking good... Mine are way to wide and long, but you have bigger than sz 9 feet I'm thinking. Ill be cutting mine up, looks like you can get away with a little heat gun action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 17, 2013 Author Share Posted May 17, 2013 Yeah size 13 and just not sure there is much I can do to make it where the shin sits under to boot topper. Dang clown feet with chicken legs is not a good combo with this armor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Each armor maker ends up having certain parts coming up being made differently. I have one of the original styles. My shin armor goes straight down. Doesn't curve onto the top of the boot to go under the boot topper. The MrB style armor has the shins that curve onto the top of the boot. To me, it doesn't really matter, just as long as the shin armor stays in place and doesn't spin around on your leg. If the laces of the boots show, either paint them white (or tan) like the boot, or add a piece of white (or tan) leather (or leather-like) material to cover the laces. It's just a minor detail that isn't too noticeable, except to Kashyyyk OCD perfectionists. (Like us.) Plus, I don't think the average Clone had size 13 feet. (I have that problem as well.) Some of my laces show. Eh...oh, well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Anyone seen Tamyia paint TS 61 & 62? It is a NATO green and a brown. Thoughts? http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/spray.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Couldn't find the krylon ultra flat camo paint, but found 2 that are close. Which one looks correct? http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/bselphfsu282/media/image.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 I'd say the one on the right is closest to the Krylon Ultra-Flat Tan... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 Yep. Rust-oleum has three colors for their Camouflage paint line. The one called "Khaki" is the one I use for the base color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 They also carry 2 different greens as well, but wasn't sure if they would work. What about the Tamiya TS-62 and TS-61 for the brown and green? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 I think those used to be colors that were available at specialty or model making stores. I have no idea where to find those anymore. I just used an olive green and bark brown craft paint colors from Jo-Ann's and Wal-Mart, respectively. I lightened them up in different places, according to the shadow-play. You just work with it until it looks good to you. In other words, what would be "screen appropriate." (Don't wanna go there, anymore.) Make it something that looks visually appealing. And the "patterns" on the Kashyyyk's camo will not be the same. (Real world here, not CGI.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 Yeah I found them in rattle cans at the hobby store in town. I have noticed the camo looks a little different than what is being used. They have a little more spotted spray paint look, instead of the hard lined camo look that I've seen. I prefer the hard line look to it, but I get what you are saying on it. I'm a little color blind, so the distinctions between close colors are hard for me to determine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Yeah, most of what I've done has been has been the hard lined, hand-painted style. Not really a specific pattern, but it still looks good. I've seen it done on other Kashyyyk Troopers, as well. Just try what you think feels and looks good to you, post up pictures and we will nit-pick it to death. Just kidding. Only constructive comments here. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 I'm at the point now, that in order for the chest and back plates sides to meet up, I'm having to wear the chest a little higher that previously thought, sits on breast bone, and I'm having to cut a bit off the shoulders for them to meet on the tops. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Alright, chopped some of the shoulders, but concerned I did too much. Should it look like this ? http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/bselphfsu282/media/5beb7a29-f65c-4731-9aa1-50aec12e78c9.jpg.html?state=copy Or this? http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/bselphfsu282/media/image-5.jpg.html?state=copy http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/bselphfsu282/media/image-3.jpg.html?state=copy http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/bselphfsu282/media/image-2.jpg.html?state=copy http://s1066.photobucket.com/user/bselphfsu282/media/image-6.jpg.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 From the look of the 2nd last picture (#6) I think the back needs to come up more. I'm just at that point right now, I'm trying to get it looking correct as well... So imm gonna chop a little off the top of the straps and then I'll have to trim the sides so they line up with each other (I don't mean cutting any length off the sides, I mean putting a different curve in it because you need to have the back overlap the front piece) Umm lemme see if I can get a picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 The chest piece actually looks better up higher. (It's gonna ride up on you anyway, with the weight of the back and tank.) The side view pic with the chest and tank looks good. (In my opinion.) The shoulder strap area will have a gap between the chest and back piece. That's where the grey greeblie comes into play. It covers the gap and gives it that "connected" appearance. Like Recon said, it's down on the sides that is a concern. I understand what he means when he's not going to cut any length out of it, but give the pieces a curve to meet together. That would work. I don't know if you guys are doing the overlap or the two sides just meeting together. I believe now that the meeting together is for the "movie accuracy" since all regular clone chest and back pieces just meet at the sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Woah, so no overlap now? I was doing the overlap in the pictures, but I would need to trim just a bit to make sure they line up smoothly, I guess I should have had a picture of the side, but I think I have that figure out, so the front is not sticking out under the back that is overlapping. So overlapping is not movie now, so are we joining and doing bondo? The BC kit didn't come with the rubber covers on the shoulders, but I plan on using your idea of the pipe covering for it. I like the snaps, Grumps, that you posted on Recon's post, but would Velcro work as well? Hopefully (fingers crossed) ill be losing some of this gut and wanted to take it in if needed. The chest is not tight, and I think I have enough room for the cummerbund at this point, but didn't know your opinion. Man, maybe it is easier for Recon and I to just make a joint post, since we seem to mirror each others progress and questions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Haha, there's a thought, join the threads Would that make it a string? Hmm I wasn't aware of this none-overlapping for movie accurate, I'm going to have to think about how I want to go about this now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miqt Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 They can overlap.... They just have to appear to join... One small shim on the inside of the back that reaches under the chest to join. Clones tc's and ct's have a recessed strip joining the chest and back. Wonder if that would look good on these too. Bet they would. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Woah, so no overlap now? I was doing the overlap in the pictures, but I would need to trim just a bit to make sure they line up smoothly, I guess I should have had a picture of the side, but I think I have that figure out, so the front is not sticking out under the back that is overlapping. So overlapping is not movie now, so are we joining and doing bondo? The BC kit didn't come with the rubber covers on the shoulders, but I plan on using your idea of the pipe covering for it. I like the snaps, Grumps, that you posted on Recon's post, but would Velcro work as well? Hopefully (fingers crossed) ill be losing some of this gut and wanted to take it in if needed. The chest is not tight, and I think I have enough room for the cummerbund at this point, but didn't know your opinion. Man, maybe it is easier for Recon and I to just make a joint post, since we seem to mirror each others progress and questions! Overlapping if fine. Either way should be accepted. "Noooooooooo"....don't connect the sides and use bondo. You defiantely want these pieces to separate. The option is that they just come together, with another strip of armor holding them together on the back of the armor. (Velcro.) I just used snaps on the chest - back - shoulder bell area. (At the top where all three meet.) The sides have velcro on them. Back overlapping the front. That's the way that part could be adjusted....if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Got little work done this weekend, but coming along nicely. Had to wait for the liquid latex to come to the house so I could mask off the silver. I used a black liquid latex I found online, an has worked great. Now I'm on the camo portion, but can't quite get the color right, as far as I can tell. What do you guys think if this combo? http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u415/bselphfsu282/image-7.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Do some more pattern and take another shot, hard to tell with the small piece but I think the tan is a little dark but the brown/green look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 Yeah the brown/green are the concern. The tab was the suggested paint by Matt. Ill try to take some more pics tonight when I get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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