bselphfsu282 Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 Awesome! I am planning on playing around with it this weekend to see how I can figure it. Ill post up pics as I go. I also had a question on the shins, but ill post a picture later on it. The trim lines on the BC kit seems to be a bit shallow, but ill know more when I actually cut the return edges to see if it will fit. I have pretty small calves and they look like it won't fit my leg. Didn't know if anyone else had this problem and had to put in bigger shims than usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 For my tank greeb I cut a hole and stuck the greeb up through it... Should be a pic or two on my WIP build... Won't be home till may 16 but I can get some pics for you then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 So great! Got everything trimmed this weekend, except for the shins. I have not decided what boots would work and I don't want to tackle those until I get the boots for measurement. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Question guys, what boots are everyone using at this time? Also, with this BC kit, the straps and belt seem a bit flimsy an I didn't want to run the risk of them tearing. Should they be coated with plastiseal and then painted grey primer? Also, how does the belt attach in the back? I plan on adding snaps to the bottom of the cumberbund and snap on the belt (or velcro, whichever seems to e better) but do the backs just meet in the middle or is it attached to the webbing belt that was provided? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miqt Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I cant figure out what the heavy black web belt that was provided is for!? I think most people have added the ribbed belt detail to the bottom of the cumberbund with velcro. From what i can tell it just meets at the back, nothing fancy. If you find a way to paint it let me know! Any non foam rubber ive ever tried to paint hasnt worked out well at all. Im thinking of laminating very thin plastic to the belt (rectangles inside and strips for the edges) with ca glue then painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Alright guys, opinions on tank and sun visor? Also, how did you guys attach the visor? I put two small screws in at this point, but wanted to check before I did something I shouldn't. The screw does not sit flush and didn't know if there was a trick. For anyone who has a BC kit, can you post a picture of the shins you did? I'm unsure of where to cut. I jointed the biceps, but since I have smaller arms, the ABS joining strip keeps cracking or on the verge of cracking. Suggest heat gun to bend them a bit more? Thanks guy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miqt Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Great work on the tank! Haven't done much to my shins yet. I just cut where the good shape starts and ill shim the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 7, 2013 Author Share Posted May 7, 2013 Can someone tell me how they attached their visor? What screw and did you make it flush with the visor? Also, can someone tell me how the thigh pouch should be cut at a bias. From pics I have seen of others, it looks flat across an not cut at an angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 7, 2013 Share Posted May 7, 2013 Here's a couple pics of the pants with the thigh pouches. The left side has an angle the opposite of the right side. Nothing too harsh. Just a small bit. (Not the greatest pictures, either. ) The flaps can come down a little more. This pic is just an example. As long as the pouch has the specific design for the flap, it should be okay. I'll get back with you on the visor. (PM sent) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 8, 2013 Author Share Posted May 8, 2013 I'm a big fan of rattle cans and the ease of painting with them, so what would be the suggested color of choice? I know the rustoleum Fossil for the base, but what of the brown and green? I'm going to try to do the painting with cut out stenciles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comm tech Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Brent, Great job of fitting the tank to the back plate. I am just starting to trim mine. I hope mine comes out half as good as yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Patience! Miqt gave a great reference for me to get started with, but it vary a good bit as well. I felt like I was working on a dang ear cover on a TK helmet again! If you have a dremel, use it with 120 grit sanding drum for the finer fitting. Mine is still not perfect, sitting just a little higher on one corner than the other, but I think it works and is just me being OCD about it! Starting the bondo on everything tomorrow and ill post up some pics. Trying to get the paint figured out at this point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comm tech Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 To mount the tank on the back plate..did you cut a hole in the back plate and install the "l Brackets" that came with the kit, with e6000 (or some variant) or did you go a whole different direction. Been working on all the other parts this AM, might attack the tank this afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 Did the hole in the back plate and L-brackets. I didn't make the hole too back, but big enough to put my hand through. I also have to cut out the top of the tank so the greeblie can sit in there. I will take an extra piece of abs and tack it as a base plate one the underside of the top of the tank. The L brackets didn't work perfectly and had to be bent a little with the heat gun for them to get a good fit on both the tank and back plate. I also put some CA glue around the edges to help secure it, but since I will be putting bondo all over it, I was probably unnecessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comm tech Posted May 12, 2013 Share Posted May 12, 2013 Sounds like what I am doing as well. My "L brackets didn't come bent, they are just 5- 1" x 4" pieces of HIPS. I have to bend them to make them L brackets. Also my tank greeb came with a flare out on the bottom of it, do they not come that way any more? It mad emy install nice and easy. Have not sealed it into place yet. but you did inspire me to get woking on the tank...so thanks for that. Florida needs more KT's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Death Recon Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I got the first rotation of BC's armor and it has the flaired out tank greeb and the L-brackets... Keep up the good work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Does the tank look too fat? I didn't even think the greeb had a lip to it, thank god I didn't cut yet, but problem is going to be the back plate to the greeb is about 2 inches and same from greeb to the edge of the tank. Think this will work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miqt Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Looks to me (from the over shoulder firing at the beach screen grab) like the greeb should be just a touch closer to the backplate than the tank edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Good look there, I noticed it too when I looked. How are the shoulders supposed to sit on the connecting back and chest plates? I know there are gray greebs that go on the shoulder pieces on the chest, but is there anything on the back? And should they connect, or should there be a gap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 The small rectangular grey rubber piece sits on the shoulder strap area of the chest plate and the back plate. It's like an outside connector. Look at a Biker Scout. Their chest piece has a white fabric piece "connecting" them together. There will be a gap between the chest and back plate, at the shoulder, but the grey greeb covers that. I have velcro on the back of my greeb and two pieces on the armor, so the greeb just sits on top of the velcro on the armor. Sort of like a "connecting" piece, but just to cover the gap. Clear as mud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Ok, I know lots of questions today, but I blame Grumpy for getting my mind working on this tank/weight thing! The CRL is silent, but could you make the cumberbund open on the side, under the arm/arms instead of the back? Here is my thinking: you make the cumberbund open on the sides so you can open it and slide in and out. You make it where there are your straps attached to the cumberbund itself, so it looks more like a tank top than just a cumberbund. You then put Velcro on the front of the cumberbund and the back of the chest and back plates. Kind of like Jango, you put the plates on the cumberbund with the velcro and the straps that are attached to the velcro for the shoulders. Then you could actually leave it on the cumberbund for good an just slip in and out by opening the bund on the side. Since it would open to the arm pit, you could slide out without ever having to take off the hard armor. Might solve the issue with the tank pulling down since it is more attached to the cumberbund and not to just the chest. Also would prevent any of the fatigues showing between the bund and the chest and back plates. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grumpy Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Wow! Whatever caffiene infested drink you are having, I'll take one. There's nothing that says how the cummerbund has to be made. Just as long as it looks like the screen references. Most people (like us old guys) have made them this way based on whoever started to build this thing. For me, the opening in the back works because then the tank and the two large back pouches will hide the seam of the cummerbund coming together. Give it a shot and make one like you said. See how it works and fits on you. Nobody said we can't be creative. We have to do some odd things to get this costume to work. Oh, and yeah....blame the Grump. Sheesh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Ha! Red bull this morning and Dr. Pepper this afternoon! Hey, reading law all day, and your mind will start to wonder! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bselphfsu282 Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Are you guys using a heat gun to form the armor somewhat? My boots are a little narrow for the covers, and they stick out a bit. Also, the forearm section is a little wide an could be closed in. I have never worked with a heat gun on armor, just PVC, and I'm worried I will put bumps and impressions from fingers on it. Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miqt Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Prob better to cut the boot armor up and resize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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