jcalus

Oh that piece. It's not a full bridge from the back to front. It will lay under the shoulder strap and is there to give a ridged point to connect the shoulder bell. I've seen pics of something similar on the film used costumes, but coming from the front. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

The 2 large greeblies 850 sent were great for a costume, but we're 501st, so needed to be better. So I have a set on order from Mr Paul and will build from them when they get here. The openings have been dbl layered. Strength and to give a bit more depth. Leaving all the protruding greeblies off till the end. Also have my hip armor coming from Paul , and belt from Imperial issue. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

I've been working on the chest and back assembly for the past little while. The front had 2 collars that had to go. The back has a high ridge line to mount the included vac collar to, but it spread it out too much. So.. I had to take it off and remount to the inside. Shouldn't have been in such a hurry... lol Also cut the rear shoulder back a little. The collar was still a bit wide at the ends so I filled them 1/4 way with Oatey bonding puddy and put them in line with the chest cut outs to harden. Worked really well. Cut out the inside neck plate and replaced to give a more accurate look. I'm glad I was able to get the ends bend back. I'll smooth out with ABS paste.. there's a more than a few spots tat need it.. lol Shoulders have 1 1/2" black elastic that are fixed to the back and snap to front. Then added a bridge from the back to attach the shoulder bell snap. My sandy is like this, and it works well for me. The vac formed back bottom detail was a bit small and round so a new one was made from 1/8. Left out the backing until beige painting is done. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

Got some work done on the rear canisters. 850 gives a vacformed ribbed sheet to be rolled, 4 end caps, and a 2 piece cylinder. The ribbed sheet is designed to go into the caps, but on screen the ribs butt into the end, and they are a bit too big.. So cut some 1/16, rolled, banded, gave a hot water bath, and they kept their shape. The end caps where cut using a blade resting a board to keep a nice straight line while twisting the caps. Then used the 2 half cylinders as the ribs. They where already curved so that was super handy. There was a gap between the cylinder and cap so it was filled with ABS paste along with the indentation that is supposed to be the joint line near the end. Added the line back after sanding/squaring using a similar technique as cap cutting.. but with a saw. They are both 2 7/8” wide, vertical can 5 1/2”, ribbed 7 1/2” long Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks. ! Couldn't be happier. Ordering another one for the bapty. [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

For sure. That's the nice thing about a wood core. I can un screw it and add a different grip.[emoji106] Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

I forgot to mention. There is a wooden dowel throughout the body. It backed all the vent holes and ejection port, plus gave solid backing for anything being attached/screwed. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

The front screw on the scope rail has a drywall screw, for now.. lol planning on changing that. But I did leave the trigger out on purpose. My Bapty doesn’t have one and I’ve grown used to it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

In the late summer I stared my e11b using all my spare parts I had kicking around. It’s a bit of a Frankenstein... lol I did need to pick up a couple of parts though. So I ordered the aluminum barrel and steel n brass scope ( which is awesome! ) from war machine. And m300a mini scout light Parts I had.. War machine- aluminum folding stock Doppydoos- resin rear cap, rear lock, front sight, front tip, charging handle, grip, and switch 3D print- counter, t-tracks, extended mag and assembly Homemade- rear sight, scope rail, d ring, and trigger guard. Still need the power cylinders. Any thoughts where I can get those? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sounds good. Thanks for the help [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've been using the old e6000 as well on any parts that my flex. It's been more that a few years, and my TD is still holding together .. lol Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

Finished up the biceps to prime. Sanded down the edges to sharpen up, and based on a photo from the celebration pics, primed the right bicep with white. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

[emoji106] Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

Thanks! I didnt get a pic, but the back of those pegs got covered with bumber filler as well. Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk

Into cold water.. Lol Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk