Omaha Joe

I know, right?! 😂 Thank you, Dennis..!

Something that’s always bugged me about my Scout helmet is the shape of the lens cut-out. This was the first helmet kit I had ever assembled back before I was a member of the 501st, and at the time I was always afraid of cutting or grinding off too much. 3 years and 25 troops later, the original glue began to come loose and I always said if that happens, I’ll take it out and reshape the lens opening in an attempt to make it more screen-accurate than I originally had. Pretty happy with the results 👍

Congratulations Lancer!!

Congratulations, Jenny!! I’d been watching your build and hadn’t ever had any better advice for you than was already offered; now just happy to welcome you to the best detachment in the Legion!! Excellent work..! 👍

Hey there Arne!! From one MEPD PO to another, welcome to the Pathfinders and best of luck with your Scout build..!! To echo the sentiments of the previous replies, you are definitely in the right place when it comes to anything and everything (and then some!) Scout related!! These forums here are a goldmine…and the advice, WIPs, and vast knowledge of Scout armor should be able to answer any questions you’ll come across in your build!! And no, never underestimate the powers of Mothers when it comes to helping their grown children create these amazing costumes!! I know without the help of my Mom, my Scout would be a bundless, pouchless, codless atrocity…😂 I look forward to seeing your progress!!

…received my certificate, now I just need me a purdy frame!! 😁👍

Congratulations on your Scout approval, Delta..!!! 👍

what Dennis said, Phil, but GREAT to see you all suited up..!! You’re almost there, man, keep up the awesome work!!

Congratulations, Keith!!

Congratulations, Jill!! Well done and welcome to the ranks..!

I suppose it kinda depends which way you wanna go with it. I can’t be sure exactly, but from what I’ve seen there are a fair amount of both weathered and non-weathered Scouts out there! Personally I chose weathered over non-weathered, but I’m a huge fan of making armor looked lived-in and, to a certain extent, battle worn... I think it all comes down to personal preference, really, as either way is acceptable

Nice work, Jeremy..!! Welcome to the 501st!! 👍

that’s funny ‘cause I’ve noticed since Jedi came out on VHS that this guy’s neck shows with his “Go for help, go!” line 😂

Hey Phil, looks like you might have enough strap excess at the back to make it work by simply changing the angle at which they attach to the belt. Holding the drop boxes in place where you want them 1”-1.5” from the plastic belt, is it possible to reposition the ends of the strap toward the center of the bund so they’ll meet and end up covered by the detonator..? once I got my drop box straps positioned where I wanted them in the back, I simply riveted them to the main belt so they’d always hang at that same height on my hips, and was then also able to slide and position the buckles exactly where I wanted them

Your Scout looks great, Jeremy!! My first 501st costume I submitted straight to the GML(s). After it was approved is when I received the email from the 501st to fill out and set up that information, but like @Chopper says, it might depend on your GML. Good luck with your submission..!!

Excellent work, Conrad..!!! Congratulations!! 👍

Hey Brent!! Good to see your build comin’ along and looking forward to seeing your finished Scout..! 👍

Congratulations Nathan!! Nice work..! 👍

one thing you might consider with the cod before seam-ripping it open and stuffing it is a great idea I ‘borrowed’ from @AradunFF... where the elastic strap attaches to the cod, he suggested a triple fold of the elastic giving it more rigidity than just the single elastic layer in the area where the cod likes to crunch up you might still need to add a fabric stiffener to the inside of the cod, but even if you give this a try first and it still needs the stiffener, the tripled-up elastic should still offer extra support to avoid the bunching of the cod... (hope the photos help, my Scout’s on a mannequin at the moment)

Lookin’ good, Nathan!!! A few minor tweaks like you mentioned, but man that’s coming together somethin’ fierce..! ...and you’re not alone with the suit-up issues, not a chance in hell I could put all this on myself and make it look like it’s supposed to 😂

dang..! a nip here, a tuck there, I’m really likin’ how everything’s comin’ together for you Nathan!! the pieces of the puzzle are lookin’ great and are continuing to come together very nicely..! 👍🏼 Excellent work

I don’t know if you’re a college football fan Nathan, but this is where if I were Lee Corso I’d hold up my pencil and say, “not so fast my friend!” what about maybe hitting the area of the back armor underarm connection with a little heat flattening it out around your lats? I know that sounds like a broken record, but it just seems to me that if the back armor (shoulders and the underarm connections) has too much of a concave shape to it, maybe slightly flattening them out (essentially widening where it’s pinching) would do the trick..? Mickey already mentioned the underarm strap is where that extra space can be accounted for 🤷‍♂️

I’m gonna defer to the experts on this one, but my two cents: I’ve got the same issue with TIE Pilot armor at the moment, and I what I’m planning to do is hit the left and right shoulder portions of the back armor with the slightest bit of a heat gun and flatten that curve so it sits more flush with my shoulder. I used the same technique with some TD shoulder bells that needed widened and that worked like a charm. Is there a way that you can align the license plate piece you made with where you’ll want your shoulder bell zip tie (either forward or backward)..? ‘Cause it looks to me that if the back armor’s shoulder curves were flatter or less curved, it’d sit more flush with your shoulder on the backside and draw that gap for the bridge closed..? also I’d suggest making sure the chest and back armor are fitted, or at least measured, with the flight suit and flak vest on for a more proper fit.

...and yeah if you’re going for the “Leia Accosting” Hero with the trapezoid detail, the SC rank bars are a little thin, but I’ve seen people cut their own 4 thicker bars from a sheet of black vinyl sticker material and they look just fine

I put a bead around the inside of the mouth of the tube, then turned it over into the end cap and let gravity do its work so it would be glued from the inside, but then I went back and dropped maybe three small spots between the outside of the tube and the inside of the end cap... just make sure to check on it from time to time as it cures; parts have a tendency to slide around as the E-6000 dries, you’ll want the tube as centered as you can get it inside the end cap 👍🏼