troygordon2

Reference any of the Lancer builds. A picture is worth a thousand words, and there are lots of pics.

This was my go to. His version is slightly older than the new one (I completed mine last year TB - 22406) but the differences are very small. As to guides, check out pretty much any Lancer build thread. The Panda build will answer most of your questions though. If you've got more, feel free to ask or message me. Aside from the helmet (I made my own) I understand how daunting it can look, but it's really quite easy once you set the time to it. Enjoy! And hold off on that heat gun. I think I...I don't remember heating anything now that I think of it. If you're not used to the output on those things, you'll find yourself buying replacement parts. Wait for final assembly and the approval process and somebody will let you know if something needs to be fitted.

I've still got a couple of solid resin kits made with lightweight resins that aren't difficult to put together or finish and are pretty robust. The first thing I see on the pic you posted was the bipod, which isn't very close to what a real MG34 looks like. Like most things in the hobby, it comes down to asking yourself what you value your time at. You might spend 50 hours to save $100, but the math on that doesn't come to much unless you really like what you're spending your time on. https://www.etsy.com/LunaArmorWorks/listing/925581024/dlt-19-heavy-blaster-kit-unpainted-resin?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1628083655772

I like that SC kit. It was my first ever build, and I though the quality was excellent. If I can make a recommendation, don't forget that little strap above and below the tank. I got a bit too excited, and before I knew it I had it epoxied into place. The difference between approval and Lancer isn't all that much, swing for the fences.

I clear coat everything, but do it carefully. I've found if you really cake it on, the clear coat can actually soak the sticker, causing it to get soggy and peel up. I "dust" it a few times with clear coat, letting a layer slowly build up over them before applying solid sprays to seal it in. I've not had a problem with the vinyl decals, but have found that they can soften up too when exposed to the clear coat and get a bit more pliable. Again, I'd recommend a dusting. Also, I recommend using matte clear coat first before applying the glossy stuff. The gloss has a tendency to crinkle if on another glossy surface. If you're going with a remnant, i think the flat coat looks great by itself, if you want that clean and sharp, then hit it with the gloss to make it shine. And make sure you do it before assembly of the 2 halves, or you'll have to worry about the hinge disk, which shouldn't be shiny. And certainly don't spray that visor. Here's a pic of some recent ones I've just completed, you can see the glossy shine on the clean ones to the right with the rustoleum gloss clear coat.

Still, it's amazing to me still that people can just scale and print a new one these days. "When I started!" I'm old...

I've not done it yet with mine, but been meaning to. If you think how a respirator is held on your head, work the straps a little further to the rear, over the ear towards the back of your head where most people have a cowlick. Lower should help it keep the face up. Use some of the good old industrial strength velcro with adhesive backing, then elastic straps on that chin cup.

I hate to bash another maker, but the WTF kits have a horrible reputation. I bought the SC armor kit, made my own helmet, and had no issues putting it together and getting approved. It's a very nice kit. The WTF snow trooper helmet I was handling recently when designing my own snow trooper bucket felt very thin and was made of floppy plastic. As I've learned from many things in life, you get what you pay for. If you're willing to take advice this early on, the kits come with instructions, but I'd recommend buying extra velcro (and a HD sewing machine) and stalking people's Lancer approved builds for excellent ideas and visual references. Those instructions aren't always as idiot proof as idiots like me need. The pics people have on here as they go through their builds are priceless. And don't be afraid to ask for input and help. This is a very open and welcoming group.

Definitely reinforce that with E600 once reattached, and I'd recommend doing it on the other side. The tensile strength of the material is pretty good, but spreading the load over as much area as possible will dramatically improve the durability. I say this as a newb who just made his costume, and as a mountaineer who had the Army scare the bejeezus out of while at training in Alaska. "2 equals 1. 1 equals none." It makes sense in that weird Army sort of way. Not in the transitive property sort of way.

I posted them up here a while back. Sold some of my B grade casts, but now I know how to get them properly out and shouldn't have too many of those in the future. I hope. I prefer the solid resin and will tolerate the weight for reliability. I sound like Boris the Bullet Dodger there... Love that movie. If you want another in the future, look me up!

I sell mine on Etsy, but give people on here a cut to both help out the community which has been really awesome to learn from, and to not have to pay etsy their cut (which gets worse every year it seems). These are solid resin (barrel is supported with a filled aluminum tube inside for strength and weight reduction) with a few parts to glue in place (only the safety lever is 3d printed), and very easy to clean up. I hate print lines and don't trust PLA/ABS/Whatever to hold up to much abuse. I know there's a file on here for the scope too, which I've not made myself. https://www.etsy.com/LunaArmorWorks/listing/925581024/dlt-19-heavy-blaster-kit-unpainted-resin?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1614264666312

Yeah. The green ones are no joke. I'll look into the black, and maybe try a 1/16 inch lexan sheet too. Those worked great for the Inferno eyes that I've made, just hoped for something easier. Appreciate the input. Those sheets are really thin and floppy, but beautifully made, can have a he pattern printed on them, and will crease without flaking the reflective material off. I use them for my Titanfall helmets to good effect.

How stiff are these? I have the dark green ones, which were recommended when I first started, and to get them to warp with a heat gun takes a good long while. I was hoping for something pretty flexible off the bat. I've been using these visors for some time, and they are great, but expensive all things considered. https://www.etsy.com/listing/193364395/flexible-metallic-visor-material?ref=shop_home_active_2&crt=1

Hi all. I was curious what you all use for your visor material in the ROTJ Scout helmet and if you've found some inexpensive material I could use to help keep costs down. I've used Lexan as well as various films out there, but would LOVE to find a $3 visor kit in dark smoke instead of green like those goofy casino shade visors out there.

You might already be on it, but before sanding any residue, I would recommend wiping it down with something like WD40 first. There's nothing like damage to make me hate rushing on my projects and having to take more time and fix more stuff.

The Crow Props boots are really comfy and the leather is really nice, but the cut is really poor. I need to pack foam around the front of the ankle to keep it from creasing up and looking poor. I hope he makes some changes to the pattern, his work on the sole is excellent.

That's me! I can't wait to see how you guys finish these up. Saw one, and he did it SHARP. I still have 2 kits ready and boxed, anther almost ready to box and ship, I've just been engrossed in my DLT 19 castings lately... Stupid black paint (I say in my best Homer Simpson voice)...

I used the Panda thread BIG TIME in my build, though as stated, some of the materials have been updated (don't buy a heat iron) but you'll see what looks right and what looks wrong pretty quick: I am also a big fan of looking at the Lancer submissions. This was my go to: If you build to Lancer status, you should be fine. I can't speak to helmet builds, I made my own, but the rest is priceless information. I recommend a heavy duty sewing machine too, even if you order the soft parts separately. You'll get very familiar with sewing on this quest. Also, I'd recommend buying more velcro, both the adhesive and non-adhesive types. Don't feel bad about asking for help, we've all been the ones making our first outfit and looking for approval. Go forth and do good for the glory of the Empire!

I ordered mine off of etsy, Krypton Top is the shops name. Link should be in here. You provide exact measurements (I'd honestly add about an inch around the chest and crotch to neck line, to give more wiggle room to the undersuit), but the price was fair given how long it would have taken me to make something like this. They shipped immediately when the COVID restrictions were lifted. I recommend them and will order from them again when I need some stuff made. Excellent communication and speed. https://www.etsy.com/listing/529413725/sw-biker-scout-trooper-complete-soft?ref=yr_purchases

Holy wow. I'm impressed. It's the mechanical that I have a hard time with in Blender. But, I say I know about 5% of Blender, so it's likely in there. Shucks though, I'm coming to you for any design work like this. Well done.

Dude... Did you model that? That's beautiful!

Do you think those were CGI inputs as well? They didn't look too sharp, so I suspect the animators cut some corners to make that shot happen. The character motions didn't look normal to me.

That butt stock looks a lot like the SIG MPX collapsible stock, except it's a 1 inch toy so the single support post would make it more like that AR stabilization brace and a lot easier to make. The thing on top reminds me quite a lot of an M203 Leaf Sight (mounted backwards).

Ahso. I just got a new file for a hold out blaster I hope to finish, mold, and cast with magnets in it, so I'll bump the size up a bit. With big hands, this one looks ridiculous anyways. Thanks for the heads up.